How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

Day 30 - Things look hopeless. Decided to clean up the carcass a bit.

 

The first shot shows how the frame horns looked after I removed the engine and trans. The frame horns were CAKED with years of grime and grease. The surrounding area is littered with nuts, bolts, discarded tools and surgical gloves. 

 

 

The second shot shows the same area after I a good cleaning.

 

 

The final shots are after cleaned everything with a good detergent and hit it with some high temp primer and paint. In hindsight I wish I had used Satin or Matte Black.

 

 

 

Sorry for the horrible image quality. Cellphone camera in low light.

 

Today I will install the Kafer bar (most of it...) need to leave two bars off until the trans is back in place.

 

Then I need to clean up the wiring loom. Can't wait to get rid of the old drum set up. New e-brake cables and rear disks will really clean up the area.

 

Oh, some of you will notice that I still have the rather long and gangly full length fuel tube. Should shorten it down closer to the frame horns and run some fuel hose instead of that gnarly crooked tube? I saw Teby's set up and it looks a lot more sanitary.

Thanks for checking in,
Ted

Ted- Looks good! The gloss is nice because it wipes up better, so don't sweat it. I use an ice cream bucket for loose stuff and find it helps immensely. I've never seen the fuel line left like that, but then I haven't seen that many other Speedsters. Cutting it shorter, using fuel hose and putting the fuel filter in that area is probably the better way to go. Next time you see Teby could you get a pic? It's always interesting to see how other people have done things. What's the status on the gearbox?

Here is a link to an extensive "mental masterba...tion"  about the need for disk brakes.

I was on the fence when I asked the question, but now agree that rear disks are an improvement.  I originally posted the question based on the thought that "if you can lock up your rear drum brakes, how will having disks stop you any quicker?"  What convinced me was the fact that over heated rear brakes may not be able to lock up and would not help stop you at all if that was the case.

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...-a-need-talk-it-over

 

Ted, is your left rear tire rubbing on something? Maybe just the optics of a phone camera or my aging eyes?

Hehehe... It was on the garage floor and it picked up a bunch of dirt. There aren't any axles to bolt the hubs up to so they are just leaning up there for now.

Thanks for looking out for me,
Ted

Kafer bar 2/3rds of the way installed.  Need to wait until the trans is back in before I can wrap up the final install of the two rear bars. I also need to trim the rear trans mount to properly clear the clevis ends.

 

Maybe next I'll  install the new calipers, stainless lines, and emergency brake cables.

 

Need to stay busy until Ken is done with the trans.

Is there any sort of market for nearly new rear 67 drums, backing plates and cyls?

 

 

 

Ted

Ted- Sell them on the Samba. You won't get a lot for them, but they'll be out of your garage. I don't think the rear brakes are '67 only, but I could be wrong.

Ted, I'm in South San Jose, and I think one of my rear drums may be warped.  If they are compatible it ay be easiest for me to drive out and get them for a few bucks and lunch in Morgan Hill.  Mine is a 70 IRS pan.  Looking at parts on-line I think 65-67 rears may not work on a 70. 

Hello Ted:

 

Great project, and that last shot really shows the configuration of the fiberglass body especially as it relates to the engine firewall and the passanger compartment rear deck and rear seat area. 

 

If you have not installed something like Dynamat underneath the carpet in the rear passanger compartment area, did you ever consider installing it underneath the car in these areas now that they are exposed and easily gotten to while the engine and trans is out ? 

 

I only ask because I am thinking of doing this with my speedster, but the the major obsticle is engine removal.

 

Grant

Hello Grant:

 

With a little practice you'd be able to 'drop' your engine (like Gordon Nichols does) on your coffee break...

 

And I've seen video of two man teams in an 'Engine Drop Contest' that have it choreographed within a minute!!! 

Ted...re: the Kafer bar....did you get a stiffy when you saw the Mendeola site?

Ted's drums may be wide 5, while yours may be 4x130mm if they are both original to their respective pans, so make sure you know what you have. 

Yesterday I took the time to install a new fuel pump, distributor, the type 4 oil cooler, and the valve covers on the 1915. Maybe this week I'll get started on the rear disks.

 

I read Troy's thread on rear Disks. A common theme was that I needed to update my master cylinder to a 'big bore' unit. I have a second unit that came with the front disks. Does anyone know what part number I should be looking to install?

 

The Kafer bar is from Kevin at CoolRydes. It is a Mendeola unit. Super easy to install. Very high quality. Overkill for my motor, but that's why they call it madness.

 

I have considered adding dynamat to the rear seat area. My carpet isn't in the best shape. It's original CMC carpet from the early  90's. It's due to be replaced this winter. Once I pull the carpet I'll install the dynamat in the cabin area. I was talking with Anthony a little over a month ago about adding dynamat to the tin/fiberglass that engine surrounds the engine bay. The thinking would be to install a heat barrier to knock the engine bay temps down a bit. The A1 puts off a lot of  heat and it rises straight into the engine bay. I look forward to seeing if I can correct some of that.

 

I'm going to call Ken Porter today and see if he's going to have the trans completed this week. I'm hoping that he didn't have any unexpected surprises.

Ted

Ted- I've always thought that insulating the underside or the engine tin that goes over the exhaust would be beneficial; if you find a material that works let me know. I haven't taken the time to look yet. 

As a cheaper alternative to dynamat (at least for interior radiant barrier) I found this useful.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/USE...pe-8872AF6/202086180

 

 

I don't think that material will stand up, being so close to the exhaust. I assumed that I would need something more along the lines of being asbestos based for a heat barrier, being directly above the pipest.

Yeah, it's asphalt based so I would only use it on interior panels for radiant barrier/sound dampening.  Maybe on a firewall.  For the exhaust you can use an exhaust tape-wrap and/or an aluminum heat shield.

I just spoke with Ken Porter, in Eldorado Hills.

 

The trans is torn down and all of the machine work has been completed. Nothing too surprising inside the box. He's confident we'll be on track for me to pick it up on Friday. Sweeeet! I'm going to leave out of Morgan Hill early so I can get up there and back before traffic starts to suck.

 

Hard to imagine that it's possible that I may have the trans back in this coming weekend?!?

 

I guess I'd better figure out what I'm going to do about that Master Cylinder.

 

Ted

Excellent! Is the stock differential going back in it or are you putting in a Super-diff?