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Hoping one of you can give a little advice and encouragement to a guy with the wrong kind of car.

 

Bridget is an MG TD replica whose hood opens by way of a modified VW bug hood latch, with a lever actuator that's bolted in under the dash on the driver's side. The cable runs along the dash and curves on the passenger side, where it is held in place by a home-made steel bracket that's bolted to the scuttle where it meets the tub. The cable continues a lazy curve, exits through the firewall, and meets the spring latch mechanism about halfway along the hood on the passenger side.

Works fine. Or, it did work fine before I had to disconnect it from the bracket to get room for the new glove compartment I made as part of a dashboard re-do.

I figured I'd just reattach it after the glove box is installed or, failing that, screw a little hold down piece to the bottom of the glove box, which I helpfully fashioned from 3/4-inch maple.

But as I look at the thing today, I'm getting nervous.

First off, the old bracket won't work, and the glove box is in the way of that nice smooth curve the cable has known for the last 30 years. So I'm having some difficulty imagining/fabricating an as-straight path for the cable.

While pondering this complication, a worry arose: If (or when) this cable breaks, there will be no way for anyone to open the hood--and thus fuel the car--without cutting a hole somewhere in the side of the bonnet so as to reach in. Can't get in from underneath and it's way too far--and blocked by the gas tank--from the passenger compartment.

I've heard tell of a fix where by, on Bugs and Speedsters, an "emergency" cable is attached to the mechanism and left hanging down, accessible through a hole under the car.

But looking at the mechanism, I don't see how it might be done. Can anyone school me?

And while we're at it, yeah: I bought a new cable already years back. Been meaning to install. BUT: I got just the wire part. My existing sheath has been busted in a couple of places since I got the car. Never seemed to bother its effectiveness. But still: how important is the sheath to replace?

And my third: where do I find this part?

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On my CMC, I installed an "emergency" cable on the rear deck lid latch.....   I used solid stainless steel welding wire fed through the original sheath...The "E" wire is routed through

a hole in the sheath (drilled by yours truly) in the driver side rear wheel well, and has a stainless washer as a handle...    Hope this helps...

Helpful, thanks. My main confusion is with the latch mechanism itself--where to attach the emergency wire on it? The original is through a barrel connector and the hole through that is exactly one wire wide. I'm trying to figure out where the second wire goes.

 

Doesn't help that, the way the car is arranged, I can only look at it upside-down from the top. It's riveted in and looks pretty delicately adjusted so I don't want to pull it.

Giday, Ed. Never mind for now if the cable was broken or not, but with the hood open and you can see the latch, can you move it with your hand as if someone was pulling on the release cable? If you can, then can you see a little spot on the latch where you could drill a small hole and run a loose wire though and fixed to the hole which could be led out, over and down somewhere for emergency use?

 

Just thinking, Lane....a bicycle brake cable would have to be "stopped" on both ends of it's sheath like a Bowden tube and it may be a pain to install those stop points. My sheath is just a metal tube fixed to points along it's length.

 Use a firebird trunk release solenoid and a push button switch  a wire would be simple to route   and a 10 gauge black wire woud be easy to hide in the wheel well  made to look like a ground wire and attach the other end to the latch, as a backup release.

   Thats a pretty big solenoid..   But it might not be strong enough without a longer lever on the latch the only concern i see  left is space under the nose for all this   it will be a snug fit

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