Trick question gentlemen. Will engine lid hinges off a 79 911 fit on a CMC speedster?
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Since where they bolt to both in the car and on the engine lid are probably in different places, I'd say probably not. Give it a go and let us know what you come up with. Al
I believe it is Emory's silver Outlaw coupe has external hinges that are pretty cool if you are considering that look. Check the Jay Leno"s Garage episodes for the one where Rod shows off his to Outlaw coupes. He spends a moment discussing those hinges.
If you are looking for a nice update - contact Greg at Vintage Motorcars/Spyder. He makes custom hinges that look really good.
I believe the old 356 hinges will work. They have an automatic open to latch feature and have the cool looking lightening holes. They used to be on eBay for cheap - but not so much now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-U...HjNWBSp8&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsch...VaBS0Jyr&vxp=mtr
Bruce, now there's a product you could make a whole lot better than the current doo-dads with a pin to hold the hood up...
Here is what Greg produces (polished or chrome). Mine are polished.
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Well gentlemen I've had a look at the hinge arrangement and frankly, I'm dreaming if I think I'm going to get those 911 hinges to work without a whole alota work.
I think Vintage Motor Cars makes custom hinges for our cars that look like 356.
Rusty S posted:I think Vintage Motor Cars makes custom hinges for our cars that look like 356.
See my pic above
I just happen to have an original set of hinges from a 356 that I should sell.
We talking engine lid or hood?
I have external hinges on the engine hood, they just look like they came off a 1920s kitchen cupboard. Not pretty at all. my parts list is growing
They might be Triumph TR2/3 hinges
There much nicer than mine
see
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They must be boat parts or like you said from a 1920 kitchen cabinet. The cast ones from VS (either VS) work great - but like I mentioned before there is an angle iron pivot point piece needed that the one VS does not list. The cast one could be sanded and polished for a nice finish but suspect if too many holes were drilled it would become weakened.
No pic here either.
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This is the part you need (2). I can get dimensions this weekend - unless someone has a car at hand to measure. Fortunately, it's one of the easier made parts - no welding required. Issue you will have is someone cut out the entire inner panel rain shield on your lid (so air cleaner could fit)! The cast hinges get bolted to that rain shield. Argh, Your engine seems to be awfully high (perhaps the frame was not shortened and welded straight You might need a 36hp shroud which is not square but is more rounded..
Below is hood liner that is cut out in the center but where hinges mount is still there.
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The underside of the hood is missing so there's nowhere to mount the hinges. Can someone show me a picture of that rain shield please.
They look pretty straight forward there Wolfgang. I can make those.
Cheers
Where does the hood latch mount?
I don't think there is room - hinges will hit shroud. Alternatives are a 36 hp shroud (might work), TR3 hinges (nicer looking but external), or racing hood pins.
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Ok that too has been cut off! Not need with using 4 hood pins.
The blue shroud is much lower. Mine and the red one look like they might be the same, however mine sits higher at the top.
My whole engine looks like it sits quite high. The Alt pulley is fully exposed
DrClock has come across that in past - he says it's from when the VW chassis is shortened (10.5" removed), and the pieces are welded back together on an angle (not perfectly flat). Believe he rewelds pans on a perfectly flat steel table. Suspect it also affects shifting gears and rear alignment? Time for a beer...
We're on the same page Wolfgang :~)
You should have about 3" from the top of the shroud to the underside of the decl lid lip...which you don't. Here's what happened...The reason for the inner liner of the deck lid being removed is because the top of the alt. pulley hit it ? Both the squared off and rounded 36 HP shrouds will still hit the underside of an installed deck lid liner ( a lot of work and money thrown away) so that won't work for you. This would be because when the chassis when shortened it was not quite even and the rear of the chassis is up a couple of degrees from horizontal, which in turn raises the motor position. I fabricate a lot on speedsters and have decent looking cosmetic fix's / ideas that I have used. Tell me your goals and I can steer you in the right direction w/o breaking the bank. ~Alan
Sorry you said panel -- I thought you meant pattern. You can buy the entire inner liner for around $100 (RustyTubs) or a new louvered engine lid with separate liner included for $495. I don't recommend RT but they have parts shown and prices listed online.
http://www.rustytubs.com/porsc...ouvered-kit-car.html
Is there a method for checking the pan for flatness and if it is bent can I just slash the tunnel, open up the gap by jacking the car in line with the slash line and re-weld. Sounds easy lol. Now tell me I'm dreaming Alan and how to fix please.
There is no accurate way to measure with the body on the chassis. Sorry but no again you can't cut across the top and side of the tunnel and expect the chassis to bend with a jack under it with the body on the chassis because the inner steel tube frame will not allow for any movement. I'll suggest living with what you have as it will not be a concern other than figuring out what you prefer with the deck lid......and we can figure that out
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Nice I've got a lowered Speedster or I should say I will have. Check out that angle.
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Will that shroud be sitting closer to the firewall?
I've had a look st the CMC build manual and contemplated my navel and can see that this engine situation is compounding. There's really only one thing to do and that's break the back and straighten it. Alan, some of your wisdom will be asked for on getting it right. I'm not settling for a sows ear when I want a silk purse.
AH, you now officially have the MADNESS! Suspect you'll find other things to fix and upgrade "while it's apart"! Curious does it drive and shift like it is now?
Should you go with Wolfgang's "while it's apart" quote you'll have it torn down to the chassis on jack stands.....I know of this illness.
I was told that it drives great but that's up for interpretation. It's still in LA but I have had good news. It's cleared customs and awaiting shipping. Probably next week it hits the water. I have a list already. It's looking like that first thing is going to be is fix the chassis. bugger. You get that. I'm going to want a 2 liter or something under that hood so the carbs are going to have to clear that hood. I'll to wait and see how nice our compliance guy is going to be to me. I know I've got to put in side intrusion bars in the doors from the top hinge to the lock mechanism so that means carving up the doors. Hers some pics.