hole filler material?

I have a few "holes" that need to be filled. It is not a big enough job to break out the resin, catalyst/hardener and cloth. Anyone have a "quick-fix" suggestion. I am thinking bondo, but that requires more finishing work than I want to do. I need to fill a few holes where a couple of "button/snaps" used to be.

Also, my car is a glossy black. I am sure that the paint is nothing/anything special... is there an "over-the-counter" rattle-can paint that I could use just to hide the few holes that I have to fill? I will paint the car at some point, but for right now I just want to hide a few blemishes.

I know for a fact that there's a special filler just for fiberglass. Try to use that as opposed to regular filler; if I recall correctly it has fibers in it; the one I saw was green colored.

"I have a few "holes" that need to be filled."

Come on.. Nobody is gonna jump on this??? I know I am not the only immature one on here that has some silly teenager comment for this.

Actually, I had some holes in my cobra that were there for a race rollbar that I didn't keep installed all the time, so I had machined aluminum plugs made and painted them the same color as the car so they could be removed when the rollbar was needed, but not noticable when they were in. If you going to eventually get the car painted maybe do something temporary like that until you can get it done right.

James

Kevin, this stuff (top of list) is what I bought specifically for my car. It works for hand-built composite aircraft.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cm/fillers.html
$20 for the smaller 20/12-oz. combo, and you're on your way.

James -- nobody wants to be the GUY who says "Fill THIS hole!"

...you noticed that neither Vince nor I went anywhere near that line!!

There is a product I've seen and used, bought it in PepBoys out here in CA. Mines gone or I'd read the name off of label, but it was like $8.00, it air dried and required no catalyst. It came in a good-sized tube and was pretty quick to dry and easy to sand. I used it on some of the holes in my dashboard after I removed the Hula-girl. I just used gloss black Pactra model car paint

thanks paul, on my way to pep boys now.

Od, with a solid color paint job like yours we should be able to blend some spray paint in IF it's a very close match for color. I did it on some areas on my old MG, and nobody could ever tell where it was.

I finally got around to putting the full tonneau, talbot style mirrors and the rear bumperettes on. The tonneau came with snaps already on it and only the rear-center was the only matching location. So, should I pull out the old snaps and try to cover the holes in the vinyl? Or leave them in?

When I had a black car I discovered there are different shades of black.

Kevin, I wish I had taken the time to really document the condition of my rear body section when it went in for surgery the first time. There were a number of very fine cracks in the Gelcoat on the uphill side of the screw holes for each body-side snap because of temperature variances overnight as my car sat outdoors. The material grew and shrank by as much as a quarter-inch each night, seemingly regardless of season. The fix for those involved die-grinding out the screw holes themselves and then filling them individually and sanding the whole works.
If your car was painted, you might want to go back to the shop that did it, or maybe a reliable one nearby, and find out what they would get you to touch up just that section.
If my red car can be used as any kind of a viable comparison, the body's color under the tonneau/top was much brighter than the rest of the car. The red hadn't faded at all, even though the fiberglass had been more abused than the longer, smoother sections.
I guess my answer would be to use the existing tonneau, mark the body for placement of new holes, drill out and fill/sand the old ones and then reset the snaps with the screws in new locations which correspond with the tonneau.
It's easier, and probably more cost-effective, to leave the top alone -- and just have the paint equivalent of a fender painted -- than to have upholstry fixed or its material wrecked.

Key in all of that would be if you have a top; do the snaps on it line up with the car, or the tonneau?

I have already added the snaps on the new tonneau... the question remains - leave the old snaps on the tonneau (old location) or remove them and patch the tonneau. The quarter tonneau and the convert top were purchased new and installed by me, so they have the same snap locations.

Two of the snaps had to be removed so the lock-snaps could be installed, and when I removed the single snaps to add the lock-snaps, the holes where the single snaps were located are now visible and those are the holes that I want to fill. Very very small holes.

I also want to put the mirrors on the doors and remove them from the fender, so those holes will also need to be filled too.

NOW I understand. I think.
What's the top material made of? Is it the standard rubberized canvas, or is it the better-quality stuff Haartz (sp?) produces? You might be able to patch and match with a vinyl repair kit (Wal-Mart), or maybe an upholstry guy with a trick or two up his sleeve could do you a favor.
I didn't realize it before -- you effectively have two sets of snaps in your tonneau, right? I'd say you're probably right on about removing the ones that no longer line up.

You might be able to have an upholstery shop sew a strip of similar fabric full length along the edge to cover the old holes in the tonneau, and then put the snaps in. Then, the tonneau may look like it was made that way. Just a thought.

Bob

Try Ding Stick...its used to repair surfboards but you can buy a very similar product at your local home store. Its a two part epoxy that comes in a tube and you cut off how much you need than knead it to mix the two parts. This stuff, even the stuff made for wood repairs, is great! It sticks to anything...even wet surfboards. It doesn't look like it has stuck but you let it cure and the stuff is on there. You can then drill and tap, sand, etc. I've used this stuff a few times to fill holes where my snaps have moved or stripped out the threads making the holes too big. Works like a charm...quick too and no clean up. Everyone should have a tube of this stuff in their tool box.

And if it works for Brian, that means it's good to 40 below.