How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

No SuperDiff. I just didn't see the need for the added expense. I had a beef-a-diff and some 10 tooth spider gears installed with 15 tooth side gears. Beefed up side plates and a heavy duty hockey stick. Other than that - welded up 3rd and 4th and threw in some steel forks.

 

Something I noticed while working on the 1915 last night - one of the elephant feet wasn't centered on the valve stem. I will try to get a photo of it this evening. Maybe you guys can tell me if I need to get a set of shims and move it over another 1/8" or so?  Anything I should worry about?

 

Anybody know where I can get some heat shield like this?

 

 

 

Thanks

Ted

Here are the shots of the 'elephant feet'. The first one that is really off center is the second from the left below. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The other one that is just a wee bit off is the one in the center below. It's just on the edge of the valve head. Not too bad really, but not centered.

 

 

Do I need to order some shims to adjust them over a bit or are they fine as they are?

Thanks

Ted

I'm not sure if it is just my computer but the picture is missing.

How about this one?

Now it's there.

Thanks!

Ted- the adjusters shouldn't be exactly "centered" on the valve stem; they're supposed to be slightly offset to promote the valves spinning a little every time they're lifted and let down. If one is way off to one side, then shim it over a bit, even if it means taking a little off the side of the rocker.

 

PS- Looking at the pics above (hadn't seen them before), I'd say the top one could stand to be moved just a bit; but make sure it's still not quite centered.

I bought a rocker arm shim set from CB. It should be here in a few days. I'll go ahead and adjust them a bit and make sure they are ever so slightly off center. I'm strongly considering the 1.25:1 rockers since I'm going to have the rockers out anyway. Not sure if I really want to try figure out push rod geometry or not. While I was there I picked up a new sump plate for the 1915. I got one with the center drain. This is only after buying a replacement Clyde's buggies sump plate and the super screen. About 45 bucks wasted. Maybe I can put them on 'The Samba' and move 'em on down the line. Combined those are the same price as the new sump plate.

 

The last thing I need to purchase for the 1915 install is the temp shield for the two oil lines that pass close to the exhaust header. I ordered the oil cooler from Carey this morning. 

 

Another day. Another parts order.

 

The madness is full blown at this point. I blame ALB and MUSBJIM.

I am honored that you would consider me worthy of such company

And, you're welcome!

So, when we meet, does that mean you'll be buying the first drinks?

Ted...how do we inflate your Avatar ? Is that Annaliese ?

LOL - No. That's Audrey Hepburn. It's a colorized photo of one of her old photos.  I saw the image in color the other day and it was only then that I realized how stunning she was.  So much more class than the tramps in Hollywood today.

 

 

 

Ted

 

 

Colorized, eh ? You don't hear that too often. The young Lads on this list likely would not know what that means. We've got an old VHS movie at home called Captains of the Clouds starring James Cagney and a few other notables filmed mostly in Canada and our home town, Ottawa too. WW2 stuff about the BCATP. Loose filming, shoddy prop control / cheating a bit. EG...they showed a bush pilot flying a Fairchild 71 in one part and that was a plane with a single pilot seat in front, two buckets side by side behind with a bench for two behind that.

 

The plane took off and when the camera got in, Cagney was at the stick flying the airplane talking to the other actor ....sitting right beside him...the whole "cockpit"  was likely sitting on a hay wagon in the studio getting pushed around by Hepburn wannabees.

She co-stared with a TD (and Albert Finney) in "Two for the Road." Which was a grown-up movie.

The transmission is home and in the garage. Maybe this weekend I'll get get put back in the car.

 

Glad to have it home.

Hey Ted. Looks like you are going through same thing I just did..

it was a month as well cleand the hell out of my car before re installing the trans and engine if you need any ideas or help let me know....

 

I worked on my car with Scott he made me clean every nut and bolt. Lol. If it looked bad we simply replaced it   We replaced a lot of hardware... 

 

or pics

tebs

Installed a new master cylinder today. In and out in 30 minutes. I put if off and dreaded it for no reason! While I was down there found a torn boot on the lower ball joint. Pulled the arm out to get a new one installed. Found the needle bearing on that arm was completely frozen. Cleaned it and put it back in. I suppose this would be the appropriate time to do check all four of them... before I get it realigned.

 

This afternoon I need to finish bending up the rear lines and then I can refill the system and bleed the air out.

 

Also picked up a case of Brad Penn. Once the Setrab arrives this week, I can start plumbing the oil system and get the motor back in.

