Skip to main content

This story needs to be told, but is hard to know where to start. Maybe it begins like this: a few weeks ago I began to notice a slight popping out the exhaust especially at transitional throttle, either just about to back off, or just about to get going. Also there was some popping at idle. Nothing too serious, but different from the way it was behaving up

2007 JPS MotorSports Speedster

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Hey Kelly, imagine how boring life would be if we had ALL the answers? Sometimes I think I'ld settle for just one or two answers.

Don't know what carbs you are running, but I know Webers sure do not like excess pressure. They require a pressure regulator to limit pressure to about 2.5 to 3.0 psi (if my memory is correct). Before installing a regulator, the pump pressure did indeed overwhelm the carb shutoff device, resulting in, in my case, internal leakage down the intake manifold and completely (yes, completely) filling cylinder #4 with liquid fuel. Luckily I caught it, drained it and got it working OK. Then I also installed a manual fuel shutoff valve in the engine compartment. I always close that valve if parked more than one day.

You may have experienced a similar issue. By the way, nobody believed I actually had a fuel leak around the carb to manifold gasket because "there is no gas there"! WRONG! The wizard of weird and bizare seems to enjoy infiltrating VW powerplants. PRESERVERE!
I am running 44 IDFs on my 2332 engine. The replacement pump is supposed to deliver between 2.5 and 4.0 psi. And so far the engine seems to be running MUCH better w/ this new pump, better than ever before, actually. Glory be!! I have been told that 3.5 psi is the useful upper limit for Webers, and I am hoping what I have here will be OK. So far, seems to be. I am taking the specs for the pump as given, and so not using a seperate pressure regulator. I have heard about hydraulic lock-up from filling a cylinder w/ liquid gas. Ouch!! Can't be anything good about that. Also, sounds like a fire waiting to happen.
I should clarify my prior post. While the fuel pump did indeed overwhelm the carb shutoff (it RAN much better after a regulator), the contributing culprit was some corrosion that prevented the carb shutoff from working. Plus, I park on an incline and I figure, once opened, the dreaded siphon effect probably filled the cylinders. Sorry, I always considered English to be my foreign language in school.
Details, as these may be of interest:

The replacement I put in is Airtex (assembled in Mexico) Model E8016S, that I got at Papa Parts, a local parts supplier (retail/wholesale) where they have just about everything, or can get it in two hours. I think I saw this pump listed on a website when I Googled "electronic fuel pumps". Looks something like the one you show here in that it is a cylinder. Came equipped w/ a metal can filter installed on the inlet side. Cost about $50.00. The one that was in there was a Facet (made in the USA), from EMPI Part no. 41-2010-8. So far, the new one seems to be working fine. JPS says that they get about 10% failure rate on the Facets -- 10%!!!! What kind of QC is that?

PS: the EMPI one has printed on the box: "Legal in CA ONLY for race cars that never (underlined) are used on a highway". And these are what JPS puts in his cars, made in CA.
The culprit -- at least for the leaking. This hole is not normally visible, as this face of the pump is covered by a label. Sticky part of label disolved by the gas, so it came off. Now thoroughly convinced that the pump was over-presurizing the carbs. Perhaps if it was not overpressurizing, it would not have leaked? Anyway, out w/ the bad, and in w/ the good -- or at least "other", presummed to be good.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_1100_1
Plug wires work real well keeping the high voltage where it is supposed to be. Routing can keep them clear of other stuff, to some degree. I put the pump here because that is ~where the other one was, and the line from tank stops at this location. I probably could get it out of the engine compartment, but you know, no matter where it is, what it deals with goes to the engine compartment, so whatcha gonna do? This particular item looks like it is built like a tank: all metal case totally sealed up. Certainly WAY better than what was in there previously. Side note: JPS wanted to know the make/model w/ idea to use this vs. the one he has been using.

As to pressure capability, this pump comes in two different delivery pressures, in the same can, as I understand it. The specs say this one puts out 2.5 to 4 psi; the other version runs higher. I was told to use 3.5 psi for the Webers, and figured this was close enough. I have not measured its output, but could/will do so somewhere along the line. The regulator thing is THE RIGHT thing to do, obviously. What I know is, this is working like it should.
Kelly, I know TC disagreed with the Facet I have, but it's been steady and reliable for a year now, at a predictable 3 psi.
It's on isolators, left side forward, and behind the in-line filter.
AutoFab on Route 1 has them for days.
The second picture is that vent line that goes to the lowest part of the chassis from the highest point on the tank. I haven't had any fuel-smelliness since it was run that way.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 101306 fuel filter
  • 092806 V fuel vent hose
Kelley wrote (in his inimitable style): "I probably could get it out of the engine compartment, but you know, no matter where it is, what it deals with goes to the engine compartment, so whatcha gonna do?"

Well, to start, your pump doesn't suck.......

In fact, it is more of a "pusher". It relies on a nice, impediment-free gravity feed, and then pressurizes the output to that nice 3.5 lbs. pressure or thereabouts. Asking it to pull the fuel from that far off (the tank in the front) is asking a lot, even though it's getting a gravity feed of sorts.

I know that you mounted it where the old one was and it seems to be working OK, but having it (or ANY fuel line) that close to a spark plug/wire kind-of scares me and I start seeing pictures of Ron O'Blacks's charred speedster remains. I always make sure that Sparky things and fuel deliver systems are as far separated as I can possibly make them. Remember.....it's not the liquid fuel that ignites first, but the fuel VAPOR!

That pump is actually better placed in the front of the car, just below the tank. There's a place just forward of the passenger bulkhead that seems perfect for it; short gravity feed, nice flat area to mount it, easy to run a wire from the ignition circuit to power it, the steel tube running to the rear of the car is right there and NO SPARKING SOURCES ANYWHERE!!

While you're at it, you might as well run your fuel hoses around the back of the engine, too, to keep them from any spark source. Bring the main feed up the driver's side to a banjo fitting on the D-side carb, then route the second hose around the back of the fan housing to the P-side carb fitting and you're done. Just make sure the hoses don't run close to anything Sparky or hot.

We just don't want to see a picture of the charred remains of Kelley's car on here (or anywhere else).

gn
All,

Right you are. I have a winter project to hard plumb all the loose rubber fuel line hoses now in place. At that time, can relocate pump too. Will have to scout out where the fuel line goes and how to get it mounted up. Gordon's concept seems quite manageable. Sparks and gas to come together only on top of the pistons, please; all the rest: high and dry. I do need to keep in mind that I am the Snake-bit Kid where this car is concerned (cracked carb leaking, cracked engine case leaking, cracked fule pump leaking) to it seems Murphy has taken a special interest in me. I need to keep a step ahead of him.
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×