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Help me decide on heating

H hbkmat
I plan on running some heater boxes for heating and had a few questions. It looks like vintage runs tube under the car along the side to get the heat up to the front but how do they connect to the front vents? Anyone have any pics of up in the front fender? I am also curious how they branch off and get air to the defroster. Do the defrosters work well?

I have a CMC and it has the tubing to run the air to the front and also to the defroster but I hear the cold pipes kill all the heat is this correct?

It seems like the best way to get hot air is to run it in the center tunnel. This seems like a great idea because I could put the vents in a position that I could open and close both sides while driving. I guess the only trade off is that I would not get the defroster action.

I also am curious if on the hot days you still have heat from these things blowing in or does the lever actually allow you to turn it off.
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H hbkmat
I plan on running some heater boxes for heating and had a few questions. It looks like vintage runs tube under the car along the side to get the heat up to the front but how do they connect to the front vents? Anyone have any pics of up in the front fender? I am also curious how they branch off and get air to the defroster. Do the defrosters work well?

I have a CMC and it has the tubing to run the air to the front and also to the defroster but I hear the cold pipes kill all the heat is this correct?

It seems like the best way to get hot air is to run it in the center tunnel. This seems like a great idea because I could put the vents in a position that I could open and close both sides while driving. I guess the only trade off is that I would not get the defroster action.

I also am curious if on the hot days you still have heat from these things blowing in or does the lever actually allow you to turn it off.
Troy SloanTroy Sloan Supporting Member
I have also installed a ceramic heater, but my testing and I think Alan's too, was bench testing for the most part. I did do a brief drive with the top down on a cool day and I wasn't impressed. Top up might be different, but I tend to doubt it and it does draw a significant amount of current.
Which ever way you decide to go to get the heat to the cabin, do not route it through the box tube frame, it's not large enough to handle the airflow and severly restricts it. Go direct from the heat exchangers, either through the tunnel, the body, or with flex tube up and over the rear suspension direct from the heat exchangers to the rocker panel tubes.
H hbkmat
David I like your idea a lot and it seems like an easy setup. Does your car get a lot warmer having it setup this way? My only concern is the hot air escaping before it reaches me up front.

What do you guys think about running a blower fan under the dash that would grab air from inside the cabin and shoot it into the defroster vents?
David Stroud IM Roadster DDavid Stroud IM Roadster DOttawa Canada '83 IM Soob
Tom...Aircraft Spruce sells ducting hose and ducting flanges which is what you see in the picture. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/ducting.html The heater is an aftermarket unit from Summit Racing .http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991102-1 The heater hoses are 2" dia., same as aircooled VW hose.
Mat...I had an aircooled type 1 engine last time so I cannot compare the current heat system to the old one as I now have a liquid cooled Subaru engine installed. The old system gave minimal heat and almost no defrost. Yesterday I put about 50 miles on my car. Temps were -9C when I was out and I had to turn the heat down to medium. I think a simple blower under the dash to defrost using ambient air in the cabin would work if you can get decent heat into the cabin first.

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P pauleric
The problem wiht using cabin air as defrost is the cabin air has a lot of humidity. Not good to defog a window.

- just re-read... you did say defrost. it may help for that. Ive never driven my car with a frosty windshield. but as soon as it starts to rain the cloudy windshiled is always a battle.

If you want serious heat and you can not get your stock system to provide it, a gas unit is far superior to the electric. I have done much research and the electric are limited by the voltage available to power them.

i am installing a thermostat and flaps with hopes it will boost my stock heater system capablities. It works great at 60-65 degrees outside. perfect for those cool evenings cruising back from a weekend at the beach. but i drive the car all winter long and below 50 degrees i get cold air. i also dont get the oile tep needle very far off the pin.
FM Former Member
I bypassed the frame with plastic tubing and that improved airflow greatly. Then I put stock heaters on and that really improved the heat.

Last week I was driving in 32 degree Colorado temps and was toasty warm!

Now I'd like to stop the cold air from leaking around the hand brake?

Cole
FM Former Member
Mat - the summit racing heater replaces a heater core. So unless your T1 is cooled with liquid - it won't work. The fan portion will work, but you can get a fan from other sources if that is all you need.

His is a subie power and it would work perfectly there.

The aircraft spruce shortcut is the bomb. Gives me som great ideas for ducting, especially the rigid stuff as it is probably well insulated. Would be the heck out of running it through the unprotected chilly perimeter frame on the CMC we're building...

Thanks for the ideas!

angela
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