 

I should really post some photos of the progress... I'm just a messy mechanic and the only photos I took had pretty messy garage floor. Littered with tools and rags.

 

 

 

Ted

Looking very good.

Thanks Ed!

 

I'm kind of torn at this point. At this point I have a few options I could go with:

• I could rush it and put the 1600 back in and be on the road next weekend. It could be today, but I have the front end also pulled apart to get a ball joint replaced. 
• I could take a few more weeks and get the 1915 in there.
• Or I could give in and assume it'll be off the road until the spring and take some time to do up a nice firewall treatment and really detail out the engine bay. Before putting the 1915 in there.

 

There is another development to consider - I have two sets of Kadrons. A set with less than a year on them. They are set up for the 1600. I have the venturis and the jets to 'upgrade' those for the 1915. I also have a set of early early Kadrons with the "Mariner" guild mark on them. Those need to be rebuilt. I'm not sure which way to go with those. Do I use them on the 1600 or the 1915? It's a toss up. My thought was to use the older carbs on the 1600 because it's set up to look like a 1600 Super motor anyway (with the 356 oil filter, etc.)

 

Too many options. Madness for sure. 

Ted

Hey Ted.  

 

Look great. Nice a clean shiney and new!!  Can't wait to see it!! 

 

Yes its important to clean and fix while you are there (so to speak). It may drag the project on but your better off in the long run..  While. I was working on my car Scott kept reminding me of the importance of Check, Clean, and replace..  Most of the time it was replace.. I had not been under my car as intensely as I should have been..  So a massive clean up was in order. I'll send pics of it,  Super clean.  

 

Also helps to refresh the paint in areas that can be seen ie engine compartment..

 

By the way. I know you will need new heater box hose. You can get it at Napa its part #815-5008. Comes in 6ft leangth  you need two..   

 

Looks great Ted..  Wish I lived closer I'd come help!! 

 

Tebs

 

Ted, you're doing a fine job transforming your Speedster. What's it ben since you joined the madness? 12 months or so?

Thanks Rich & Teby.

 

I picked up the car in late March of 2014. Almost nothing I've done 'had to be' done. I just kind of went 'mad' with upgrades. I was thinking about it this morning, I've done a LOT of work on the car. For a change, most of it was mechanical and not cosmetic. With past cars it was always paint and interior... with mechanical items only as necessary. It's amazing what age does to you.

 

Teby  -  Heaters are for skinny people.  I don't have heater boxes or any sort of forced air heat. I may put in seat heaters eventually, but for now - I bundle up.

 

 

Good point on the engine compartment. I'll keep at it. Need to remind myself that it doesn't NEED to be on the road. I'd just like for it to be.

 

The rest of you need to get out there and drive.   

Greg - if I can almost totally rebuild the mechanicals of my car in less than a year, you should be able to get yours on the road. Yes... that's right... I called you out AGAIN.  

 

Ted

Ted,

 

Finish the car EXACTLY as you want it to be.  That means don't rush to put it back together then say, "Damn, I wish I would have........."  Everything is apart right now and there is no better time to do the upgrades you want. Otherwise you'll have to do it all over again next fall/winter after you are disappointed you didn't do it to your liking the first time.

 

Robert

BTW, that rear disc setup looks awesome. 

Work like that was something I did for a number of years on my cars.  Fortunately, I'm at the place where I no longer care to do it, and these days I can pay someone to do it.

 

But, I still admire someone who can, and who does it well.  Brings back a lot of memories.

 

Looks great!

 

This weekend was sort of productive. I managed to get the trans axle filled up with gear oil, the brake lines bent and installed, removed the old lines/reservoir, filled the brake system full of fluid, cut and installed the emergency brake cables and cleaned up the engine compartment a bit. Anyone know where I can get a new 'hook' for the hood prop rod? My hook is looking a little tired. See the second photo below.

 

Installing this:

 

 

Allows me to remove this:

 

Below you will see the left and right original lines. I mocked up the new lines using some scraps of old coat hangar. In retrospect, I may  have to get two new lines (longer lines) and come up an over the top of the caliper. 

 

 

Oh, I also installed the lower shock bolts. Trying to decide if I'm going to reinstall the rear sway bar or not. I'm not sure I noticed a difference when it was installed.

 

I hope to get the air out of the brake system and that front ball joint buttoned up sometime this week.

 

Thanks for checking in...

