Hiem Joints Needed!

Are we talking hexbar/carb linkage fixing? Post a couple of detailed photos of your linkage, and I'll help you get the right stuff. I got mine from a little race shop near Elmira NY for about $5 each.

 

The inside diameter of most bars is 5/16", so most of us got that size, and either 5/16" diameter steel rod, or a bolt with a smooth shank and cut the head off, tap and drill hexbar. Gordon slid/glued his in, then drilled through both and installed a roll pin. I just sanded them to rough the ends and used JB weld. Whatever floats your boat.

 

Most Speedsters have the bar low and close to the air filter base, and need to use a male threaded heim with a nut underneath. My car had the hexbar higher, so I used female-threaded joints and ran a bolt in from the bottom. It all depends on how it is set up.

 

Don't forget some spacers/washers/springs to keep the bar centered(and to prevent it falling out!). You want very short springs to take up the expansion of the motor but not bind when cold.

FYI

"Iron Butt" Crosby has one of my kits (unused) but I think he's holding it for the Carlisle Raffle.

 

I don't have anything made up, so I'll call Monday morning for heim pricing and dialog you with a kit price.  I use some pretty high quality heim joints but last time I bought some the price had risen.  Now, with a stronger dollar, they might have come down.  I source them from an indutrial supplier who deals with manufacturers.

 

The kit includes the male-threaded Heims, end pins for the hex bar, sets of washers and locknuts, and illustrated installation instructions.

 

Stay tuned.

First pic needs the future upgrade.

2nd is the sticky joint on the vertical heim rod.

And Bill has hit on reason #15 why I'm over the hex-bar linkage, heim-joint upgrade or no. The LH/RH heims on the linkage itself are junk. Really truly junk. I've got a coffee can full of them.

 

I'm crossing my fingers on the sync-link.

Sync Link = perfection

What Terry said X2 

I'm kinda fond of my CSP bell crank linkage.

Just remember to lube it twice a season.

What the heck is a sync-link??  I must have missed something.

It looks like this. It is VERY nice, but about 300 beans. Too much for what it is(my 2 centavos). One cable through the shroud or wherever it comes from, around the left carb, then to the right carb with the other cable you see there, or maybe it is one piece, I don't remember. Either way, it eliminates any geometry or engine-expansion issues.

I'd buy the sync-link if they made a set for the Kadrons.

You don't really need it with Kadrons. Mine used to run perfect with standard linkage.

hehehe - there are so many things I've purchased that I don't 'need'.

I kid... I kid!

What are you talking about? All the mods you've done to your car have been essential...

On those heim joints used on the links to the throttle actuators - If someone can tell me the thread type (English or Metric), the size and the thead pitch, I can see if I can get some better quality ones and make them available.  I know half of them are left-hand thread ( usually making them more expensive), but the sizes are the same.

I needed every mod I've made to my car over eight (almost nine) years more than I needed the money I paid to do them.

 

Really.  I'm certain I did.

Not positive, but I think the Sync-Link is what Teby gas on his Speedy.  On his car, it is all behind the fan shroud,  like an original.  I drove it and it is very nice!

I have a 356 behind the shroud linkage. I also have the shroud and a REAL 356 generator, and a factory bypass oil filter. I'm not using any of it. It might be for sale.

 

Gordon, the ones I have(CB) are English-American thread, 10-32 LH and RH, as are the ball ends with the stud. I just checked.

 

Here you go, don't know how precision these are: LH:http://www.speedwaymotors.com/...with-Stud,10991.html

 

RH:http://www.speedwaymotors.com/...with-Stud,32217.html

 

I can't compete with the pricing from Summit on those links, so I suggest folks get them from Summit.  By the time I add shipping and all, there wouldn't be any difference between us.

 

I would also encourage people to check all of the various Heim joints that they have for looseness during their regular, Spring maintenance and replace as needed.  Even if you lube them a couple of times each season, they won't last forever and will eventually start to be loose.

 

Bill, I sent you a dialog on Hex bar Heim joint pricing and availability.