Help, please........ windshield

I'm at the final hurdle, installing the windshield. loosely bolted in posts ( had to "shape" lower bushings because of limited room under dash) inserted windsheild assembly, and firmly bolted double screws on each side to mount to posts.......herein lies the dilema...There is a significant gap beneath the center of the window rubber 3/8" in center, then tapers off toward the ends.

It appears that the posts are laid back a tad too much. If they were about 1/2-3/4 inch more verticle, the windsheild would then lay down and the gap would go away.
Do I grind the underneath post bushings to a different angle, and possible "rubber shim the topside -backside" of the post to get them further angled forward.
Have any of you home builders run into this? What did you do?
How do I change the angle of the winshield posts, to lean them a tad more forward?


Gclarke "The desparate Vacaville Guy"

Gary
Sounds like the windshield is positioned too far back for the windshield wiper pivot holes ...should be 1/2" between the forward part of the windshield frame and the rear side of the pivot "humps" on the cowl ........What is your measurment ?

Alan, The metal extrusion that rivets(screws) to the body and forms to the windshield rubber is about 5/8 back from the wiper shaft position you mention. so I may be about 1/8 off but it shouldn't cause the posts to be laid back. It really appears that the lay-back is what causes the gap. I'm trying to figure a reasonable way to change that angle. Unless someone else has a solution.


Gclarke

Yes you are in the ball park at 5/8".An 1/8 more than the 1/2" should result in that much gap ..It's had to say w/o seeing what's going on . I've built a number of speedsters and have not run into more than an 1/8" gap ( that was resolved with a shim under the windshield post and then added a rubber finish gasket to cover the shim .
Assumimg that the top of the fender is "factory original" as well as the cowl height, odd that it would be that far off.
Email me a couple of pics to drclock@hotmail.com ...perhaps I'll be able to better advise...Alan

Only other thing I can think of is that you may have the posts rotated arond to af toward the bak of the car....

Alan, were those shims beveled ? I have put fairly thick rubber gaskets under the posts in an attempt to avoid scratching the paint by fastening the posts directly down on the paint. It does appear that those gaskets keep the front bottom of the posts up off the fender,about 1/8 to 3/16 inch.


Gclarke

Gary:

I would not grind down anything. Unless you have a tool to exactly measure angle, length, etc of the curvature. The main thing to remember is that although you want a firmly fitted windshield, it must "float" and allow for expansion/vibration.

I have a '59 CMC convertible "D". I would buy thick rubber, maybe 1/4 inch. I would then remove the windshield and cut out your new rubber to the same shape as the rubber gaskets under your posts (you do have that already there?) The rubber you buy and cut to shape should not be too hard, nor too soft. Try any home center, or old time hardware store. Using this rubber, when you tighten the posts, they will sink into the rubber. This should eliminate the cap - and insulate the glass/metal from any shocks. TAKE YOUR TIME AND TIGHTEN SLOWLY. Tighten EVENLY at each side, maby 2 ratchets turns one, then the same for the other. This is what I would do. Good luck and let us know what happens.

Joe

Gary,

If I understand you correctly, you are saying the posts on either end of the windshiled may be leaning back too far. It also sounds like you are saying the bottom of the windshield is farther away from the body in the center of the windshield than it is out towards either end. If you agree with both of these than my guess is the two large holes you drilled may be at too steep of an angle OR the angle you have at the top of the bushings is too steep.

My suggestion would be to loosen the two end bolts again and take the pressure off the top of the bushings. If the windshield lays down flat (you may ned to wiggle it just a bit to loosen things up) then you need to change the angle at the top of the bushings to better match the body the shape of the body when the bolts are loose.

If while everything is loosened up the windshield still sits too high in the center then see if there is a binding on the posts caused by the two drilled holes being at to steep of an angle. If too steep try changing the angle with a drill or Dremel.

If I recall correctly, I had to change the angle on the top of the bushings. By the way, you should have some sort of washer at the top of the bushings to tighten against.

Let us know what you find - either still a problem or you resolved it.

Bruce ,,,I think between you and Alan is where the solution lies. Although I'm in Northern California it's about 31 degrees in the garage, I think I'll wait until the morning to affect a change or two. I appreciate all the brainpower, thanks

Gclarke

Gary,

Bruce also has brought up a valid point!
After trying that process and you find that you still have the problem, here is a simple solution.

* Leaving the posts screwed into the windshield frame , unbolt the windshield post "bushings" inside oot the fender area

* Allow the windshield to pivot flush on the center of the cowl

* Tape off a 1/8" larger area than the base of the post on the top of the fender, use silicone and fill in around the "post to body gap" not allowing the siloicone to run down the hole you bored for the post in the body and let it cure fully for 2 days or so.

* Gently pull the silicone away from the posts and you'll have an exact "mold" to get an accurate height and taper measurment for a spacer that can be fabricated and shaped to the same size as the post base You can make this out of hard rubber available from a shoemaker shop, large rubber door stop, etc.

Remember....
The Titanic was built by engineers, the arc was built by an amature

At what point does the way the top fits and buckles down come into play? Or is there enough 'give and take' the way the top is constructed?
My windshield is off and I'm getting another new windshield tomorrow as the last one I bought was chipped.

There is plenty of margin when installing the top, there is extra top material that gets wrapped into the underside of the windshield header bow then trim away the excess material.