I bet Fastenal here in Morgan Hill has what I need.
I just received a PILE of sweet black AN -8 fittings. Can't wait until after baseball tomorrow.
Car is running. Shifting. Stopping. Cooling... But not charging. Grrr!! Red light stays on the dash no matter how many rpms I throw at it.
Front is too low by anoit 3/4 of an inch. Not super excited about that.
Gears are super tight. Need to sort that out
, , , , 
You remembered the tranny ground strap, right?
No. I figured it was gounded via the solid front tranny mount. Think that could be it?
Maybe yes, maybe no, but it's a good thing to eliminate as a possible cause.
All trannies need a strap LOL.
Seriously, I'd put one or three on. And I have a solid trans mount as well, via my PBS nosecone(cable shifter thingy). I put one ground from nosecone bolt to chassis(solid engine mount bolt). Battery ground cable attaches there as well. Also I have a copper braid that jumps the rubber from trans mount to cradle.
If your lights and ignition work maybe your regulator wires are suspect, if all grounds are good. Mine was charging but the idiot light wouldn't go off(defective regulator) so check with a voltmeter.
did you excite the field windings? While the engine is running, touch the dash light wire to a ground. The light should go off, the engine rpms will actually dip for a second while the alternator starts, well, alternating.
Is the dash light an LED? I had to add a resistor in parallel with the LED bulb.
Michael McKelvey posted:Is the dash light an LED? I had to add a resistor in parallel with the LED bulb.
No. Standard bulb.
Alternator test:
Confirm ground from trans to chassis,
Connect a test light to 12 (B+) terminal on the alternator and the other end to ground the light should come on.
Now connect the test light to the (61) terminal on the alternator and the other end to the B+ terminal, the light should come on.... start and rev the engine above 1200 rpm's the light should go off
With the engine running and above 1200 rpm's check the voltage , it should read about 13.8 volts. ...........let us know what happens .
Ed - I thought you only had to polarize/excite the windings of a generator. Do you you do the same for an alternator?
Alan - this is a 2 wire Alternator. I will test this in a few days. I'm in meetings until late tonight. I assume 61 is the blue wire to the male spade. 12, is 12V (formerly terminal 30) from the starter.
I will throw on a new ground strap. The old trans had one. I didn't install one on the Berg because it has the solid mount up front. I assumed that would be enough. That... and the fact that the car started... I figured I was good.
Thanks for the info!
Ted
I assume 61 is the blue wire to the male spade. 12, is 12V (formerly terminal 30) from the starter. .....Yes ~
Yes, Alternators can lose their "excite" magnetic field, similar to generators.
Here's a short paper on getting it back:
Thanks, Gordon! That article says to flash the R terminal with 12V. This alternator only has two wires. One has 12V from the starter. The other terminal has a blue wire plugged into it. I unplug it and the dash light goes out. Oh, there is also a screw on the outside of the alternator body. I assume that's ground of some sort.
Which of these would be the equivalent of R? I assume R is 'regulated' or 'regulator'. Would that the blue wire? (formerly noted as terminal 61?)
The "R" terminal on a Delco-Remy alternator is the same as the "D+" terminal on your Bosch or Bosch equivalent. I should not mean "Regulator" because the regulator is built in to the alternator housing - there is no separate regulator and I don't know what the "R" means in Delco-Remy-Speak. Why the hell do the Bosch guys call the +12Volt terminal "30"?? I dunno. They prob'ly have a decent engineer-like reason, like Radio operators signing off with "73 " (Best Regards) or "88" (Love and Kisses). For this episode, "R" = "D+"="Blue Wire".
When you touch the B+ and D+ terminals together with a wire (those two on the top of your alternator) even for just an instant, you momentarily create a magnetic field that remains when you remove the wire because the charge creates that field in a ferrous (iron) core within the alternator which holds that "charge". That magnetic field is what begins to generate a voltage field when the alternator begins to turn. Because the bulb is attached to the D+ and the battery is ALWAYS connected to the B+ terminal, that magnetic field is maintained seemingly forever, unless the battery is disconnected for a looooooooooong period of time, which then sometimes allows the magnetic field to collapse (actually, it dissipates or weakens over time until it is no longer strong enough to generate the state changes inside of the alternator to cause it to generate voltage). Touching those two terminals together, even for an instant, re-institutes that field to allow the alternator to start producing electricity. Even to a lot of seasoned engineers, it is almost like magic.
Its magic! I did what Ed and Gordon suggested. Started it. Nothing. Light staued on. Hooked up a test light like Dr. Clock suggested and it did exactly what he said it would do. Then the light went out. I turned of thw car and restarted it. Works like a charm.
So.... WHAT'S IT DRIVE LIKE??? (guess he hasn't come back home yet...)
Oh, I had meetings until 10pm tonight. Tomorrow I work late again then I leave Wednesday at 6am for a business trip. I need a new throttle and clutch cable. I wont get to drive it until Saturday... If i get the new cables.
