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My 1600 has suddenly developed a horrible hesitation. I drove it around town and on the freeway all day one day and then the next weekend i damn near got kilt while trying to get out of the driveway. It will near die when taking off. It will finally catch and does well until you try again.
I added fuel treatment, etc., but to no avail. It has a 2 bbl. solex that is three months old. Fuel filter is newer.
Help,

GG
1958 Intermeccanica(Convertible D)
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My 1600 has suddenly developed a horrible hesitation. I drove it around town and on the freeway all day one day and then the next weekend i damn near got kilt while trying to get out of the driveway. It will near die when taking off. It will finally catch and does well until you try again.
I added fuel treatment, etc., but to no avail. It has a 2 bbl. solex that is three months old. Fuel filter is newer.
Help,

GG
First off, is it still idling OK?

If it's now idling somewhat slower than you're used to, it could mean that the distributor has slipped (loose clamp) and has become retarded (the spark, that is, NOT the intelligence of your disti).

If the disti's clamped down tight and hasn't moved, then it would point towards fuel starvation, often caused by a clogged fuel filter.

Check those and post back.

Hmmm, I experienced the same exact problem this weekend. I have dual 40mm webers. the car runs fine on the highway. when I try to accelerate from a dead stop the car bucks and dies. Very strange considering I had the carbs rebuilt 8 months ago. surely they haven't gummed up that much? I also put fresh fuel in the tank. If I really rev up the gas it will go.
The "wash car/runs badly" thing is due to the way the decklid funnels water into dual carbs. You wind up with water going into your air filtes and thence to the top of your floats (on Webers, at least) where it finds its way in. In a bad case it requires removal and cleaning of the carbs, plus a bottle or two of Dry Gas to cure the problem. It may also wash in some crud from the air filters, requiring that you blow out all the little passages and jets. Ask me how I know.
FYI, for the most part, dirt in the idle jets doesn't come from the fuel supply but from the base of the air cleaner and the top of the carb's near the jet stacks. Keep it clean and that will go a long ways towards clean idle jets.

Also, in most cases, clogged idle jets will cause hesitation but will also cause backfiring. Once you're past 3,000-3,500 RPM's it usually stops until your RPM's lower into that range. (Idle jets provide most of the fuel up to the 3,500 RPM range)

If you just had them rebuilt, then a lot of things can be wrong. They could have a damaged accelerator pump, accelerator pumps not adjusted to give extra fuel on acceleration, out of tune carb's (1 carb opening before the other) non synchronized carb's (1 pulling more air that than the other) clogged jet ports to include mains and idle jets and the list goes on and on.

Not likely but possible, check and see if you have a point eliminator.

If you do, remove it from the base of the distributor, clean the bottom of the electronic unit with fine steel wool or ultra fine sand paper. Clean the base of the distributor with the same cleaning product. Attach the module to the base of the distributor and use Loctite on the screw. Many times, a poor ground can cause the problems you're experiencing.

Also possible but not probable, bad or wet spark plugs, bad or wet spark plug wires, bad coil.
I forgot one of the items that seemed to make a big difference on my car - the float level. The carb rebuild may have included new floats, which are highly likely NOT to be adjusted to the correct level. Get the Tomlinson book and Webers and follow its instructions.

ACK: Just reread your first post saying you have a Solex. Ignore everything I've said. My wife does, so I'm used to it ;-)
On my 911 powered IM it was too much fuel from the accelerator pump that caused hesitation when pressing on the throttle. Too much raw fuel dumped in will in effect put out the fire, momentarily, then it will kick it again.

If it happens any time you stomp on it, even when actually moving too, then could be too much fuel. I bought a little measuring vial for Webers and you hold it under the accelerator jet and then actuate the pump to measure the volume then compare to specs and adjust till you get the right volume out of all barrels. Something like that, been while.
thanks, for the good info everyone. I guess the really strange thing is when I first got the car from the shop It ran great and I did a 4o mile drive. The car sat for a while, but I always make sure to atleast start it once a week and let it get hot to keep everything lubed up and working. This past sunday was the first time I had taken the car out for any real lengthy drive maybe 20 miles. In the past I have only driven a couple of miles with no problems. I noticed the tach freaked out and stayed pegged at 3000rpm while the engine idled normal. I will check on some of the things you guys suggested and check back.

Starting to think about converting to single carb for a lot less hassel.

thanks.
I'm rather enjoying this...There is so much that could be wrong, I simply checked m'self into the psyce ward for a little time-off while y'all fixed it.
I have pulled the tank, used screws to shake, rattle, and roll the tank with solvent... my girlfriend left 'cause I was paying too much attention to the car [she actually thought I was dancing with it, and one nosey neighbor mentioned the screws], and am waiting on the POR-15.
Filter in the eng. compartment was clean...The one prior to the electric pump was full.
I haven't cranked it, so I was waiting to thank everyone, but I will do that now.

Regards,

GG

PS...Henry just informed me that I have IM #2...Anyone know who has #1?
g
George, is your car's IM# "IM12002"? My car was built in 86 and there's a small alum plate on the dash that says IM12079. But under the carpet in the front truck, there's a hole in the fiberglass and from there you can see another set of numbers that look to be serial numbers stamped into a piece of metal. My car is one of the tube frames so I'm not sure what that set of numbers is?

Brian
I think, like 007, the others have been retired :-{))))!
According to IM, the first five were purchased as "coaches" ie), no engines, interiors, etc., by one person (Dana ?) in L.A. They were, evidently, resold, and mine was in he Movie: The Osterman Weekend and then parked in th open and neglected.
I wanted to have one that I could screw-up on my own and am trying with great vigor!
The 1600 is in a '79 suoer beetle cab. that I picked up for nuttin' and have spent $4K+ and hope to drive around for a while 'till I finish the tub, which I will then drive for a while...I work in all points of Houston, so, I have A/Cd both and need it as a 'fatboy'. My GF will drive the VW (I'm not sure I can trust her in the Speedie, as she would take it to the track.
I'll post pics as soon as I have some thing that is anywhere those that can come close to those I have seen on the site.
Thanks and regards,
GG
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