Ted

Prop rod hook:  Home depot electrical department, in the area selling electronic/audio cable and plugs and stuff - get a neoprene or rubber coated cable clamp - something with a 3/8"-1/2" ID should be fine.  Position it in the car so half of it looks like what you have, then use a Dremel to neatly cut off what'cha don't want.

 

They may have a different device in the same area that you may prefer - just look around and see what's what.  Radio Shack (if you local one has not yet become a cell-phone-only storefront) may have them, too.

 

Is that a Volvo brake fluid reservoir you're using on the MC??

Thanks for the info! I'll check out the Home Creepo on the way home tonight.

 

The reservoir is one that came with the front disk brake kit. I had reservations about using it directly on top of the MC, when I called CB they said "yank out the barb fittings and stuff the new reservoir right into the rubber fittings. Sounds like a plan! So I did.

 

I don't drive the car in bad weather or off road, I figure it should be fine. I'll keep the lid tight and the dirt screen in there. We'll see how it goes. Do you have any concerns with it? I should have checked here before doing it. Oops.

 

Also, do you see that huge hole to the right of the MC? It's a bout 2" to 3" around. Sort of off shapen/oval. It's in the wood 'fire wall', down by the pedal cluster. I can't figure out what it's from or why it's there. I'm nearly sure it's not necessary. I'm considering patching it with wood and fiberglass. Any thoughts?

Ted

Isn't that where the mouse is supposed to live?

Yup, got your very own Mouse Door there......

 

Seriously, all  can think of is maybe someone put a floor-button Hi/Lo dimmer switch there.  I never had a floor mounted switch so I don't know, but you can certainly put a patch over it.

 

As for the Volvo (or CB) fluid reservoir, they fit the VW master cylinder like a charm, don't leak, stay water and dirt tight and seem to be a perfect fit for our application.  I think Dr. Clock uses them, too, and yes, all you do is push it onto the rubber grommets and you're good to go.

 

Looking good!  What's the road-ready ETA??

Thanks!

 

That's a good question, when will it be back on the road?  Road ready eta is really predicated on which motor I go with. If I go with the 1600, I could have it on the road next weekend. If I go with the 1915 it's going to take a bit longer.  December 05 will be two months off the road, so my desire to drive the car is starting to outweigh my desire to go fast. 

 

The Setrab should be here Friday I'm hoping that things will really pick up the pace once the cooler arrives.  Of course, I may just put that off until later. With the type 4 cooler in the widened doghouse with the balanced fan - I may not need the external cooler until the summer. Maybe I can hook up the 1915 with the external filter and just get 'er going? The two big hold ups are the fact that I need to clean up and paint the shroud and rejet the carbs. I have a less than 1 year old set which are currently set up for 1600. I have a vintage set that need rebuilding. Trying to decide which set to put on the 1915. I'm not sure it matters one way or the other. Some say the older Kadrons work better than the newer ones. 

 

I managed to get the front end buttoned up this evening. New ball joint in and the lower 'turkey leg' has been installed. Once I bleed the brakes I'm all out of excuses. It's then onto the motor. Ohh... I need to install the outer hose clamps on the new axle boots. Almost forgot those.

 

One thing at a time...

Ted

 

Today was a day of tying up a lot of little things.

Today I:
Buttoned up the front end and put both front tires back on.
Wednesday I hooked up an industrial vacuum pump to the brakes and removed every speck of air out of the lines.
Sanded down and patched up the doghouse cooler with the type 4 dog house.
Removed the CB performance Super Screen out of the sump and reinstalled the extended pickup tube.
Noticed I have a screwed up stud on the sump. (may need a new sump...)
Cleaned up all of the rear wiring loom. Ditched all the crimp connectors and soldered everything.
Reconnected the purple wires for the reverse lights. One was frayed. Cut and soldered it.
Checked all the nuts and bolts for proper torque.
Replaced the cylinder tins.
Resprayed the alternator backing plate.
Swapped a case stud so I can could install my CARB linkage.
Installed the CARB linkage.

Tomorrow will be another day of hustle.
I hope to get the thermostat flaps welded in the open position.
Swap out the 1600 doghouse fan for the welded and balanced fan.
Paint and install the fan shroud ( with the alternator )
Install the MOTOR!!!

If I get that far I will consider it a major victory.

The biggest hurdle will be the thermostat fins. I don't own a welder.

Wish me luck,
Ted

Oh! And the Setrab and a bunch of other oil cooling goodies arrived today.

