Hi...and help.

I'm not new to this site - I've been lurking for months...and four days ago, a good friend decided to automotively move on; his speedster is now my speedster. It's a 2000 VS; I'll post pics when I get some good ones. I've done 125 miles in the car already, and I love it. As much as I can, I'll do a search for specific info - but I have a few questions that I could use some help with. First - anyone know a really good mechanic in Chicago? Second: at 2500 rpm, I get a sound that very much resembles a piece of tin being rattled/flapped. It's as loud as the exhaust, before it disappears at 3000 rpm. Best as I can trace it, it sounds like it's coming from inside the doghouse (did I use the right term?). I assume this is the doghouse that was normally supplied with the engine...it has part of a label on top of it that reads "Made In Tai..." How much should I worry (as in - don't drive until you find and fix it?)This leads me to question #3; the original engine ordered, was a 1776; according to my friend, it "blew up". How/when/why escapes his memory. Kirk sent him a replacement...and in my friend's words, he was told "he was sent the 80 hp one, instead of the 75 hp one, as a bonus." Any clue as to what I might have? It's running a single carb. Because I have it in a semi-dark public garage and I need to buy a flashlight, I can't tell what carb it is - but it ain't a Weber. Any ideas? Thanks!

Where are you located?

Joe S

Joe - I'm around Augusta/Western.

Dennis, Joe's a genius.
I'm not. My two cents; it's probably one of two things. The fan, which moves at more or less the same speed as the belt on your alternator (or generator) could be wearing itself out at its most protrusive points, or you might have a piece of a metal flange in the shroud's ductwork not fastened to the shroud as well as it could be. In either case, you'd hear the metallic equivalent of a playing card in a bicycle spoke.
Lucky for you, Joe's practically a neighbor.

Hopefully he's not hearing pre-ignition (pinging). Should be pretty easy to fix if that is it as the compression is probably not real high on this engine. Timing advanced or advance coming on too quickly.

angela

I lived at 2535 w. Augusta for about 5yrs. I'm south now. One of these days I can come by and help get you sorted.

Finding a VW tech is a little hard in Chicago but post it on
www.harshwintersvw.com They are a Chicagoland aircooled VW club.

My name is Bryan.

Guys...thanks for the ideas! Best I can, I'll check them all out - and in addition, check out the harshwinters site. B - I'm livin' about 1/2 blk from where you used to live...I'm on the corner of Campbell/Walton. Now...anyone here got a clue as to what engine I have??

either a 1776 or a 1914cc - likely

1776 uses 90.5mm cylinders / pistons
1835 uses 92.0mm cylinders / pistons
1914 uses 94.0mm cylinders / pistons

all use the basic (stock) crank (69mm)

the 1835 is not recommended as the cylinder walls are too thin for good heat dissipation.

as for the carb - my guess is either stock or a single dellorto type. a picture would be the fastest way to tell. without it - it's just a guessing game.

welcome BTW :)

It's taken forever to get to the point where the engine's going to be dropped and the mysterious noise in the shroud is discovered. I'll post the find, soon's I find it. One last question: Should I think of replacing the existing shroud - assuming it won't need replacing because of some failure. Is this (the shroud that comes with my Mexican engine) the "best" one to have? I really want cooling concerns to be minimized. And, oh - the carb's from sunny Brazil. Thanks!

Dennis; in all probability you have a 1915 cc engine in there. I ordered my car with a 1776 and later found out Kirk put in a 1915; he told me that he did because he was having problems with the 1776's at ther moment (wonder why they would be different from anything else since they all start with the same basic VW Mexico longblock). Anyway, you're totally undercarbed if you have a singel Solex 34 (stock). As of late the Solex Kadron 40 also comes in a single version although the dual kits are more common.

With respect to the fan housing I suggest getting the OEM VW shroud with the flaps and thermostat system and original cylinder tin; especially important in where you live as the thermostat/flap system helps the engine warm up correctly. You can get those parts in either the classifieds at The Samba.com or on salvage yards. I found all the tin at http://www.howardvw.com/

"I've done 125 miles in the car already, and I love it."

"Because I have it in a semi-dark public garage and I need to buy a flashlight"



I have an idea . . . look at the motor outside . . . then take a pic and post it here.

I just remembered I had taken a few pictures for insurance purposes - I don't know/think the engine compartment photo is all too detailed, but what the heck...I can't seem to figure out how to upload to a post here, just yet...but the pictures are in my folder in the Photos section under "french".

And insurance? I haven't found them mentioned, here - but if anyone's looking, they might want to get in touch with American Modern Home Insurance Company in Cincinnati, 1-800-543-2644. I'm 64, live in the inner city (Chicago), have a clean driving record, and they quoted me $141 a year. I opted to increase my est. annual mileage to 3K - that jumped me to $163, annually. For what it's worth, the liability limits on the policy are $500K. Pretty good deal, I thought.

http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=french&f=Engine%2Ejpg

Two things. first off. move that fuel filter. that is a receipe for a flamed up speedster. it's practically sitting on the intake manifold.

move it to under the gas tank.

Second - with a carb that small (stock 34-pict 3) that is very doubtful that it is a 1776 or a 1914. i'd guess a stock 1600 DP.

hope that helps.

Paul - thanks for spotting that fuel filter! I think it qualifies as my Tip Of A Lifetime. Only other way I woulda known about it,I hate to think of...

