How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Tremont, IL posted:

Ted,

 

Regarding the gearing: go nuts (don't cheap out here). I'd never leave the stock 1-2 main-shaft, unless you plan to be racing Teby for pinks as he suggests-- otherwise, first is utterly useless. I'd go with a longer 1-2 set and keep the rest nice and tight. Stick with the .89/3.88 final drive. Al's right about the highway, but getting a "perfect" highway gear is really, really hard. I had a .82/3.88 with a 2110-- you won't like it. The .89/3.44 is not perfect, but it's close enough for rock-n-roll.

Why do you say he won't like the .82/3.88 combo when the .89/3.44 is 2mph longer (at 3500rpm)? Is it the rpm drop from (stock) 3rd gear? Insert the .82 for 5th in gearstack #2 and the recovery rpm is still 2550 (much higher than the stock 2400rpm).

I sold all of my other motors. I only have the lil-2054.

Just spoke with Berg.  The selector rods are back from heat treat. The shafts are coming back. The intermediate housings are in line for the CNC machine. We are about 5 weeks out for the parts. Then... it would all go to the builder.  Doing the math with the assumed 8-12 weeks at the builder... I'm guessing May/June. Most likely won't have the 5 speed in time for the West Coast SLO meet.

I'll guess I will start preparing to install the 2054. 

Anything special I should know about installing an electronic fuel pump?

Put it as close to the tank as practical.  Put a decent fuel filter in the line between the tank and pump.  Use good hose and clamps.  That's about it.

Gordon Nichols posted:

Put it as close to the tank as practical.  Put a decent fuel filter in the line between the tank and pump.  Use good hose and clamps.  That's about it.

Grab 12v from the hot side of the starter?

TRP posted:

I sold all of my other motors. I only have the lil-2054.

Just spoke with Berg.  The selector rods are back from heat treat. The shafts are coming back. The intermediate housings are in line for the CNC machine. We are about 5 weeks out for the parts. Then... it would all go to the builder.  Doing the math with the assumed 8-12 weeks at the builder... I'm guessing May/June. Most likely won't have the 5 speed in time for the West Coast SLO meet.

I'll guess I will start preparing to install the 2054. 

Anything special I should know about installing an electronic fuel pump?

If your guy has all the stuff (and he's allotted the time) when he starts there's no reason your transaxle couldn't be done in a week or 2.  Talk to whoever you need to and make the necessary gearing choices so every thing is ready when he starts. If you need another opinion as to what you should do for ratios, call me in the evening. I'll send you my land line # via dialog. Al

ALB posted:

Why do you say he won't like the .82/3.88 combo when the .89/3.44 is 2mph longer (at 3500rpm)? Is it the rpm drop from (stock) 3rd gear? Insert the .82 for 5th in gearstack #2 and the recovery rpm is still 2550 (much higher than the stock 2400rpm).

It was a slip of the finger, Al. That should have read, "The .89/3.88 is not perfect, but it's close enough for rock-n-roll."

The one combo I've never had was the .89/3.44, for the reason you stated. A .82/3.88 was just too long, even for a flat-lander with a 2110. It was ROUGH to shift into 4th going less than 60 or so. That's a lot of tugging on the shifter for normal driving.

Ted lives in a place where there are mountains. If I did, I'd think the .89/3.88 would be as long as I'd want to go (... unless somebody came up with a 6 speed).

i always ran 2 filters, one right before electric fuel pump by tank and another one on the backside of firewall

I've got the .89/3:88 now with my 2,110.  Lots of little to medium hills nearby and it feels fine, but likes it better above 55mph.  Did one trip into Southern Vermont to visit some relatives late last summer and she did just fine in the hills north out of Brattleboro, VT and up into the mountains (speed limit 60+) near the ski resorts.  I'm quite pleased with it, but you can always yearn for a 5-speed.  

.89/3:44 here

TRP posted:

I sold all of my other motors. I only have the lil-2054.

 

Say it ain't so, Ted.

You need an "anchor motor". Everybody needs a spare at one time or another. If you are truly ill, you might need a couple of 'em. 

An Anchor Motor?..."Everyone needs a spare"!!!

Great rationalization to justify the greasy clutter I've accumulated. I like that...Thank you, Stan.

You are most welcome, Mr. Berry.

Ha! I had a couple. I decided to lighten the clutter in the garage. I'm sure I will regret not keeping at least one of them. 

Should I wire up the fuel pump to a relay that shuts off during cranking/starting? I still need to wire the Setrab cooling fan to a relay so that it's off when I'm starting the car. 

What fuel pressure for dual Weber 44's?

