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My speedster came with the rear tin where the heater hoses go into, but it didn't have any tin to seperate the cylinders from the exhaust. Therefore, there is a gap (See pic, white arrows point to it) arond the sides that allows the exhaust heat to get recirculated back into the engine compartment making the engine run hot. Does anyone recommend how to easily solve this problem? Are there any pre-manufactured 'tin kits' to address this? How have others done it? My engine is a 1600CC Type 1 (I was told) with Dual Del Orto Carbs.
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My speedster came with the rear tin where the heater hoses go into, but it didn't have any tin to seperate the cylinders from the exhaust. Therefore, there is a gap (See pic, white arrows point to it) arond the sides that allows the exhaust heat to get recirculated back into the engine compartment making the engine run hot. Does anyone recommend how to easily solve this problem? Are there any pre-manufactured 'tin kits' to address this? How have others done it? My engine is a 1600CC Type 1 (I was told) with Dual Del Orto Carbs.

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  • Porsche Engine Gap
Bruce, I've moved to Richmond, VA now. The car has been at the folks house in Ft. Myers for two years, but I'm bringing it back up in a couple of weeks. If I can get the heat problem worked out I will bring it to the Carlisle show. Keep me posted of any other get togethers. Thanks for all of your help guys!

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  • Porsche 1
Greg:

I have a CMC also and I made up a set of engine heat shields out of HVAC air duct sheetmetal (lots of HVAC shops will give you a scrap piece of this sheetmetal - just drive your speedy over there and tell them what you're trying to do). I think I still have some pictures of them in the photo section under nichols1

I have made up paper templates to cut out the real things, which fit in like they're custom made, and then seal everything with regular door weatherstrip available from Lowes or Home Depot. They work great!

I'm in the South this coming week but will be heading back home in a week and can run off a pair of full-size templates and send them to you for the cost of postage and a mailing envelope ($5.00)

If you're interested, email me direct and we can swap addresses and I'll get them out to you.

Gordon
One of the "Speedstah Guys" from Rhode Island
Heat shields are a good thing. I've built several from sheet aluminum for my type 4. One shield of note was made to isolate the BAS 4-1 header from both the engine and from the rear fiberglass valance panel. Before the shield, the fibergalss was so hot you could not even touch it. After the shield, you can put your fingers right on the fiberglass any time. Just maintain as large an air gap as room allows whereever you install a shield.

fabrukatin' is haf the fuhn!
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