That cooler is TINY!! I can mount that thing anyplace!

Ted

Why are you welding the shroud air vanes in place (open) rather than simply installing the actuator struts and a thermostat?  It will make your engine warm up faster.

 

Not criticizing, just curious...Plus, you wouldn't need a welder.  Jus, sayin'

 

Other than that, WOW!  You're getting a whole lot of stuff done!!

       
       

Good Morning Gordon.
That's actually a great question. I'm welding them open because when the previous owner of this shroud widened it for the type four cooler the actuator arm/rod no longer fits without hitting the wider exit for the doghouse. I could leave them out all together, however Anthony strongly suggested using them and welding them 'open'.

Have any of you intrepid members mounted your cooler in the fender well?

Ted

Yup, under the circumstances, Anthony is absolutely right - Position them open and weld 'em up.

 

Regarding mounting a cooler in the fender well, that's where I put Pearl's and you can read all about it in the series of "Full-Flow" articles I just posted to the "Knowledge" section.

 

Let me know if you have any questions as you go along.

 

My cooler looks like this:

 

 

Gordon

I've got a modified 96 plate EMPI cooler and fan back there. It's a tight fit (hense the modification). The Strab set-up is much more compact.

 

Joel Schlotz put his Setrab in the same spot. He's in Chico, so not so very far from you.

A way to save the sump, Ted, is to re-tap the problem hole and install a 7mm stud. You'll have to drill the drain plate, of course, it will now only go on 1 way and unless you can find a larger copper sealing washer a little bit of rtv silicone will be needed, but you'll only have to do it once because the drain plate has a center plug/bolt.

 

A guy I know used 7mm studs in the bottom of the case to make the case to sump connection stronger, as he uses a Berg sump and they are heavier. He drove the car to Central America and back last spring and has driven to Mexico 3 or 4 times over the years, all on a 78x90.5 (85 or 90,000 miles?) that I don't think has ever been apart.

 

I have also heard of guys putting longer 6mm studs in the bottom of the case and putting nuts on the inside so the studs (with a little loctite) won't be able to move.

Thanks for the info. The sump has some sort of insert put in one of the existing holes. That insert is threaded into an enlarged hole and the the standard stud is threaded into that insert. Some hamfist appears to have stripped the sump where the insert was threaded into. I found the loose / wobbly stud while installing the new sump plate. That would be throwing a monkey fist at the ham fist.

I will look to see if I can possibly tap it for a 7mm, maybe 8mm?

Ted

Gordon and Stan:
How much of a gap do you have between the cooler and the inner fender well? I have the Setrab brackets to mount the cooler, is that all the space I need!? I'm guessing the fan is a pull type unit?

Thanks as always,
Ted

Whoa......TED!  Your page count is closing in on Lane's.  Won't comment on whether that's good or bad.

 

On the cooler, my Derale came with the mounting brackets already mounted and I had the same question on spacing up off the deck;  "Is 1/2" - 3/4" enough?".  

 

Turns out, it is.  My fan can push or pull.  I have it set to pull from the fender wall out through the cooler (recommended in the install instructions) and it works fine.  

 

Also, a 7mm stud is easy to install for the drain plate.  I've done a few over the years for people.  They didn't realize the torque spec is, like, 5 ft lbs. and stripped a stud out when installing the plate.  Locktite on the new stud going in, and then use the thick, orange, silicon plate gaskets from Aircooled.net and it should seal right up.  Aluminum washers (ACE Hardware) will work in place of the copper ones - drop the torque spec 1/2 ft lb.

Ted,

 

I've got mine on an angle (relative to perpendicular), in a bracket made of angle iron. It pitches away from the vertical line of the inner fenderwell, in at the top, out at the bottom. There's probably 1/2" inch of clearance at the top of the cooler, and a couple at the bottom.

 

I'd think you'd want something more than the stand-off height, unless you've got vibration isolators that are 3/4"- 1" high.

There is also a 6 to 7mm stud (6 at one end, 7 at the other) made for drain plate stud repair.

Managed to get everything painted. The thermostat flaps welded and the new welded fan installed. When I mocked up the alternator to the shroud, the fan son freely. Once I offered the shroud up to the motor, the fan now rubs on the shroud. I will tear that down today to see if I can figure out what's up.

I mocked up the carbs (as they have to come off before the motor can go in).