I think im going to drop the beam and elongate the adjuster holes so i can raise the front end up an inch or so. The drop spindles and the heavier battery lowered the front car too much.
So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
Glad you got it charging! It does seem like Magic, doesn't it?
It's easy for me to offer advice, and sometimes it even works out!
No charge for the tossed Chicken Bones, either.
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DannyP posted:So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
I gave them to Troy with the old discs! Maybe i forgot to tighten the select a drop?
thankfully the driving season is almost year round in northern CA........
Ha! Good point. I'm not too concerned about this driving season. I've been driving the A.
I've been kicking around the idea of getting the car painted this year, so we'll see what happens next.
While troubleshooting my soggy clutch I found out that my clutch tube is broken free from the front and rear mounts. I need someone with a welder to come bail me out. Maybe I haul it to Ken Jansen to have him fix it.
Pooooop!!
An alternate fix ( if you know exactly were they are broke) you can drill a hole above and below the tube secure the tube with a hose clamp ..not the best method but functional.
Look at the driver side of the tunnel for original spot welds for the tube. Cut a slot there. Remove the shifterand push the original tab out and re-weld.
Ok...here's an Ozzy..."no more tears" approach and it's easy and permanent.
The Bowden tube is at the rear most part of the clutch cable assembly and it puts forward pressure on the clutch cable tube which is welded in several places along the tunnel and also at the most aft place where that tube exits the body. ( aft end of tunnel ) . These welds can fail and make your clutch go US. Many cures may be suggested.
Here's an easy fix. Imagine if you could weld up a simple fitting that would prevent the front end of the Bowden tube from putting any forward pressure on the clutch cable tube, welds broken or not ?
Check this simple fitting out that I developed a few years back. I photo'd it badly because here you see it left to right and really it should go in the opposite direction.
Weld a small tube that the front end of the Bowden tube will slip over onto to a small cross bar that will lean against the aft end of the bodywork and that will prevent any forward motion of the tube, thus making the clutch work properly when any or all welds are in anywhere in the tunnel. No more tears and this method has been in action for many miles.
$59.99 US ( plus HST in Canada ) painted , or powder coated add only $30.00 more shipped anywhere in North America free OR make it yourself for $2.00.
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TRP posted:DannyP posted:So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
I gave them to Troy with the old discs! Maybe i forgot to tighten the select a drop?
@TRP I have a set if needed/wanted
Bill Prout posted:TRP posted:DannyP posted:So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
I gave them to Troy with the old discs! Maybe i forgot to tighten the select a drop?
@TRP I have a set if needed/wanted
Hey Bill,
Thank you for the offer. Troy packaged my originals up and sent them out to me.
I just need tonswap em out and then fix up this clutch tube.
Tow it up in the morning. In at 8 and should be done before noon
@Anthony
I hear you, buddy. I'm buried with events for Corinne and Austin (my children). Hopefully things will slow down in a few weeks. I'd like to start driving the car again. I feel like it's been down since August of 2017! That reminds me!... I need to harass Mike Lempert about my replacement wheel.
Ted
I understand, Daughter played softball every weekend......if you change your mind we can always get it done!
Okay! I think the clutch problem is solved. Tube is all welded back in place. Holes patched. I also found that the little tapered bolt was not fully engaging with the detent in the transmission shift rod. This was creating a bunch of slop. That's all fixed.
Next up... "The why so low?" needs to be addressed. After that... Should be nearly ready for paint and body!
Okay! I uninstalled the drop spindles and installed the standard spindles. In that process I realized the I hadn't reset the ride height to as high as it could go. Do I cranked the beam to the maximum height I could. I found I now had 2 inches between the top of the tire and the wheel arch. * huge sigh * I found my problem. I went ahead and uninstalled the standard spindles and reinstalled the drop spindles. The car now sits at a nice 23 1/8" to the top of the wheel arch. It has a ton of downward travel before the shocks and ball joints botrom out .Good enough for me. No more riding like a covered wagon. Yay!
I drove it a few miles yesterday. Everything works as it should. Trans is very tight. I also still have some air in the lines as the breaks are weak.
Today I eyeballed the alignment. 1/8" to 3/16" of toe out. That will get me to the alignment shop. I raised the rear up a 1/2" or so. So the car sits level. Maybe a touch nose down.
Need to adjust the clutch a bit and reinstall the engine tins.
After all that, it will be driveable again. Yay!
Still waiting on my replacement wheel from Mike.
Need to find a paint shop I can trust. Stone Gray or Black? Maybe the metallic silver blue?
.Alignment is eyeballed. 1/8" to 3/16" of toe.... IN.
Too bad to you are on the left coast, I 've been using the same painter in PA that does show quality at half the price.
5710 Stone Grey
Toe out is for autocross. I use 1/16" to 1/8" toe IN!!!!!!
Oh man. LOL. Thanks, guys. I'll fix that today.