How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

 

It never dawned on me that those little Setrab oil cooling radiators were that expensive...My VS has two, each with a fan, tucked up under the rear of the wheel wells...and other than once checking the electrical connections I've never given them a second thought.

 

In fact, I've never heard the fans working, but the oil has never read above 180 degrees. Oil temp in the sump is checked with an instant reading  digital kitchen meat thermometer...Seven dollars at Walmart.

Ted:

 

Remember that when the engine is running there is quite a lot of air turbulance in the crankcase from all of the moving parts in there.  When you remove the oil filler cap you should see/feel a rapid series of pulsations (4 each second or so at idle) and, overall, it should have a very slight positive pressure - it's not gonna blow your hand off if you put your palm over the opening, but you should feel a wee bit of pressure and pulsing on your palm.  When you remove your palm it should not give a big blast like doing the same to the end of a tailpipe.

 

On the oil, every engine I have ever rebuilt (and everyone else, too, for that matter) will quickly wear in the crankshaft bearings and polish the cylinder walls with the rings.  That's all part of the "break-in process And happens over the first 1,000 or so miles.  This initial wear deposits metal dust in the oil.  THAT is what you're seeing in the first three oil changes during break-in.  I always change the oil at 100, 300 and 1,000 miles because that's what I was told to do when I was a kid.  Each of those changes will show decreasing amounts of dust shimmer until somewhere around 3,000 miles or so (the last break-in change and then repeat every 3,000) it should have finally finished the break-in process and you're good to go.

 

This sound like what you're seeing??

 

and you may have stated this earlier and I missed it, but how many miles are on this engine??

Every V-8 I've built, or had built, 'break-in' oil was recommended for the first 100mi. or so, never keeping the engine at a constant rpm, then change the oil to whatever you plan on using... in 300mi. change it again. Somewhere around the 1,000mi mark or in 6mos if the car is not run often change once again. Then just do routine oil changes, you really need to pay attention to the oil especially if the vehicle sits for long periods of time between use. I change oil in all our 'toy' cars about every 6 months. Been doing this for years and it seems to work.

 

If a car is not run very often you can build up condensation in the block very quickly depending upon your climate.

Hey Gang, the motor has less than 1000 miles. I called the builder and asked a few questions. Turns out it was a little more than 'just broken in'. He built it, the buyer went a different way, so he broke it in , then put it in a bug and drove from Napa to Sacramento and back. Then he pulled it and sold me the long block. I had a few choice words after he changed bluish story. Regardless, it's most likely just breaking in. At Least that is what I'm hoping.

I pulled the crank pulley today. Found that sand seal had spun in the case. The oil leak was from between Tue case and the seal. I replaced it with one which was .01 larger. I put a little assembly lube on the crank pulley neck.

I'll check the valves tomorrow morning. I should go pull the valves covers and ready them for new gaskets so the goo can dry overnight.

Valves are all good. Power is good. Oil splash is nil.

I changed out the spun seal and took her for a drive this morning. Just a small shake down cruze. Got the oil good and warm and ran it through the paces. Brought her home and parked in the garage over a sheet of butcher paper.  Not a single drop of oil.

I think I finally skinned this one. Phew!!!

What's next? Front end alignment and then I'll switch over to the Tecno's.

Ted;

 

Is this on a new oil change?

 

Art

Yup. All new oil. New oil filter, etc.

It's been a while since I've done any improvements to the speedster. Today I decided I needed to address the gap between the rear subframe and the body. No sense in worrying about sealing the engine compartment if that rear gap is still wide open. I was always worried that  hot air off the exhaust could boil up into the engine compartment from that 3" gap between the rear body and the boxed subframe.

I made a few cardboard templates and then went to town with some aluminum and pop rivets. 76 rivets and $30.00 of aluminum later. Now I can get an extra H seal and close 'er up back there.

Not bad for a few hours work 'eh? Maybe I'll paint it black.

Lookin' really good, Ted! For the next 2-3 valve adjustments, record how much each valve moves; if 2 valves (opposite sides, sharing a cam lobe) are requiring more adjustment than the others, then you know something's up. Until then, have fun! Al

Ted, that looks really good! From the crispness of the 'L' bends I take it you have a sheet metal break? or at least access to one.

 

I've thought of doing the same thing, obtaining the aluminum sheet, etc is easy but no one I know has a portable break to make the bends that I could borrow for awhile. I've tried doing it with wood blocks ,etc. yet it just doesn't come out looking as good as using a break.

Just a thought here, maybe one of your local aluminum gutter installers wouldn't mind you using their brake either on the job site or after hours.

I wish I had a break! That is all cut and riveted with a 1/16th thcick 90 degree L bracket at each bend. I'm contemplating sweating in some alumabond on the joints. Not sure it's necessary. I popped a 1/8 rivet every two inches. Should be good. I'm going to back parts of it with light weight dynamat to help keep the hot side hot and the cool side cool. 

Ted

hot side hot and cool side cool is the best, you vcan do for your air cooled engine. May be more important than an aditional cooler, so thumbs up for your work!

I'm told Dynamat is no good for exterior use.  I've been steered to Lizard Skin if it's out in the elements, what ever that is.  Have yet to try it.  Also, don't let it get too hot; is exhaust close to the metal here??

what is this... Lizard Skin?

 

The exhaust isn't too close. There is already a fiberglass sheet that seals up the lower portion (around the motor / next to the engine tins. The aluminum is just the 'second layer' of protection around the back end there. The upper shelf is maybe.. 8-10" from the exhaust? Possibly more? Good call tho'.  I'd hate to clean THAT mess up.

 

Ted

Ted, DO NOT use Dynamat in this situation it is a sound deadener not a heat barrier...It will melt! then you'll have a real mess. As Frazoo said use Lizard Skin heat barrier or similar. You want something that will reflect heat and prevent heat intrusion...Dynamat will not cut it!

 

TED :    I heard that Terry Nuckles,  has a friend that has a cousin that has a best friend  who has a NASA connection  See if they have any shuttle tiles left over...   

 

Talking heat protection    THERE YA GO!!   by the way  cant wait to see the beast!!

 

Tebs

http://www.lizardskin.com/

Ted:

 

I had the same fear of hot air incursion so I made almost exactly the same thing out of a single piece of metal, but I also made up an el-cheapo press brake with a couple of pieces of hinged hardwood to make the bends.  

 

Mine covers the rear area almost the same - it sits on top of the rear of the horse-shoe shaped rear frame member and rests on top of the rear engine tin with enough give to allow for engine rocking and is sealed along the engine tin with weatherstrip tape.  

 

It kips up at each end (left/right) to close up a hole on each side.  It is made of HVAC galvanized sheet metal and held to the frame with 10-32 screws every foot or so.  I sealed it along the inside of the body with a thick piece of closed-cell foam tape (used for storm door weatherstrip) with a simple knife-cut halfway through and it's then pressed onto the rear of the metal piece to seal it.  The end result is a close approximation of what Porsche had on the 356's (as is yours, now).

 

I wouldn't get too crazy about double insulating or double layering over the exhaust pipes/muffler and all that - that simple piece of sheetmetal, along with good sealing around all of the engine tins, should really do the trick for you.

 

gn