Skip to main content

My horn is permanently "on". Best as I can figure - the switch is corroded/stuck from almost never being used. The VS black horn button sticks in the depressed state, from time to time (could very well have stayed that way for 6 mos at a time)...maybe this is what caused the forever-on problem. At any rate - I've looked at the thread detailing how to remove the horn button from the stock (banjo?) VS steering wheel hub...a 3/32" punch inserted in the three holes behind the hub. Nope. It seems to contact something...but it ain't the button. I've also tried other sizes of things to insert; same deal. They all hit a solid dead end...but not the black plastic button. How do I pop this thing off/out?
Once again...many thanks in advance.
1957 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

My horn is permanently "on". Best as I can figure - the switch is corroded/stuck from almost never being used. The VS black horn button sticks in the depressed state, from time to time (could very well have stayed that way for 6 mos at a time)...maybe this is what caused the forever-on problem. At any rate - I've looked at the thread detailing how to remove the horn button from the stock (banjo?) VS steering wheel hub...a 3/32" punch inserted in the three holes behind the hub. Nope. It seems to contact something...but it ain't the button. I've also tried other sizes of things to insert; same deal. They all hit a solid dead end...but not the black plastic button. How do I pop this thing off/out?
Once again...many thanks in advance.
Take it off.. and bend the 3 tabs back so you can get in it.. I altered the one on my bug. with a 1 inch round peace of tin with a dimple in the middle a peace of headliner foam and a wire soldered onto the tin to reground it to the outer ring .. used the sticky foam glue on the internals to keep them in place.

(( Never sticks)0 flawless operation..
A long time later - and the horn button is out. Those three little holes in the back are NOT receptacles for any kind of pin on the horn button. You just get somethin' slim in there...I used a hex wrench...and systemmatically go from one hole to the other (kinda like prying open a paint can) - until the miserable sucker pops off.
I have a flat 4 banjo. And you did it the right way..

Now that you have it out Bend back the tabs very carefuly and take it apart and inspect it I bet you can do something like I did and repair it

A peace of 1/4 infoam rubber, Like headlinner padding and a round peace of tin or (copper if your lucky) .

The foam gest cut in the shape of a doenut and a dimple is punched in the middle of the tin or copper disc to use as the new contact , let one side if the tin/copper have a tab that bends down the side to contact the chrome ring.

The foam acts as a spring to keep the dimmple off the center of the base. You'll get .It's pretty simple fix

If you have ever dismanled a 1984 or newer Corvette horn button it works the same exact way.
I haven't done any 'vette buttons, but...I have a horn problem that's too simple to solve. Maybe someone has an idea. I've read every horn wiring thread in here a dozen times, spent 5 hours fiddling, and no luck. My horn won't shut off unless I disconnect it. I thought maybe the underneath part of the horn button was the culprit...it ain't. The wiring is the original VS; the car's a '68 underneath (so I assume the steering column/wiring setup is from that year). Anyways...the ground side of the horn is attached to a tab on the steering box. The continuity's fine. The wire from the horn button that goes down the steering tube has continuity, and no wear-throughs on the insulation, far as I can see. It makes its way out the of the steering tube, passes over the insulating "donut" on the flange, and fits onto a tab on the grounded side of the flange. I changed nothin' on the wiring...just one day, the horn wouldn't shut off. I figured I had an open ground (correct terminology?) somewhere....but I sure can't find it. At this point, I'm so confused by the simplicity of it all, I can no longer have a reasonable thought about it. Is there some easy way to concoct a new version of how to make things work properly w/o resorting to putting a button on/under the dash? A hundred words ago, I forgot to mention - the steering tube's isolation from grounding is fine. Did I make any sense at all? Like life itself...this all looked so easy.
VW did this a little diffrently thru the years , so pic the applicable sec and STUDYSTUDYSTUDY :

http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqhorn.htm

FOR '67-on sumthin like this :

12v to horn+

Horn -(neg) to wiring harness to underdash/column to horn button.

Steering shaft is ISOLATED cause of nonmetallic coupler

Then the button ground wire thru center of steering shaft gets ground from steering box side.

Samba just concluded a hilariously pathetic 3 page forum discussion re this. UNINTELLIGIBLE

Google was much kinder yeilding the above link
Dave,

That was me in that "hilarious" discussion on the Samba. It was indeed painful. Two people involved...one not wanting to admit something and one not wanting to give up (me).

The steering column was grounded in my old CMC by the steel subframe. I am not sure about the Vintage set up.

I remember having to insulate the column with some sheet rubber and the support tube and have my mounting bolts pass through nylon sleeves to keep them neutral. Once I was able to achieve the task of keeping the steering assembly neutral I was able to utilize the ground wire to negatively charge the column to get my horn to function perfectly every time.
Once again, everyone - thanks for your help! My horn works as it should now...I'm posting my particular fix, just so's some other hapless future owner can consider it:
The entire horn button assembly (might only apply to my year, my builder) is a press fit. Insert something sturdy and extra-slim in the holes behind the hub, and sequentially whack on it. Eventually, the whole thing greets you by popping off. Be careful if you want to pry out the black plastic piece once you're holding the unit in your hand; it's brittle. That too, is press-fitted into the chrome ring.
Not trusting the grounding ability of the tab end at the end of the copper contact strip in side the assembly, I soldered a piece of 14 gauge wire to it, connecting the other end of the wire to one of the three lil bolts down in the hub.
The red wire traveling down the shaft and eventually exiting at the shaft's base jumps over the insulating donut and connects to a bolt head on the other side of the flange; I made sure the connection was nice and clean...and double-checked, during the process, that my entire steering shaft/column was NOT grounded, but in a neutral state.
THEN...I ran a new wire from one of the horn terminals back into the passenger compartment, going through the firewall...carefully drilled a small hole in the steering tube; I attached that ground wire there, using a small (and very short - this is important; there's a steering shaft running through that tube, you don't want to make contact) self-tapping screw. And, like they say, voila. Press on the horn button, the steering tube becomes grounded, the horn beeps.
Mebbe not particularly elegant. But hardly noticeable. And the maddeningly simple thing works. I still can't figure how the setup was wired in the first place - but the problem's history now.
So - once again, thanks for all the very helpful advice.
You know, I had the same problem a couple of months ago. Somehow the column/shaft got permanently grounded. So I took the wire that runs down the column and wrapped it around the steering shaft 4 or 5 times. This way it is never tightly wound but winds and unwinds when you turn the wheel. This wire now goes to the horn to ground and switch it, instead of jumping past the steering coupler to ground on the steering box side of the coupler.
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×