Amish, you have a Solex/Brosol PICT 34 carb on you car. Check to see if this is correct. If so there is a good site that will give detailed carb adjustment proceedures. It is a great site for much VW beetle info that will apply to your car. http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html
After messing with the idle adjustment screw (the one against the notched cam) I cant get it to idle any more... Is there a base setting so I can at least get it drivable tO a shop?
This thread started on 5/5, it is now 5/11 and still not fixed....
First off, I've never heard of such a cluster fock, from one of Kirk's cars, it sounds like this tub needs to go to someone who knows something about VW's & not a bunch of home schooled wanna be mechanics....but that's me...this is a 2012 tub for christ sake...
First off, I've never heard of such a cluster fock, from one of Kirk's cars, it sounds like this tub needs to go to someone who knows something about VW's & not a bunch of home schooled wanna be mechanics....but that's me...this is a 2012 tub for christ sake...
I have mentioned twice in this thread that this is a 2012 car. Kirk will get it fixed...
Hey now, everyones been super helpful. Without the forum members I wouldn't have realize it was vapor lock, realized the fuel line was touching the air intake and most importantly that the fuel vent line was blocked with multiple crimps. My problem is that I'm in south Florida, to send the car back to Kirk back and forth is $3000.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to find a good vw / air cooled mechanic I close to 33458 I would greatly appreciate it.
Oh ya and how to set the carb idle to a usable setting to limp to said mechanic
If anyone has any suggestions on how to find a good vw / air cooled mechanic I close to 33458 I would greatly appreciate it.
Oh ya and how to set the carb idle to a usable setting to limp to said mechanic
Got it.... There's got to be an aircooled guy there.... Great color by the way!!!
You could always fly one of the guys in. Cory? Alan?
Amish, the idle is not adjusted by the screw on the notched cam. Look at the link that I posted and it tells the proceedure to adjust a 34PICT carb. http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html#carb Call me at noon your time tomorrow and I will talk you through it.
Will,
hi amish,there is a great mechanic in pompano,his name is bruce and he owns mc nab auto,he works alone only on aircooled,his phone is 954 972 4630 ,give him a call and have the car on a flatbed moved,i am very happy with his professional knowledge,good luck.
Thank you, I'll call him on Monday..
amish, 33458 is jupiter, correct? if so, look up paul at jb bugs in jensen beach. he is in the phone book. he worked on my cmc when i lived in stuart. good luck.
bob
bob
Resolution, crud in fuel line which blocked up jets, and some air leaks. All sorted and now have a in line fuel filter. Got it all sorted out, with some great local Porsche / vw mechanics... And finally had a beautiful drive.
Got it home and just checked on it in the garage. There is a definite smell of gas in my garage. Not over powering, but noticeable. My fuel vent line is still straight down, I'm assuming this is the culprit? I'll form a loop tomorrow and make sure not to crimp it shut... Any other things I should look at?
Thank you everyone for your help.
Got it home and just checked on it in the garage. There is a definite smell of gas in my garage. Not over powering, but noticeable. My fuel vent line is still straight down, I'm assuming this is the culprit? I'll form a loop tomorrow and make sure not to crimp it shut... Any other things I should look at?
Thank you everyone for your help.
I'd Check the tank vent. Not vented in decent weather, car runs until
It won't pull fuel, then dies. Hot days, car sitting, it pressurizes the tank, pushes fuel into the carb, gas comes out the float bowl vents. Try cracking the gas cap and see if that alleviates gas smell. Could be a poor vent deal.
It won't pull fuel, then dies. Hot days, car sitting, it pressurizes the tank, pushes fuel into the carb, gas comes out the float bowl vents. Try cracking the gas cap and see if that alleviates gas smell. Could be a poor vent deal.
Old carbed cars gonna smell a little gassy--that's normal. The tank is vented to the air and the carbs are as well.