Ted

IDF's ; 3.0-->3.5

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Tremont, IL posted:

ALB posted:

Why do you say he won't like the .82/3.88 combo when the .89/3.44 is 2mph longer (at 3500rpm)? Is it the rpm drop from (stock) 3rd gear? Insert the .82 for 5th in gearstack #2 and the recovery rpm is still 2550 (much higher than the stock 2400rpm).

 

It was a slip of the finger, Al. That should have read, "The .89/3.88 is not perfect, but it's close enough for rock-n-roll."

The one combo I've never had was the .89/3.44, for the reason you stated. A .82/3.88 was just too long, even for a flat-lander with a 2110. It was ROUGH to shift into 4th going less than 60 or so. That's a lot of tugging on the shifter for normal driving.

Ted lives in a place where there are mountains. If I did, I'd think the .89/3.88 would be as long as I'd want to go (... unless somebody came up with a 6 speed).

Stan- Are you saying the .82/3.88 final drive was too long? (I thought you would have loved that going cross the continent like you have) Or was the stock 3rd- .82 spacing too wide? (which is why you didn't like to shift into 4th doing less than 60mph)

Al,  I had that combo in my IM and I didn't like it one bit.  With the long .82 3rd gear I found I couldn't find a 'sweet spot' when driving around the 80 kph (50 mph) mark.   It was too high for 3rd and too low for 4th.

Also, I found the rpm drop, when shifting from 3rd to 4th, to be annoying, unless I revved the crap out of 3rd gear.

Ron I am not sure if I got the right info, but on my old IM 3:44 I did find that the 3rd gear sometimes in the 60-80kph was a bit high revving and then the 4th was a bit too low so that was a bit of annoying riding one of my favourite roads, but I liked the 4th for highway cruising so I just accepted or I got used to it.   I always longed for a 5th, which is what I have now in my new build.  I also feel that it is impossible to try a lot of different ratios so best guess is what you usually decide on, depending on advice but in the end you might have to build 4 trannies before you get the one you liked if you have that privelege or opportunity.  I guess for that your name has to be Stanislaw Ray

I'm not sure I have the patience / time to build 4 gearboxes. 

My goals would be to have a first gear that is usable and the ability to cruise at 75mph on the highway. With my existing 4 speed, I have a 3.78 main shaft and a 3.88 R&P. I'm running the standard old stock 67 sedan gearing with 185/65's. I feel like I don't get but 25-30 feet before I'm shifting into second. I understand that aftermarket first, second, third and fourth gears get expensive, real quickly. 

Any suggestions on which tubing flair tool to purchase? I need to flair the fuel line ends to 37 degrees (AN fittings). I'd like to avoid buying a 120.00 tool I might use 6 times.  Is that something you can rent?

Ted

Ron O posted:

Al,  I had that combo in my IM and I didn't like it one bit.  With the long .82 3rd gear I found I couldn't find a 'sweet spot' when driving around the 80 kph (50 mph) mark.   It was too high for 3rd and too low for 4th.

Also, I found the rpm drop, when shifting from 3rd to 4th, to be annoying, unless I revved the crap out of 3rd gear.

^ that one.

I had the .82/3.88 and wanted to love it (really I did), but just couldn't, for all the reasons Ron gave. You'd be surprised how many times you are called upon to drive 50-60 mph.

That stupid gear was what sent my little train off the rails around the bend where nobody could see me. I so wanted it to work, and I felt that it was a matter of too little torque (in a 2110 with an FK43 and good heads, mind you).

vwracerdave over on TheSamba told me I didn't have an engine problem, I had a transaxle gearing problem. It made me mad so I built the barroom brawler 2332. It was still funky to drive 50-60 mph.

Swapping the .82 for a .89 with the 3.88 was really pretty close to perfect, but I wanted to be daddy long-legs, so I ended up splitting the difference with a .93/3.44. Now THAT'S a perfect highway gear, and with a 2276 I can pull off 50-60 mph easily in 4th.

... but honestly the .89/3.88 is probably better for 99% of the guys out there. It's long enough for a highway, as long as you aren't driving 85+ MPH for thousands of miles at a time.

TRP posted:

 

Any suggestions on which tubing flair tool to purchase? I need to flair the fuel line ends to 37 degrees (AN fittings). I'd like to avoid buying a 120.00 tool I might use 6 times.  Is that something you can rent?

Ted

What material are you flaring? Don't tell anybody I said this, but if it's a soft metal like copper or AL, you can do what po' folks do and just cut a flare with a 45* tool, then tighten it on a steel AN fitting. The steel fitting will act as a mandrel and get you where you need to be. Then you can spin off the steel fitting and put your line on your AL fitting. This won't work on a hard line like Stainless, but it'll be just fine if you are only cutting half a dozen flares or so.

I did it for my oil cooler and Mocal bypass filter base and it works great. I may be a lot of things you don't want to be, but I AM a pipefitter. Almost nobody realizes that the flares really do conform to the fittings.