Help lifting the car high enough

I separated the motor and had it clear and off the transmission but I can't get the car high enough.

I had the motor sitting on my motorcycle jack but I need to get the body up about 2 feet so that it will drop out of the hole.

Any ideas on a safe procedure to get the car up high enough? I bought a 10 foot section of 6x6 hemlock and was thinking of cutting 12 inch strips to build a criss-cross brace.......

Any thoughts?

Mike before I had a lift in the shop, I would set the speedster on jack stands, remove the left rear wheel, set the motor on some short 2 x 4 blocks to be able to roll the floor jack away, then rock the motor off of the blocks onto a large piece of cardboard ( refrig - oven box and a bit of sand, dirt or cat litter under that ) then carefully pull the cardboard sliding the fan shroud between the body and rear drum and out through the wheel well....
Just reverse the process to reinstall.

Have a cold beer. ~Alan

Sorta what Alan said. I jacked up the car, got a jack under the engine and got things separated. Lowered the engine, got the engine off it's own jack and slid the bugger out the back tilting the engine a bit to clear the bumper. When it's out, you'll likely figure a way to get the car up a little higher and get the engine under the bumper on it's own jack. Once done, the next time is just
a PAIA but you know how to do it.

How come the engine pull, Mike?
Gotta get the rear as high on the stands that you can then try Alan's plan. Block the front wheels to be safe.
When I did mine I raised the front on stands too, so I could get the rear high enough.

~WB

Clutch is kaput! Summer here is frikkin' amazing and I am at the point where I may try to squeeze a summer of clutch slip since I can't get then car high enough. Quebec has a good 4-5 months od speedy weather add I feel terrible that I can't change the clutch out easier.......

Right on DrClock!

Had a simular experience with a 63 bus on HWY 50 in Nevada. I had a long block under the bed in the back (I knew the engine was ready to go) Took about 3 hours, would have been faster, as I had a floor jack and it is easier to pull the engine in the bus, but shocked passers by kept stopping to offer help in getting a tow truck.

My wife spent the time with a cold drink, under an umbrella in her lawn chair reading.

Aw come on Mike... jack the thing up and unbolt everything
(beer break)
yank the motor and slide it out
( beer break)
R & I the clutch pressure plate, disc and replace the throw out bearing while too you're there, also make sure you have a $3 plastic clutch alignment tool.
(beer break)
Slide the motor back under the car and on to the jack
(beer break)
Bolt in in hook up the lines and linkage
(beer Break)

Hey way back in 1971, I did a clutch on the side of Rt 3 (NJ) a mile from the Lincoln Tunnel laying in the road dirt with hand tools, a length of 4 x 4 and a cinder black. 2-1/2 hours and my friend was on his way into NYC....You Can Do It !

Barnco Bob's car awaiting new engine.
My method is to put the motor on a piece of plywood with 1" "pipe rollers" under it. Then roll the motor into place thru the right rear wheel well.
Hope this helps!

If the rear is on jack stands and up as high as you can possibly get it, AND the engine is on a floor jack, pull it back on the jack until the fan shroud hits the lower valence, then tilt the fan shroud forward as you pull back on the jack/engine. As you pull it back the fan shroud should just clear the lower valence (you'll have to maneuver between the alternator pulley and the fan shroud - it'll be close, but it should clear).

Some people slide it sideways out a rear wheel well. Sometimes works, sometimes not...

Good luck!

Gn

Daang Mike, how many miles did you get out of that clutch?

Mike, I bought one of these at Cdn Tire when they were $100 off...
http://www.warn.com/utility/pullzall/corded.shtml

I then got an 8 ft 2x4 and an 8 ft 2x2. I lag bolted the 2x4 and the 2x2 to the garage rafters such that the 2x2 was in the center of the wider part of the 2x4 and closest to the ceiling creating an inverted "T". I then welded 2 short lengths of 1 1/2 inch channel steel to two short lengths of angle iron such that the channel steel was far enough apart to slide onto the 2x4...the angle iron had a ring welded to it so that a hook from the Pullzall would was through. I used this like a sky hook to lift the back of the car up using a chain between the engine mounts and up through the engine bay. I also used it to move the engine around too and even used it to raise the engine up to a comfortable working height. If you like I can post a couple of pics tomorrow. You could probably use just good stout eye hook above the rear of the car or build a frame above the car but the 2x4 and 2x2 worked well for me. And the Pullzall has proven useful in many other things. If you want to do that on the cheap replace the Pullzall with a Come-along (sp?)....2 ton Come alongs are less than $50.

I realized pics were required after reading my post above. First is of the bracket, second and third is of the set up. Its down from the ceiling now but picture it lag bolted to the ceiling joists with 6 or 8 inch long stout lag bolts. Bolting this setup to 4 or more joists will spread the load amoung those joists instead of just one. Worked fine for the rear of my car and the 911 engine transaxle bolted together.

Check out the KWIK LIFT under the Articles forum. It gets the car about two feet in the air and everything slides down and out no problem.
I even made two removeable 1/4 inch aluminum plates, one bolts on to the engine mounting bolts and the other bolts on to the rear of the engine (type 4 has a mount back there). Each plate has caster wheels. Just wheel the engine away.

ALAN NEXT TIME I NEED WORK DONE IM COMING TO YOUR SHOP
I LIKE THE BEER BREAKS

It does a body good to be well hydrated.

What I always did in the past was to jack the car up , pull the rear wheels off, put a "creeper" under the motor, carefully lower the car down until it was just touching the creeper, pull the motor back off the trans onto the creeper. then just jack the car back up, and roll the motor out on the creeper..the big advantage is you are not trying to balance the motor on a floor jack and its a one man operation.

Installation is the same in reverse.

Simon,
Nice tip - I like your idea better than my normal floor jack style - I will try that next time.

If it's just a cluth replacement, no need to remove the engine completely from under the car. I've been able to just lower the engine, replace the clutch then raise the engine for installation. It may be a bit tight but it can be done in most instances.

The Bob and Ernie show, these guys know what they're doing...

Maybe...

http://www.youtube.com/user/Slickfoote#p/a/u/1/uqK3qs0HzDA

Click on the see all button, there is a M-Bay video and one on CanAm race cars at Sears Point.

i did like Ernie and used the rear wheel well

thanks Dale, sort of came from necessity way back when, as I only had a floor jack to work with, no jack stands. My method combined with Ernie's would work very well.