Amish:
It's technology from the 1960's with carburetors. As mentioned above, the entire fuel system is vented to the surrounding air, unlike a fuel injection system which is a closed system with a charcoal filter for a vent.
It is not unusual to smell raw gas after the car has been sitting in an enclosed space for a while after being run. That's why a lot of people used to have un-attached garages in the 1930's - 1980's.
It's technology from the 1960's with carburetors. As mentioned above, the entire fuel system is vented to the surrounding air, unlike a fuel injection system which is a closed system with a charcoal filter for a vent.
It is not unusual to smell raw gas after the car has been sitting in an enclosed space for a while after being run. That's why a lot of people used to have un-attached garages in the 1930's - 1980's.
Thanks Gordon. First time in 15 years I've appreciated having a detached garage :-)
It should help with the smell if you reestablish the looped vent line, and the more loops the better if you can find a way to fit and tie them up.
I used to like to drill a pinhole in sealed fuel filler caps.
And if you can refrain from completely filling your tank when at the pump it should help keep down the fuming by leaving expansion room in the tank.
But I do agree that with the older tech some amount of fuel smell is part of the fun in reliving the past.
If you want to fuel inject your engine and establish a complete modern system with return loop and cannister filtration system routing fuel back to the tank and keeping fumes from the atmosphere you can stop the smells, probably, but there's not much fun in all that hosing and headscratching.
If you have one of the small wire screens in your tank outlet clean it next time the tank is empty, and see if there's a fuel filter mounted underneath the fuel tank. If so that one will be the first to clog if you inadvertently fuel up at a station that's not keeping up with their filtration requirements or you happen by on the day before the tanker truck comes to fill their undergrounds and you bought the last crummy dregs-with-water-too from the bottom of the big unseen tank. Those dregs can screw you up before you go a half block down the street, sometimes.
I used to like to drill a pinhole in sealed fuel filler caps.
And if you can refrain from completely filling your tank when at the pump it should help keep down the fuming by leaving expansion room in the tank.
But I do agree that with the older tech some amount of fuel smell is part of the fun in reliving the past.
If you want to fuel inject your engine and establish a complete modern system with return loop and cannister filtration system routing fuel back to the tank and keeping fumes from the atmosphere you can stop the smells, probably, but there's not much fun in all that hosing and headscratching.
If you have one of the small wire screens in your tank outlet clean it next time the tank is empty, and see if there's a fuel filter mounted underneath the fuel tank. If so that one will be the first to clog if you inadvertently fuel up at a station that's not keeping up with their filtration requirements or you happen by on the day before the tanker truck comes to fill their undergrounds and you bought the last crummy dregs-with-water-too from the bottom of the big unseen tank. Those dregs can screw you up before you go a half block down the street, sometimes.
In thinking about the fuel smell deal I wonder if anyone here has gone to the trouble of running their tank vent line to the rear of their car, into a junkyard cannister mounted maybe in their rear wheel well and with a line from the cannister to a fitting on one of the air cleaners. It'd probably suck the fumes past the cab to the wheelwell and then burn the filtered fumes in combustion without enough effect that a carb adjustment would be needed. No more stink y car.
I'm gonna' think of maybe trying this one of these days.
I'm gonna' think of maybe trying this one of these days.
I've done that on a couple of cars, Ken.
It is a $5 solution to the problem. It works very well. The best u-pull donor choices are small displacement carbureted engines, e.g. older hondas, Geos, etc. Snag the mounting bracket while you're there. Maybe you'll use it, maybe you'll just use it as a pattern.
angela
It is a $5 solution to the problem. It works very well. The best u-pull donor choices are small displacement carbureted engines, e.g. older hondas, Geos, etc. Snag the mounting bracket while you're there. Maybe you'll use it, maybe you'll just use it as a pattern.
angela
In the venting system just described, is there any need for a one-way "valve/filter" between the cannister and air cleaner? ...just curious.
SS
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