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Very ingenious. On the last 3 cars that I have towed behind my motorhome, rather than tap into the electrical system or add external lights I have removed the tail light assembly, drilled a hole in the reflector then siliconed in a dual element socket for a GE57 bulb. I then wire that back to the front of the car and plug in. The beauty is that the separate system doesn't cause any backfeed in the tow vehicles's electrical system thus eliminating diodes. Works great if you have the room in the housing.
David, Very NICE job.

I have a towbar that I had made for my Spyder. It is made out of a regular bug bar and a super ber, along with some additonal material for gussets and also a couple feet of tube. It weighs over 30 pounds and works quite well.

I like what you did for the bar, great work.

For the taillights, my Spyder already has a 4 pin trailer connector at the rear end for when you remove the entire engine cover. So I ran an extension to the front of the car and plug that in instead of the car's harness. The slack to the tow vehicle gets coiled up in the front trunk when not in use. Works flawlessly so far for over 2000 miles of flat-towing.

BTW, you need to use 2 safety chains from the tow vehicle to the towed vehicle in most states.
Danny - David has 2 to Tow vehicle and 2 to Tow'd in picture -so he's legsal right? Ingenious use of PVC for rear bumper light bar! Ha just need 3rd LED brake light in center and sign "I'm pushing as hard as I can".

I have traditional bympers on my garage queen and, of course, the brackets are mounted per the manual where the prevent use of std bug tow bar on the beam. It worked before I installed the bumper - but I used a Harbor Freight adjustable dropped hitch ($20) to lower the ball for alignment.

I've got to rig up something similiar! (I'd like to not have to remove the bumper though as it has fog lights and alignment was a pain compared to Nerf bars).
I got it from a guy on the Samba. It is made to pull a VW bus. I have not set it up or used it yet. Apparently you need a narrowed bar for a bus and after seeing it, and getting measurements from him, it will fit to the beam inside of each bumper mount. It has a long reach to clear the front valance and an upward gooseneck to reach the hitch ball. It also unbolts and comes apart for storage.

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Wolfgang - 1000# rated U-bolts came from Marshals Hardware store,about five miles from home here in San Diego. Marshals carries every nut, bolt, fastner, clip or attaching do-dad known to man, in SAE or Metric! That is one advantage of living in a city of one million people!

http://www.marshallshardware.com/

Bill - I like what you've done with your tow bar. That was my first choice when I started - until I found speedy was was way too low for that style of bar.

Everyone should remember that a "standard" under-beam tow bar for a Beetle is a little too short for the front overhang on a speedster. The front "kick-up" will interfere. I had to extend the bottom tubing of one about 6 inches before it would fit. Don't know if same problem exists on a bus?
Just finished adapting an EMPI super beetle towbar adaptor plate to my IM chassis today. Basically a 3x7 angle which fits between the torsion mounts and allows maximum ground clearance for the towbar mounts. The adapter will be a perm part of the chassis with the EMPI adaptor being removable with 6 grade 8 bolts.

Tomm
Yes, I have a strap but it's not on yet. I also have some red/white high reflective tape that they use on school buses to stick on it. The sucker should light up like a roman candle!
I got these lights for 10 bucks!
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-lights/12-volt-magnetic-towing-light-kit-96933.html

Michael, Funny you caught that. The cat is 20 years old and deaf as a stone. I raised the garage door, took the picture and closed the door. He never woke up.

~WB
Wolfgang - that red speedster pix is the one that inspired me to design my hinged tow bar. Thank you very much.

Tomm - beware of any speed bumps or repaved streets with rain gullys in them. That, and my own driveway, is what scared me off from putting the tow handles under the bodywork - where they belong! Wish you good results.
I can relocate the tabs on the EMPI towbar to the centerline of the arms or even to the top of the arm but every inch severely limits angular travel and increases the risk of bumper damage. Without removal of the bumper, I could extend the steel plate out and then up, in front of the bumper to create a higher towbar mounting point if this setup does not work. We'll see.

Tomm
OK, I successfully towed from Olympia to Vancouver, BC, Canada today with the new setup. I added DOT approved 6000lb safety cables before starting out. Tracked great and did not adversely affect the ride of the tow car. Stayed between 60 and 70 the whole way.

The attached pic shows my stylin' setup. Decided to tow the car, then had to get a metallic blue tow vehicle of course.

Tomm

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Brian: First of all this stretched bar is made to pull a VW Bus.
It is narrower also. I picked up on this idea as our cars have bumper mounts that mount on each end of the beam and prevents the usage of a standard Beetle towbar which is wider and too short to clear the front valance.
The first pic is the way it came. The vertical mounts as is put the beam right at bar level. I needed a higher "reach" so as to clear my sway bar and have the towbar level.

You can note in the after pic that the VW Beetle mount places the bottom of the beam about 1 1/2" higher off of the towbar. Sorta reaching up higher to grab the beam. Now when connected to the beam, the towbar is parallel to the ground AND clears the sway bar by about 3/8". Not much, but just enough for my liking.

Another problem with the old mounts I encountered is they were set 2 1/2" apart.
Apparently VW bus beam tubes are 2 1/2" in diameter whilst standard Beetle beam tubes are 2" diam. (I assume)

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