Dennis , Email me your phone number in the near future. If the car is running bring it down to my neck of the woods. I can give it a once over.
Joe

Just as a quick check-see, reach in behind the fan shroud in the area behind the alternator. Slide your hand down until you reach the cooling fan and try to move it in and out/back and forth. Jostle it around as best that you can just to see if it's tight.

Of course, it might seem tight and really not be, but if it's really lose, you'll be able to tell.

Maybe . . . ?

(be sure to do this without the car running) :P

YIKES ! ! !

Sorry . . .

Step One: Turn off engine.

At shows, many times I come across a fuel filter perched just above the distributor ...I get like the local Fire Marshal.."Move that filter before it's too late"

The wheels of progress haven't been turning at all, here, 'cept...I did do a reach-around; the fan can be slid back/forth enough to know it ain't tight. The fix is in, for next week. And that fuel filter? It wasn't NEAR the exhaust manifold; it was ON it. How it didn't do a meltdown, I don't know. (Joe - did you get my email?) Thanks again, everyone, for taking time with me - and for the huge knowledge base you all continue to provide here.

you mean intake manifold. ;-)

Yep. I meant INTAKE manifold. Damn. The engine's in the back, right?

you did check your turn signal fluid while you were under the hood right?

:P

Of course. I also drained all that old oily stuff that collects at the bottom of the engine. I can't imagine where that stuff comes from. How often should I change the antifreeze?

Every time you replace the muffler bearings

my 2cents, replace the bearing in the alternater, check the fan, where the it bolts on,any funky wear, replace with balance fan, check alt/strap. I had a fan blow up , I was lucky could of been UGLY. Cabanaboy~ what you waiting for!!

After lo, these many weeks...it looks like the engine noise was due to some fine Taiwanese engineering and economics. Surprisingly, the engine tin was broken, ill-fitting and loose. Imagine that. Soon's I can locate the RIGHT tin (anybody...?)I'll post the status. Thanks for all the suggestions!

What "tin" is broken/needs replacing? I have a couple of engines broken down to the cases, may be able to find what you're looking for.

Dennis:

Other than getting something gratis from TC (and he's wonderful at that with quite a number of people on here) you might get involved with the harshwintervw folks and ask around there for something local from a salvage yard or from someone's garage stash.

Since you'll be pulling the fan shroud anyway (and sounds like you'll be tossing it - that's good!) try to find a 1971 or newer, GERMAN fan shroud, and make sure that all of the air vanes are installed and working. If you flip the shroud upside down there should be four little (2" X 4") flappers at the bottom, all connected with a flat actuator across the back of the shroud. On the driver's side, the outermost flapper (air vane) has a place where a rod attaches which goes between the cylinders and attaches to a thermostat (looks like a bellows about 2" X 2") which mounts just below the driver's side cylinders on a special bracket. ALL that stuff is important, but a lot of folks think they know better and pull them all out and then the engine runs hot.

Other things you should get at the same time:

Get the 1971 or newer VW Oil Cooling Tower (looks like a little radiator that stands upright) - it goes inside the slightly larger fan shroud you just bought. You'll also need some new VW oil cooler "O"-rings to install it (takes about 15 minutes to install if the fan shround is already off).

Get the 1971 or newer Cooling Fan (it's slightly larger and cools better. Since, at 64 you're a duffer like me, you probably won't need a welded and balanced one (they're better for higher RPMs) so a stock VW fan is fine.

Please stay away from Asian reproduction parts for cooling - if you go with original German cooling tins and parts it will run cooler (and last longer).

Dennis, There is a guy in Seward ,IL which is SW of Rockford. He most likely will have one. Follow this link on Samba http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=484674
His advertiser name is "Rustbug". You can email him from that link. If you need anything welded bring it down to my neck of the woods.

Southside Joe

Whew. As always, the help here is humbling, gratifying and most welcome. As it stands, (or sits?) I've passed this all on to the good guy who's doing the work. I'm some months away from being able to get the speedster into a garage where I can break out the tools, get my hands dirty and render the car totally inoperable. I don't have the final details on exactly what's going on with the tin, and he's already been searching for pieces; with all that's here, I should be on the road in a week. And, Joe - I WILL be stoppin' by. Hopefully, I won't be wearing my knit cap and a double layer of shirts when it happens.

Dennis, I'll be at the VW show in Crystal Lake Sept 16 held by NIVA. I believe there is a swap area also. Come on up if yu are free that day. Lets hope it doesn't rain.

Dennis,

Here's one for sale. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=490687
What I did when I restored mine, was to clean it up with a heavy duty degreaser, allow to completely dry, then apply Ospho rust treatment to all seams, let the Ospho dry for a couple of days, then media blast and have it powder coated.

That one sounds like a good deal.

Ok...the tin saga is drawing to a close. The noises were a team effort; broken tin, ill-fitting tin and missing bolts/loose bolts
- quality takes a holiday; PLUS a breaking/finally broke alternator strap.It's nice to hear nothin' but exhaust noises.
On another note...I also had a sway bar and a rear camber compensator installed - it literally transformed the car.
I haven't installed OEM German tin just yet - with just mere weeks of driving weather left and an idea that a different engine is in my future - I'm makin' do.
And on yet another note - go see Joe Soltis' car sometime. Very, very well done. Very.