Living in San Diego, CA do you guys think its necessary for me to get an external oil cooler?
Thanks
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Living in San Diego, CA do you guys think its necessary for me to get an external oil cooler?
Thanks
Thanks
Depends on the engine you are running, and whether or not it is built right and tuned. I would say in San Diego... not required under 2 liters.
Mike
Mike
Cool thanks Mike
But... If you go cruising in the mountains or desert areas, you might want one. It's relatively cheap insurance and will do no harm.
A properly tuned and built engine, with all the cooling tin tight and in place should run plenty cool in the mountains or the desert without external cooling. The exception being a large bore or stroker, setup for high output or rpm range. Many times an external cooler is used to mask problems caused by poor engine part combinations, assembly, or tuning. An external cooler can also damage an engine if not used with a proper thermostat setup, causing engine oil to never warm up to correct operating temperatures.
Mike
Mike
I had the same question when having mine built. I went without the first year, and then added it. I do have a stroker, though, and like to push it hard. In the 90's in a stop and go cruise situation, I decided that I wanted one. I would recommend having the engine set up for a full flow external oil filter. That way, adding the cooler is much easier later. That's what I did.
All of this is VERY GOOD info, but until you know exactly how hot it's running, you're no-where.
Ask around on here for someone in your area with a dipstick thermometer and ask to borrow it for a few days. That way, you'll have a better idea of your baseline and you can then calibrate your dash temp gauge with some idea of what's going on "back there". Mainely-Custom-By-Design in Maine has the dipstick units for about $50 bucks and they're very good.
For even less money you could get an electronic BBQ thermometer, straighten out the probe so it's straight, not curved, then stick it down the dipstick tube and mount the read-out somewhere. Make sure it doesn't go in any deeper than the original dipstick, as it might hit some spinning thing in there if it goes too deep. You'll still have to get out to read it (the cord is not long enough to reach the cockpit) but it's much better than not knowing.
OK, so a good operating range is about 180F to about 220F. I have a 2,110 with an external cooler and it'll hold at 200 as long as I'm moving, rising to 205F when I stop at a light.
gn
Ask around on here for someone in your area with a dipstick thermometer and ask to borrow it for a few days. That way, you'll have a better idea of your baseline and you can then calibrate your dash temp gauge with some idea of what's going on "back there". Mainely-Custom-By-Design in Maine has the dipstick units for about $50 bucks and they're very good.
For even less money you could get an electronic BBQ thermometer, straighten out the probe so it's straight, not curved, then stick it down the dipstick tube and mount the read-out somewhere. Make sure it doesn't go in any deeper than the original dipstick, as it might hit some spinning thing in there if it goes too deep. You'll still have to get out to read it (the cord is not long enough to reach the cockpit) but it's much better than not knowing.
OK, so a good operating range is about 180F to about 220F. I have a 2,110 with an external cooler and it'll hold at 200 as long as I'm moving, rising to 205F when I stop at a light.
gn
Every AirCooled vehicle should be fitted with oil temp an cylinder head temp instrumentation. If your oil temps run over 220, then you need additional oil cooling capability.
Otherwise it's like you are flying in the clouds with no instruments. Assume nothing and quantify everything.
Otherwise it's like you are flying in the clouds with no instruments. Assume nothing and quantify everything.
Some good point here. To put it all together:
Start by making sure the motor is in good tune. Make sure ALL the cooling tin is present and fitted properly. This includes the lower sled tins and heaterboxes; if running J tubes then there are "industrial tins" to take their place and keep the spent cooling airflow where it belongs (out underneath and behind the motor). The engine compartment should also be sealed so spent cooling air (and air warmed by the exaust) DOES NOT recirculate back into the motor. In a beetle, a tear in the engine compartment seal can drive the oil temp up 10' F or more (quoted from Gene Berg). Make sure there is adequate air supply INTO the engine compartment. A car will be fine just running aroung town but if extended highway trips cause oil temp problems then not enough air intake could be the culprit. As mentioned, proper instrumentation (oil temp and cylinder head temp) are essential to know what's going on. An extra oil cooler can have oil temps well under control while the heads are happily cooking themselves into oblivion.
More later...gotta go to work.
Start by making sure the motor is in good tune. Make sure ALL the cooling tin is present and fitted properly. This includes the lower sled tins and heaterboxes; if running J tubes then there are "industrial tins" to take their place and keep the spent cooling airflow where it belongs (out underneath and behind the motor). The engine compartment should also be sealed so spent cooling air (and air warmed by the exaust) DOES NOT recirculate back into the motor. In a beetle, a tear in the engine compartment seal can drive the oil temp up 10' F or more (quoted from Gene Berg). Make sure there is adequate air supply INTO the engine compartment. A car will be fine just running aroung town but if extended highway trips cause oil temp problems then not enough air intake could be the culprit. As mentioned, proper instrumentation (oil temp and cylinder head temp) are essential to know what's going on. An extra oil cooler can have oil temps well under control while the heads are happily cooking themselves into oblivion.
More later...gotta go to work.