How do I tell if it's a Replica?

This may be a stupid question, but what are some ways to tell whether or not a Speedster is a replica?

The most obvious is the fibreglass body.

Where to start? First, replicas are made of fiberglass. There are countless other ways to tell, however they depend on the manufacturer. Some companies are almost spot on such as the newer Intermeccanica which are almost EXACT except again, fiberglass. Other pan-based replicas depending on the details such as badging, interior, wheels, etc... the list goes on. To me one of the tell tale signs are the interiors. The VW pan based models "taper in" at the pedal cluster where as originals are more square. Also the tunnel that runs along the center of the floor is much higher in VW pans where the originals are lower and don't have an emergency brake between the seats. All that said, replicas are said to be "better" cars than the originals as far as reliability, performance and maint. I much prefer my replica over an original because I can drive it everyday and really not worry about it. And the body won't ever rust out! Nothing against the originals but my replica gives me a ton of no worry enjoyment. Mickey

Josh

1. Aluminum body (original)- fiberglass (replica)
2. Bolt pattern. Most replicas use 4 lug VW wheels(Not always).
Original use the wide five pattern,or 5x120 pattern.
3. Hand brake on original is the umbrella style under the dash. Replicas have the "regular" hand brake position between seats.
4. Pedals come from the floor on originals,replicas have the VW style.
Those are some of the visual diffrences.
I bet more people will add some more differences.

Right, thanks. Don't have it nearby or I'd go look right now, but the one thing I do remember about it is that it's got the handbrake in the center - so I'm guessing replica. Got one of these being sold by a friend of mine, and was interested in knowing a little more about it...it's not in great shape, would need a lot of work. Also its Right Hand Drive (I'm in the US).

"Aluminum body (original)- fiberglass (replica"

Original Speedsters bodies were NOT aluminium - doors may have been and perhaps (but doubt) hood/engine lid BUT not the body (ha, hence the rust!) Weight reduction was done by removing unneeded stuff (interior insulation, wind up windows, bare shell seats, thick carpeting, folding top mechanism, glove box).

http://www.speedsters.com/authent.htm

Actually the first prototypes built by Gmund in Austria were aluminum.

Ricardo, do those aluminum originals really count?
I read once the guy who was so good at rolling the fenders and coachwork for the first few was a bit of a lush, and Dr. Porsche had to sub-contract to Drauz, Karmann and so forth because the fellow was unreliable.
I'd say they probably would be considered prototypes by today's standards. Just a thought.

Yes, of course they're prototypes. I just mentioned it for its informative and entertainment purpose.

"a bit of a lush" Ah, now the English are calling "us" Germans - Lushes. Not that they don't like an occassional beer during work (many company snack bars - including those on US military installions - have bier right next to the sodas (at virtually the same price). Then a Schnapps chaser or a little Cognac. Oh, okay. I thought all the Speedsters were built by Reutter? (Where the"D" model was Draus).

...hey Josh, I lost track - what was your question again?

JIM U R TOO FUNNY

Actually, there is a REALLY easy way to tell:

If it is a nice good running, shiny car and it is $20-$30K (except for IM) than it is a replica.

If it is nice good running shiny car and it is $80 to $100 plus, well, that's a real one... Unless the guy also wants to sell you a bridge!

angela

Lambros' list is correct for the most part except on IMs

1. Aluminum body (original)- fiberglass (replica)

(Many 356 lookers feel under the fender well lips to make a quick determination for glass as most replicas have a flat edge from the mold. IM has a rolled lip as an option to giver the edges a rolled factory metal effect)

2. Bolt pattern. Most replicas use 4 lug VW wheels(Not always).
Original use the wide five pattern,or 5x120 pattern.

(Most IMs use a Wide Five Disc front & rear. The CB Wide 5s are close to the original look. Using Drum Skinz will also give the original look))

3. Hand brake on original is the umbrella style under the dash. Replicas have the "regular" hand brake position between seats.

(An IM option is having the Umbrella Style E Brake under the dash.)


4. Pedals come from the floor on originals,replicas have the VW style.

(IMs come from the floor with 356 Pedal covers)


Additional - IM has a square tunnel on the floor that replcates the original and uses a 356 style shifter. Also, some IM owners opt for an original steering column (see Dale's). Most use original bumper guards, bumper rubber, side trim, rocker deco rubber, etc. The dash padding more resembles an original and the footwell area is wider, replicating an original. Side entrance door rubber is original repro and the glassed inner front wells resemble an original. The big give away on an IM are the roll up (power) window channels.

Both the High Bow and Low Bow tops have inner liners, giving a more authentic look. IM also has optional High Riders *American Bumpers*, various styles of bumper guards to fit the year replicated, optional Beehives for a pre-A or early T-1 appearance.

FWIW Gee Whiz Info only. (NO Sales pitch)

Jim

If it's being driven, it's a replica.

That's a great one Tom!...