Help...can anyone identify what I have here

Rough ride is result of the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks.  Replace with oil filled and you'll get a smoother ride.  Those are adjustable rear spring plates.  Makes it easy to adjust rear ride height. Looks like rear sway bar but a cobbled mounting bracket - bet that contributes to hard ride too.

You should be able to buy replacement pads by info on back - suspect 914?

Thanks very much Wolfgang.  I see the resemblance to your picture for the caliper.  Do you know anything about getting the pistons back in so i can replace the pads??

Thanks also for the shock advice.  I wondered about them...

Regards,

Frank

What Wolfgang said; the KYB's are more for off-road applications. Lots of people like the KYB GR2 low pressure gas shocks http://vwparts.aircooled.net/K...rber-p/kyb343144.htm on the back of their VW's as a performance upgrade over a straight oil filled shock. And those look like 914 calipers to me as well. If you can't get the pistons to move back in then the calipers may need to be rebuilt. Al 

Thanks Al.  I read a post from awhile ago and the idea of rotating the piston while trying to push it in came up.  Does that ring any bells?  Mine are stuck and won't budge.

Thanks,

Frank

Give it a shot, Frank; you've got nothing to lose at this point. I'd never heard of that trick before. Let us know how it works...Al

PS- check to make sure there's freeplay at the pedal (and there's not pressure on the system when the pedal's not pressed).

Frank-

On my Wide 5 kit (with Varga calipers), the e-brake works by the piston threading in (and out). But here's the trick-- you have to have the brake line fitting cracked to thread it in, and then you have to bleed the brake when you are finished. Every time I try to remember (and I mean EVERY single time), I forget the "crack-the-brake-line" part, and end up trying in vain to thread that dude in. Once it's pushed out, you need to thread it to get it back, at least on mine.

Your caliper looks a bit different than mine, but I'd bet a donut it's the same principle. It's stupid, but that's how it works.

Stan,

When you advise to "crack the brake line fitting" do you mean untighten by a few threads to relieve pressure?

Frank- All of the rotated types of piston I've ever encountered had some means of locating the tool on the piston i.e a groove or slot or two holes where you engage the tool to the piston so it can be screwed back in.

Stan, couldn't you relieve pressure by loosening the bleeder fitting?

Yes. It's still a good idea to bleed 'em.

On the stuck piston - they tend to rust in a stuck position.  I use those wood Jorgensen C clamps used for wood working to compress but if really rusted it might not work.  Could remove pads and press on the brake petal and see if hydraulic pressure pushes them out. They can be rebuilt once piston is out - there is a kit but if bore is corroded or piston really rusty not worth effort.  The old calipers can be used for core exchange.  Compared to VW front calipers - 914 rears are costly and probably harder to find.  

I've actually not seen 914 rear calipers used in a T1 rear kit.  Know there are ways to make them work but it takes custom machining.  Anyone know of such a kit?

On my Yota 4Runner I found stuck one when replacing pads.  Thought I'd gotten it unstuck but a few months later it stuck with pad against rotor - got very hot but fortunately not far from home.  Advance Auto had those in stock for $75 with exchange core.

Take a better picture of the pipe hanger strap used to hold the rear sway bar.  Might be a better solution for it.

Directions to rebuild calipers (easier to exchange for rebuilt ones though)-

http://www.pelicanparts.com/te..._caliper_rebuild.htm

The 944 rear brake conversion to IRS is pretty straight forward, I was going to do this myself but my donor car was crushed at the local Pick N Pull before I could get to it. Here is a very informative tutorial on the how to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9VkS3SWuH4

Yeah but with 944/924 bits you end up with 5 bolt pattern.  Does it increase the rear track over the T1 OEM stuff?

I was after the 5x130 pattern and the numbers I had for rear track were 10mm but could be as much as 22mm depending on parts.

Think I found the 914 to T1 kit - for a rather reasonable $264 (just price a rear 914 caliper alone!). Has anyone used this kit - variety of bolt patterns available.  Now just needs to see what it add to IRS rear stance!

The unique rear 1 piece brake rotor was redesigned for VW bug and beetle from the original Porsche 914 rear disc brakes. Combined with the braking power of disc brake calipers, this kit makes replacement pads, calipers and rotors affordable and readily available. All kits come complete with rotors, calipers, disc brake pads, mounting brackets, emergency brake cables, hoses, seals and hardware.

http://www.kustom1warehouse.ne...cbrakekitwebrake.htm

Please post what you find out.

I can't tolerate any increase in track width.

Of course, I have learned that as you are building your car the continuing quest to improve things really slows down your progress.

Can you make a prediction when you will be driving your car?