Skip to main content

I just completed the installation of the Hex ("Cross")bar (21 1/8" long) from CB Performance, using the same placement of the throttle cable and carburetor throttle arms as was on the old hex bar. I used new ball studs and springs, and liberally greased them. I left 1/8" end play at each end of the installed bar.

The car had been running roughly (no backfiring) prior to the installation, but I attributed this to the large amount of horizontal play in the worn old hex bar. Following George Browns' instructions from the SOC Library articles, I checked to see that the throttle plates ("butterflies") were parallel to the carburetor bore lines at full throttle. Interestingly, the plates were properly vertical on the 44 IDF on the driver's side, but the one on the passenger side was about 1/3 open.

George said that the throttle actuating rods (the ones that extend from the throttle arms to the carburetor should be perpendicular to the hex-bar. Mine were oriented originally at about 30 degrees in relation to the hex-bar. Questions" (1) Do the actuating rods have to be perpendicular to the hex-bar; if so, there will be some rather major adjusting on my part to do this. (2) To get the butterflies all oriented the same way at full throttle, I assume that the actuating rods are the ones that need adjusting, rather than sliding the throttle rods back/forth on the hex bar. Is this correct?
(3) Is there an easier way to keep the throttle open while making these adjustments, other than having a helper keep his or her foot on the accellerator pedal? Remember, I have never done this before.

George explained that once the butterflies are all parallel to each other, idle sync can be fine-tuned with the actuating bar adjustment.

Barry

 

Former owner Vintage Suby Spyder

1967 Chevy C10 pickup

'38 Chevy coupe; Corvette LS-6 engine; 6-speed Tremec transmission, plus other goodies

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I just completed the installation of the Hex ("Cross")bar (21 1/8" long) from CB Performance, using the same placement of the throttle cable and carburetor throttle arms as was on the old hex bar. I used new ball studs and springs, and liberally greased them. I left 1/8" end play at each end of the installed bar.

The car had been running roughly (no backfiring) prior to the installation, but I attributed this to the large amount of horizontal play in the worn old hex bar. Following George Browns' instructions from the SOC Library articles, I checked to see that the throttle plates ("butterflies") were parallel to the carburetor bore lines at full throttle. Interestingly, the plates were properly vertical on the 44 IDF on the driver's side, but the one on the passenger side was about 1/3 open.

George said that the throttle actuating rods (the ones that extend from the throttle arms to the carburetor should be perpendicular to the hex-bar. Mine were oriented originally at about 30 degrees in relation to the hex-bar. Questions" (1) Do the actuating rods have to be perpendicular to the hex-bar; if so, there will be some rather major adjusting on my part to do this. (2) To get the butterflies all oriented the same way at full throttle, I assume that the actuating rods are the ones that need adjusting, rather than sliding the throttle rods back/forth on the hex bar. Is this correct?
(3) Is there an easier way to keep the throttle open while making these adjustments, other than having a helper keep his or her foot on the accellerator pedal? Remember, I have never done this before.

George explained that once the butterflies are all parallel to each other, idle sync can be fine-tuned with the actuating bar adjustment.
Answer to my own questions: I moved the throttle rods more to the ends of the hex bar, so that the actuating rods were vertical (perpendicular to the hex bar). One of the rods was removed, and the carbs checked for sync. The actuating rod was replaced and adjusted so that it stopped at the idle screw. Both screws were checked to see that the idle stops hit the screws on both sides at the same time. Started the car and it runs flawlessly. No more backfiring (using #50 idle jets and .145 mains) and no more sputtering. The car runs like new now. I had already checked the resistance in the spark plug wires, checked the plugs for proper gap (.024" for my car), then replaced the plugs using a product called "Never-seez." You put a small amount of this paste on sparkplug threads, or any other nut-bolt arrangements where you don't want to have to use a breaker bar to remove the bolt or nut.

The reason for the sputtering was that the carbs were not pulling at the same time, due to the actuating rods not opening both IDF 44s at the same time. I.e., one was pulling against the other. CB Performance no longer makes the soft hexes...steel only, now.

So....as George Brown pointed out, check the hex bars for horizontal play (side-to-side, that is), then change to a new hex bar as needed. Use new end bolts (the ones that insert into the hex bar) and get them well-greased before putting the hex bar into its proper place (with about 1/8" end-to-end play). George's spirit lives in those great articles in the knowledge section.
AMEN, Mike. And thanks for the compliment, Jim. I learned a lot about how to sync the carbs and adjust the whole hexbar-associated complex from Mark Patty, the local "guru" (he denies it, of course,
being the humble (but very knowledgable) guy that he is.) We did the whole thing over a bottle of moderately good red wine. Maybe that's the whole secret: never tune the engine while entirely sober. Anyway, I hope my ramblings help someone else who has been driven nuts with backfiring/sputtering and the like.
Rick, sounds good to me. I'll bring some of the $2.99 Forestville merlot Mark and I had yesterday, and we'll just spend the afternoon teasing Paul and philosophizing about the grape. Maybe there is an inverse proportion having to do with the price of the wine vs. the success of the troubleshooting. If we had had a $35/bottle of some of the better stuff, the engine would probably have fallen out. BTW, the car now runs like two scalded dogs. And also, BTW, do you have any information on your future Speedster?
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×