Hi,
Has anybody ever had an experience where the hood won't open. I believe it's stuck. pulling the latch does nothing. Is there a special way to get it to open?
Duke
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Hi,
Has anybody ever had an experience where the hood won't open. I believe it's stuck. pulling the latch does nothing. Is there a special way to get it to open?
Duke
Has anybody ever had an experience where the hood won't open. I believe it's stuck. pulling the latch does nothing. Is there a special way to get it to open?
Duke
That happened to me as well. Most likely the cable stretched. That caused me to have difficulty opening the hood, so I adjusted the length of the, um, long thing with the spring on it (whatever it's called). Bad idea. I wound up having to cut a hole in the driver's side wheel well to reach in to the trunk and release the latch from below. Since my ordeal, Carey has added an emergency access hole for access if this sort of thing happens. Look in the driver's side wheel well for a round cover between the wheel well and the trunk up toward the front. If you don't have one, you may need to cut one. I had a filler panel made out of aluminum that I bolted in.
Call Carey at Special Edition as he can probably guide you through figuring it out.
Call Carey at Special Edition as he can probably guide you through figuring it out.
i believe i am remembering correctly but my VS wouldnt open so i got underneath and stuck a screwdriver into the mechanism and it opened.
Are you sure it's the latch mechanism? Might be the hood sealing rubber attached on the body has stuck to the hood. Some persistance at lifting may work and then lube the rubber piece.
Bob, the Beck doesn't have access to the latch from underneath. That area is where the spare tire sits. The emergency access hole was added in recognition of this potential problem. I'll post the picture when I get home.
Also, once you (Duke) get the hood open, you can adjust the latch mechanism. The owner's manual I did shows how to do this, but if you don't have one (probably not, since your car is an '06) I can email the page, or you can get the whole thing from Carey.
Also, once you (Duke) get the hood open, you can adjust the latch mechanism. The owner's manual I did shows how to do this, but if you don't have one (probably not, since your car is an '06) I can email the page, or you can get the whole thing from Carey.
As was mentioned, it may be stuck. Have someone pull on the hood while you pull the cable. It may release and solve your porblem.
the hood is on the pretty tight. i think the bolt went thru the latch so pulling the latch doesn't do anything. I might have to cut a hole.
Mine stuck and I was out of gas. I climbed underneath and using a screwdriver, pressed the release and she opened. It's not happened again, but I really have to pull hard to open her.
Anyone know how to adjust the latch pull?
Anyone know how to adjust the latch pull?
I would disconnect the cable at the latch ( small set screw) and pull the cable out of the tub then add a small amout of grease on the cable as you reinsert it back into the tube, also lube the latch mech.
Make sure that the plunger isn't off set to rub against the latch that too would make it hard to release.
Make sure that the plunger isn't off set to rub against the latch that too would make it hard to release.
Duke, have you tried to press down on the hood ( second person required ) while someone pulls the rip cord ? Second idea is to get someone to lean down on the hood ( preferably a lady ) while someone under this person lays on his back and manually tries to reach up and force the latch open by hand ? Small or large hammer in hand ?
On a unaltered Vs you can get under the car ad trip the latch with a screwdriver ..
Mine has been monified for the full size spare I added small drain holes at the front for a long long screwdriver letting you do the same proceedure.
Otherwise,, Alan and Lane ,,pretty well covered your cable probem and service. issues And you do need to grease that cable to make it work a lot better It realy helps it.
Mine has been monified for the full size spare I added small drain holes at the front for a long long screwdriver letting you do the same proceedure.
Otherwise,, Alan and Lane ,,pretty well covered your cable probem and service. issues And you do need to grease that cable to make it work a lot better It realy helps it.
Like I said above, there is no access to the latch with the hood closed on a Beck. Unless he can get it open with a friend pressing down on it while he works the level on the steering column, he's going to have to cut a hole in the wheel well.
