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Work continues on my 1991 CMC project. I have begun to re-fit the door and hood since I have grafted the new fender from Henry at Intermeccanica. I have hit one stumbling block, and I seem to be having a brain freeze. The door is tilted out at the top by about 3/8". Now I can figure out left to right adjustment, as well as up and down, and shimming out, but how do I pull the top of the door in? The bottom fits well, and the left and right sides do too, but the top, both left and right, tilt out. Suggestions? Thanks in advance.
1957 CMC(Speedster)
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Work continues on my 1991 CMC project. I have begun to re-fit the door and hood since I have grafted the new fender from Henry at Intermeccanica. I have hit one stumbling block, and I seem to be having a brain freeze. The door is tilted out at the top by about 3/8". Now I can figure out left to right adjustment, as well as up and down, and shimming out, but how do I pull the top of the door in? The bottom fits well, and the left and right sides do too, but the top, both left and right, tilt out. Suggestions? Thanks in advance.
There is no striker or door hardware in yet, just the raw door. The bottom sill closes right to where it is supposed to, but the door slowly tilts outward as it goes up, reaching its maximum outward tilt of about 3/8" at the top. The tilt is even from the front to the back of the foor. I just don't know how to pull that hinge inward.
I had to adjust and shim the door hinges on my TR6 when I did the body restoration, to get an even fit horizontally and vertically. I never did get rid of the gap at the top of the door where it meets the rear of the car, but that was a TR6 characteristic.

Shimming will move the door in or out from the body. I made up some thin shims from sheet steel. I imagine you could use aluminum on a fibreglass car. If the top of the door is 'proud' (an old body work term), and if shimming the bottom hinge brings the entire door out too far, can you shave/thin the top hinge?
I really can't shim the top hinge because that will just bring the top of the door out further correct? Shaving the hinges is a possibility, but the screw holes are tapered and I am afraid of weakening the hinge. Was thinking of possibly taking the hinge apart and heating and bending the door side, but that seemed rather drastic. Maybe I don't have a brain freeze here and the obvious answer is a drastic modification. I just wanted to be sure before I did it.
Well I wasn't happy with the fit of the back edge of the door, and one thing lead to another this evening....
In between playing some hoop with my 9 year old son, I decided to cut a pie shaped sliver out of the door catch end (opposite of the hinge side), put a clamp on the top of the door to bring it in, and re-fiberglassed the section.
The top of the door in the front fits very well, but I just could not get the top of the back of the door to sit well. At first I thought the latch would pull it in each time it closed, but the repeated stress of that bothered me. I'll release the clamp tomorrow to finish the fiberglassing, and re-fit the door.
I just love a challange...
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