How can I tell what displacement I have?

Just picked up a speedster with an unknown engine size. The previous owner was told it had about 110hp. Is there any way of telling what I have (for a layman)? Would parts such as fuel pump, plugs, points, condenser, etc take stock parts.

not without pulling a cylinder head.

what size of carbs is it running (smaller engines can't run big carbs, so you can get an idea.

Can you ask the PO, and maybe put you in contact with who/where they got it?

Got a engine serial number (on the generator stand)?

Here's some additional infor:
Engine is called "Unbeatable Streetable" and was purchased 21 years ago. Call original builder (Vee Dub Parts)and was told it was probably a 1776. It has dual Dellortos (DRLA 36-40-45-48). Would a stock fuel pump work?

Here a link to a video of the engine.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v676/Gallion_DLareth/?action=view¤t=Audioclipofenginerunningon6-12-06.flv

I'd get a rotary Bendix-type pump that puts out 3-5# and mount it up front to push the fuel to the back. CIP1 has one made by Carter for $130.

"Unbeatable Streetable" and was purchased 21 years ago


hmmmm... if it was stroked - then you might be OK, but any performance engine at 21 years of age is definitely worth opening up and redone. heck - even a stock 1600 with all the cooling tin and a sealed engine bay would show serious signs of wear at 21 years of age. These engines did not have oil filters, so depending on climate nad oil change frequency - it could last a long time - or not.

You say you are good with tools? Comfortable with pulling the engine? It's pretty easy - just take your time.

110HP? Hmmmm.

Paul, I should add that the engine has zero miles on it. It was an incompleted project. The video link above was the engine running about a year ago using an electric pump. I assume the original fuel pump stopped working due to lack of use.

You could pull a spark plug and using a long skinny screw drive, you rotate the engine to TDC (top dead center) put the screw driver in the spark plug hole and make a mark on the shaft of the driver. Then rotate the engine to BDC (bottom dead center) put the screw driver back in the hole and make another mark on it. Now take a micrometer and measure the distance between the marks. If it is 69mm then you have a 1600cc thru a 1914cc. I would tell you how to estimate the boar size but it is not for the laymen.... The motor sounds tight and very fresh in the video, however the idle seamed high. It should be below 1000 rpm's at idle.

Bob, do you have a local circle race track. Call and ask about a P and C check. Simple and quick. I have done dozens on Saturday night racing. Results will give you cubic inches and/or cc's. John

Take Wolfgang's advice on the pump !! Don't buy a Facet woodpecker pump under any circumstances. Anyone who says that they've used one successfully for years, just hasn't driven the cars enough to get stranded. They're junk ! ! ! ! !

Oh, and the stock pump will handle those carbs just fine. But the ones being made these days aren't the greatest and can't be rebuilt or cleaned out. They look similar to the German ones, but they're all sealed up.

The new mechanical ones seem to have bad rubber in the diaphrams - when they crack and leak they can fill the crank case with explosive, non-lubricating gas (at $4+/gal)! With the electrical ones - be sure to mount an emergency on/off toggle switch - should engine catch fire you can cut the fuel source plus its a good anti-theft device (they can drive maybe 1/2 a mile before vehicle coughs and sputters to a stop - giving you time to reload). If using a FACET buy and mount 2 side by side (one as a redundant backup).

Instead of an on/off switch I used a relay from a VW Rabbit. It connnects to the coil - you can use the tach wire.

When the engine quits running the fuel pump shuts off. It includes its own fuse in the side of the relay. I can pull the fuse out for additional theft protection.

The part number is 321 906 059 C.

If anyone is interested, I can send information about wiring it.

An electrical fuel pump should be mounted up near the tank. I fastened mine to the body brace the connects to the top of the axle beam. I also added a fuel shut off valve I got from a lawnmower dealer.

Dang, TC! Back to bagging on the old Facet. ;)
Mine still works fine, mounted on isolators, right up front with the tank. I had completely forgotten your warnings about them, and never went out to get a potential replacement!
I might just go and get another one, just to have it in the tool bag.

With the relay I mentioned above, when starting the car the fuel pump doesn't work until the engine is running.

I added a momentary switch to bypass the relay so I can run the pump to fill the float chambers if the car has been sitting for a long time.

I'd say do some cleanup and tune-up and maintenance and drive it; if it ain't broke don't fix it; it sounds good in the video. You've got good carbs too; I'd say you're in good shape.

So what can I connect the positive wire to if I use an electrical pump and mount it in the rear?

It is a bad idea to mount the pump in the rear. They are better at pushing the fuel than pulling it.