There is an access under the wheel well on the driver's side (Beck). The hole is covered with a plastic plug about 4 inches in diameter. Remove this plug with a screwdriver then reach and feel. Pull the cable or you might get lucky to reach the latch mechanism. I've had this problem and Carey showed me how to release the hood even when the compartment was too full. The bonnet was shut and raised on one side,
Check your Beck!
Check your Beck!
Must be the week for hood problems because mine won't close. No obstructions. The moving latch appears to have moved in such a way that it prevents the brass knob from fully engaging the opening. Do I adjust the cable and tighten, opening the latch allowing the brass knob to pass thru?
Argggghh!
Argggghh!
If you have the owner's manual, check page 47. There's a picture that shows where the adjustment hole is. The page test is below:
"Under some circumstances the hood release cable may stretch, causing the hood latch to become difficult to operate. The slack in this cable can be adjusted as illustrated in Figure 33 below. The small hole visible just to the lower left of the latch allows a small Phillips-head screwdriver to be inserted to adjust the tension on the cable. To do so, grasp the end of the cable to the left of the clamp with pliers to prevent it from loosening further. Next, loosen the screw and pull the cable slightly further out with the pliers. Tighten the screw on the clamp and release the pliers from the cable. Test to ensure that the release works properly."
The hole that the paragraph talks about is on the latch mounting panel on the body, just to the lower left of the latch itself. The safest way to test is to remove that upper latch assembly from the hood and push it into the latch as if the hood was being closed. That way if it jams, you are not stuck with your hood closed and you can still get to the latch. There are only two bolts that have to be removed to do that.
Aaron, his car may not have the access panel as it is an '06 like mine. Carey didn't start putting them in until after I had my near disaster in late '06. I had to cut my access hole.
"Under some circumstances the hood release cable may stretch, causing the hood latch to become difficult to operate. The slack in this cable can be adjusted as illustrated in Figure 33 below. The small hole visible just to the lower left of the latch allows a small Phillips-head screwdriver to be inserted to adjust the tension on the cable. To do so, grasp the end of the cable to the left of the clamp with pliers to prevent it from loosening further. Next, loosen the screw and pull the cable slightly further out with the pliers. Tighten the screw on the clamp and release the pliers from the cable. Test to ensure that the release works properly."
The hole that the paragraph talks about is on the latch mounting panel on the body, just to the lower left of the latch itself. The safest way to test is to remove that upper latch assembly from the hood and push it into the latch as if the hood was being closed. That way if it jams, you are not stuck with your hood closed and you can still get to the latch. There are only two bolts that have to be removed to do that.
Aaron, his car may not have the access panel as it is an '06 like mine. Carey didn't start putting them in until after I had my near disaster in late '06. I had to cut my access hole.
Boys in the Hood ???? sounds like a song.
Darn, the best solution would be to cut a hole and add a plastic plug. Saws-all or a very large hole saw and repaint with a flat black. I personally would like to see an improved hood latch. Carey has added an addition barrel locking device as a back-up. Seems like the screw in the barrel can not stay tight against the cable. An inherit problem with the barrel method.
A Morse type cable would solve the problem, but would be an increased cost. Boy, look at how easy the adjustment would be!
Better cables than the "lawn mower type wire warped cable are on the market...the reason I went with the 550 Spyder type hydraulic clutch, brake and accelerator pedal assembly from Fibersteel. Please note that the fasteners are sub-standard and should be replaced with American made grade 5s and grade 8 for those fasteners in shear. Just my opinion.
A Morse type cable would solve the problem, but would be an increased cost. Boy, look at how easy the adjustment would be!
Better cables than the "lawn mower type wire warped cable are on the market...the reason I went with the 550 Spyder type hydraulic clutch, brake and accelerator pedal assembly from Fibersteel. Please note that the fasteners are sub-standard and should be replaced with American made grade 5s and grade 8 for those fasteners in shear. Just my opinion.