How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

Wow, Ted......   Once you get the parts sorted (often a PITA with this hobby), those wheels look absolutely fabulous on your car.  

 

Very little would get me to move away from my Fuchs wheels, but those would.

 

Great choice!

I agree Gordon. I saw an Emory Outlaw 356 at Watkins Glen this past September with those wheels, and they are fantastic.

 

Beautiful wheels 

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I'm debating shaving the fender lip a bit, but I don't want to lose the structural integrity / support the lip offers for that part of the fender. I'm thinking if I step down to a 1/4" spacer I may get enough room so I'd only have to nip off maybe a 1/8th inch. I could also do a 3/8 th inch spacer.

The wheel studs will be shortened from 75mm to 50mm.

At Jim's encouragement, I need to check both sides of the rear before committing to any spacers, because one side will be closer than the other.

Slow and steady wins the race ...

Ted, please help out;  why are the spacers needed?

       
       

Because racecar?  (/Ted hangs head in shame)

There isn't a technical reason to use them. The spacers just allow the wheels to 'look the part'.

Damn you, Al! With all of your logic and sensibility!

Ted, I love ya' man, you Have the madness, squared.

 

If you just lose the spacers is that really going to change the appearance much? 

 

I share your concerns about the idea of shaving the glass down. 

 Don't worry, Ted, it will look the part with or without the spacers.  Remember, what's important is getting them to clear the bodywork.

Can I try an eency weency spacer?... a wafer thin spacer?

 

/me kicks the dirt.

 

I'll get the correct length studs and regroup. 

 

I should really install the oil cooler and the other goodies instead of focusing on these silly race car upgrades. Function over form. 

 

Damn the madness, it'll get you every time.

Ted

Ted's mad I tell you.......just mad:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGrBVZD7sVw

 

Ted:

 

Re the Rubbing issue

What I would Recommend  ( and this advice came from the Nuckle Brothers)  A PLAYING CARD!    Remember when you use to put those on your bike  just right so it would hit the spokes to make that cool sound   well WA LAH!!    just an Idea

 

 

By the way  car looks great rims look good cant wait to see her in SLO... 

 

Tebs

Thanks Tebs!

 

So, this weekend I tore the car apart (stop me if you've heard this one before...)

  I feel like I"m always taking the darn thing off the road to do something. My Daughter even asked asked "NOW what are you doing?

 

Anyway, as I said in a different thread, I have to put a bigger pulley on the crank to keep the motor cooler at idle. While I had it all apart, I figured I would also install the oil cooler, the thermostat, Gene Berg oil pump cover, and the new hose / hose fittings.

 

Once I got the pulley out, I found that the case was cut for a sand seal. So the pulley I have isn't useable. I can get it cut down or I could just purchase a new pulley that is already cut for a sand seal.  Trying to decide if I really need the gene berg 'achiever' 3.5lb weighted pulley or not. Does it really do anything on a 1915? Al? Gordon? etc - what say you?

 

While I wait to make that decision I installed the oil cooler and mounted the oil filter in it's forever home. (I'll post photos tonight/tomorrow.) So far so good.

 

With the oil cooler, here is my end goal:

I have a thermostat fan switch on the outlet of the remote oil cooler.

 

What yahoo designed this part?:

 

There is no way to mount the stupid thing! I need to make a stirrup or horseshoe (exhaust bolt?) to lash it to the inner fender well. I made a nice wheel well doubler out of aluminum to add some extra rigidity and spread the load our across the entire area. I felt like it would be necessary due to the extra weight being hung on it.

 

Oh! While it's apart I'll also install that 'step stud' into the sump. Hopefully I'll fix that loose / drippy stud.

 

Once I figure out what to do with the pulley, I should be able to get this cream puff back on the road.

 

Oh, regarding the oil pump cover, I simply installed a new oil pump gasket and bolted it back up with the 'red seal' nuts. Should I have used any form of silicone sealer or gasket goop between the gasket and the pump cover? It's not too late, I can go back in there and put some RTV or whatever in there.

 

Thanks for checking in,

Ted

 

 

The oil pump cover gasket is one of the few places you don't want to use sealer....  Any excess that might be inside the pump body has the potential to cause problems and you also want a close fit between the pump rotors and the cover....  A standard diameter pulley should work well if the engine has not been built with the goal of over 120hp in mind...

 

Sounds like you should have it pretty well "bullet proofed" when you get it back together.....

 

Good luck and tell your daughter you are protecting her inheritance....  

Be sure not to cross the oil filter housing in and out hoses, there is a check ball valve in it and if the hoses are reversed you get no oil....From experience, I speak

Oh No! I swapped the two lines when I first set up the remote filter. I didn't have the clamps tightened down and it popped a line off of the pump. Very messy learning process. I have drawn 'red' and 'black' arrows on each fitting to make sure the hot is going / flowing properly. Once the oil comes out of the cooler, then everything is flowing through the 'black' or 'cold' fittings.

 

/fingers crossed that I get it right.

Ted

 

On the side with the little flange mine was labeled 'hot' on one side and 'cold' on the other. The way I understand this part - it shouldn't matter.  Why? Under temps under 180, the bypass operates in a passive manner. It will allow some oil to flow into the cooler at all times. Only after the 180* is reached will the thermostat valve snap over and force all oil through the cooler.

 

Position the housing the way you see it below and you should be okay. Notice how the bypass valve has one 'fat' end and one 'skinny' end' with the hoses coming in from each side. Looks like the 'cool' side is the side closest to the fat end.

 

Hope this helps,

Ted

Re the Berg Achiever crank pulley:  IIRC, that is an all-steel pulley, somewhat heavier than a machined Billet aluminum pulley, with the intent that it acts like an harmonic balancer on the crankshaft.  American engines, especially V8s, have been running harmonic balancers for decades, so they know that they work, especially with some of the strange crankshafts that came out of Detroit over the years.

 

If you already have a balanced engine, 1915cc or less, and you don't expect to spend much time between 5,500-7,000 rpm, then in my opinion an harmonic balancer crank pulley would be a waste of money.  For that RPM range, it would be almost as good to run a stock, GERMAN, steel pulley, but then you would lose the degree wheel which can be handy (of course, you could also just mark a stock pulley at 30 degrees BTDC with a file....)

 

If, otoh, you intend to take it racing and wish to protect the pulley end bearing from distorting the case after, say, 100,000 miles (somewhat farther than you'll probably drive this car) then go ahead and buy an "Achiever" to fit your sand seal.

Thank you, Gordon. I appreciate the clarity you've provided.

 

Off to get a standard sized sand seal pulley.

 

Ted

I'd be a customer for a true harmonic dampener pulley. A counterweighted crank is by no means "balanced", and a dampener is just a good idea. I've never been gung-ho on the Berg solid chunk 'o metal-- but if I had one, I'd certainly do what it took to use it.

 

My opinion only. That and a buck will buy you a coffee at McDs.

I hear you large on that, Stan. Too many years ago I cut a VW engine in half to make a two cylinder engine for a Fisher FP-2 airplane. I had my local machinist cut the crank at the right spot and weld on the "recommended" counterweights.

 

Took the unusual crank to my unusual auto machine shop for balancing. $45 later they said come pick it up. Balanced to 7,500 rpm. Yow. I flew it for years...nice and smooth.