I stuck an ad in the classifieds for bulb sockets, and TC and the usual suspects had some suggestions to try. This evening, I cleaned the socket, stretched the spring, re-connected and soldered the brake light's power wire and wrapped the bulb in aluminum foil, per y'all's suggestions.
The foil is only a quarter-inch wide so it doesn't interfere with the bulb's brass base or contact points, and it lets the guides lock into the socket the way they're supposed to.
The socket turns a little in the aluminum tray. I think it's supposed to be stationary, and I think it might be rotating the bulb off the contacts ever so much.
The power wire was a spotty connection, so now it's soldered and needs to be re-housed in a plug connection, but it's solid and tested okay. The brake light works again, for now. I didn't blow a single fuse. Still need a cover for the fusebox.
While I was at it, my horn has never quite worked correctly, so I made sure it was good and grounded on a bolt below the fuel cell. It's now in working order.
Still getting my ass kicked by the sending unit for the fuel gauge, but I think it's a resistance problem. I'm using a Pro-Comp series AutoMeter gauge, a JAZ tank and a JAZ unit. I'll be researching the ohms to and from and the 0-90 ohms resistance it's supposed to have in the rheostat before I say it's got the best of me. It might just be the wrong unit.
Enjoy the photos. Thanks for the suggestions on fixing the light.
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