Hood crest

Todd;

Could you, back drill the hole, with a forstner bit, that the nut could sit down in?

Art

Art

not sure i follow.  The hole is big enough it's just the post on the hood crest I bought is not long enough.  I can't get anything to secure it properly to the underside of the hood because of it.  The beck crest is at least a quarter inch longer and it is threaded.  I really am hoping to find a threaded Porsche crest.  I would rather not have to glue this on either.

The one for 356 hood handle has single threaded stud but only 1" size!  I'd Dremel fiberglass thinner or use hole to center current stud and put 3M double side foam tape on emblem and stick it on.

I thought about the double sided tape as well but it has this beautiful leather gasket between emblem and car so not sure how to do both.  Trying to do this while still using the leather gasket.  

The 1" is what I have but its not threaded.  Where did you see the threaded one?

The one on the left is the beck and the one on right is a Porsche crest.  I am hoping to find a Porsche crest that has those threads like the beck or a way to get the one on the right secured with that shorter post.

Meant to post pic.  My wife said cheesesteak and I lost all track of being human.

There are two ways that I can think of to get this done but I'm sure there are many others.  The first method I can think of is to countersink the hole (Art's recommendation) on the underside of the hood or trunk (wherever you're putting the crest). Here's a wiki article that shows the steps but the real reason I'm using that link is so you can see what it looks like so you have an understanding of what it is.  The hole you make for the nut to sit in would have to be large enough to allow you to get a socket around it. Here's the link:http://www.wikihow.com/Countersink

The second method I can think of is to remove the threaded post from one page and affix it to the Porsche crest you buy.

I just thought of a third option and that would be to use a threaded cap nut that would fit a shorter post. Here's a link to a standard cap nut, you'd need a slotted one for a flathead screwdriver: http://www.rockler.com/cap-nuts-for-connector-bolts

I like that second idea. I am also wondering if a low profile self tapping nut would work. There just isn't much of that post to grasp on to

Robert, thanks for the clarification, of my non-technical dribble.

Todd, another idea,  get a jeweler to braze a correct length threaded rod on the insignia.

I'm not sure of the size, but e-bay sellers have porsche key rings with metal insignia's dirt cheap.

I've used fasteners like that cap nut mentioned above, but they were a lot smaller than the 1/4-20 that Rockler shows - That size simply wouldn't work if the post is a lot smaller.

Something like a 10/32 might work, but you would have to get a Porsche crest with the plain post, then thread it with a proper die set and then use a cap nut to fit the newly threaded post.

Here is a link to smaller cap nuts that might work:

https://www.fastenersavings.co...orative-ct-1934.html

Gordon Nichols posted:

I've used fasteners like that cap nut mentioned above, but they were a lot smaller than the 1/4-20 that Rockler shows - That size simply wouldn't work if the post is a lot smaller.

Something like a 10/32 might work, but you would have to get a Porsche crest with the plain post, then thread it with a proper die set and then use a cap nut to fit the newly threaded post.

Here is a link to smaller cap nuts that might work:

https://www.fastenersavings.co...orative-ct-1934.html

I realize that Gordon, my post was merely to show Todd what a cap nut is. I have no idea what size the threaded portion of that rod is. It'd be one thing to tell him to use a cap nut, my goal was to show him what a cap nut is so he can find the right one if that's what he decides to use.

Go buy a threaded union maybe 1/2" long or so ( basically a little pipe w/ correct female thread on inside) and a plain threaded stud/rod of appropriate length. Screw the union to the existing stud on back of emblem ~ half way, and then screw in the stud you bought into the other half, cut to fit. Use thread locker.  Easy-peasy, all done.  no jewelers.  If you feel the union adds too much length, then just shorten the stud on the emblem a bit to make it all come out right on the other end.  Will need a slightly larger hole to admit the extra diameter of the union, but should not be a big deal.

Got'cha, Bob - That's what I thought....

This is so much easier.  And no holes in car.  Just demel post off. 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...acing-emblems?page=1

With step by step instructions and pictures.

Although I think he would like to use  the leather gasket too, Phil.  I would try to use a die and carfully thread that little sucker.  For emblems in general though I would most definitely use double-sided tape and save lots of headaches.

Update.  Thank you all for the ideas.  Here is what I did.  Because there is not much to holding these things on the car, I cut the non threaded post off the Porsche crest, bought small threaded nut, used a Drexel to cut the end off, gorilla glued a small washer and the thread to the Porsche crest.  I used the washer to give the thread something to sit in...kind of like a spot weld.

this is a cheap and probably ridiculous fix, but looking forward to seeing how my 3.00 fix works!  

Todd - posted:

Update.  Thank you all for the ideas.  Here is what I did.  Because there is not much to holding these things on the car, I cut the non threaded post off the Porsche crest, bought small threaded nut, used a Drexel to cut the end off, gorilla glued a small washer and the thread to the Porsche crest.  I used the washer to give the thread something to sit in...kind of like a spot weld.

this is a cheap and probably ridiculous fix, but looking forward to seeing how my 3.00 fix works!  

Sometimes the easiest fix IS the best fix.  I epoxied one of the posts back on one of my grill badges after it broke off.  One year later and it is holding strong.

Todd, 

in many high bond applications (sign industry) I have used 3M VHB Tape (the clear type with red liner). This stuff is even used in Truck industry for permanently bonding metals together.   High pull and shear strength.  Wheather resistant too.

Their 3M 467MP is much thinner film but very high bond also (not as strong as VHB) .  This film has advantage of approx. only .002" thickness and so fits applications when you want flat mount to surface.  Good luck.

Tom L

Pls let's end this one up by having some words/pics about how this "problem" was solved.

Lol...not at completion yet.  My fix didnt work.  Stay tuned!  Right now both front and back are still sporting the beck crest.  I may leave it that way...

Good idea.  Why not pay homage to the fellows who made your car?

Bob as I started this process of having to rig these posts, etc I started to think the same thing.  My horn button is Porsche but the front and back Jody say beck.  I may just leaving it...as they are the manufacturer and deserve thit credit!

Exactly.  My new IM has Intermeccanica badging on it front, back, sides, and on the steering wheel, and I'm proud to display that. 

I actually want people to know who built my car.

Actually, Henry went so far to have a front IM badge made specifically for the car.  I assume he may now use it on future ones, but I thought that was above the call of duty, as they say.

My preference is for the Porsche badging, prob'y 'cause I had some old 356s back in the day, and want to delude myself.  Maybe if I had an IM, I'd feel differently.  One of these days . . .