Ted

Looking good, Ted! Going for the (is it SC?) look with the grey shroud?

SC / Super 90 ish... Yeah.

Phew. What a day. Motor is installed and running. I drove it around a little bit. I really need to tune it. Its running kind of rough.

My goal was met. Back in and running in less than two months.

Yay!

Ted

DUDE! YOU are a MACHINE!! The rest should be easy. 

 

On another note, we're going to be in Moonstone Beach in January. Maybe we can meet somewhere between your pad and Paso Robles (or wherever)!

Photos of the car on the ground. Noticed a slight leak on one of the oil filter fittings. I'll fix that this week.

       
       

Sounds like a plan. Let me know when and I will run it past SWSBO. I'm sure she'll be up for it.

Talk to you soon,
Ted

Last picture, under the exhaust pipe in the lower right - What's that part lying on the floor??

 

The last time I had my car out I only had the driver's seat installed and stopped back at the house to get a heavy blanket to toss into the passenger seat spot as a sound deadener.  As I was crossing the garage floor with the blanket (the car was still outside) I spied a 1/4" X 20 nut lying on the floor.  

 

Major panic ensued.......

 

Then, when I got back from the second ride (a little shorter than the first stage) I realized that it was one of the nuts holding the seat attach hardware under the car and I had missed picking it up when I pulled the seat.

 

Whew!

Heh, that's a wad of blue painters tape. I had it on the shroud while I was installing it.

I do have a pile of nuts and other assorted goodies lying around. I was concerned, then I remembered I have two motors now.

I will clean up the garage and start to figure out what to do with the other motor. I need to sync the carbs and dial in the timing a bit. I also found one of the holes in the new rotors is stripped. I will call CB and have them send me a new rotor.

Last night the timing was jumping a bit while I was trying to set the advance. I'm going to go through the valves and carb settings and THEN the setting the timing again.

It's nice to have everything up and running again.

Did you put the new engine in or are you still playing with the slug?

Ha! Not, the slug. The new engine is in. I was having an odd issue with the timing. It seemed like it was bouncing between 25-30 BTDC. It was late and I wasn't sure what was up. I thought my led head lamp and the timing light were playing tricks on me. Maybe the light was goofing up? Some internet mechanics suggest issues with the crank gear, end play, or the distributor gear spring.  I'll start there and hope I can figure it out.

I'll start again this weekend. I'll check the valve settings, the carbs, the distributor spring, etc.

I really hope this isn't something wrong with the end play or the crank.

Ted

WTG Ted; you have turned your little baby into a masterpiece. Wish I had your skills (and quick wit, humor, as well!). Looking forward to meeting up again next year.

Well... I couldn't just sit here thinking about the spring. is it there? Is it not? Why didn't I check before inserting the distributor? Such a simple thing to check. Just one nut.

So, I went to check. Sure enough. The spring was missing. Who'd of thunk it would be so simple? Maybe some time this week I will be able to go through the valve settings, the carb settings and lock in the timing. If not this week, for sure this coming weekend.

Sweet!

Ted

lol lol. Ladies and gentlemen  Terry Knuckles out of nowhere!!  LOL LOL 

 

cool Ted now we can enjoy speed runs down highway 1. Like last year  (started by the Knuckle bros).   now that was a highlight!! 

 

Doug.   How's the AZ?   Hope your well 

 

 

 

Tebs

 

 

Teby! I swear to God we're related somehow...

Hey Doug and Teby!

Thanks for the kind words. I can't wait to get it out and drive it. Last night was the first time I've driven it in nearly two months. You'd think I lived on the east coast or something?!

What's new with you guys?

Knuckles - thanks for the inspiration to check that spring!

ALB / Wolfgang / Gordon - any pointers on setting up / aligning the gear shifter? I feel like I may need to do that after installing the new trans. Third and fourth are easy to find. First and second seem like they are hiding from me.

Ted

Doing Good Ted thank you for asking... My Mistress ( MISS JILL) is all buttoned up and ready for the road.. she halls ass after her 4 week rehab stent .. Just bought a black box from CB I will have that installed and WAL-LAH.. I did tell you that she has a 1903cc Stroker that produces 77hp at 4500rpm and 105 FT LB of torque .. Scott Sebastian DYNO'd it for me .. You have done a hell of a lot of work on your car looks great and I cant wait to see it...  Maybe in Jan at Moonstone?    

 

 

yes Terry,  I think we are related... Is your Right foot heavier than your left? IF yes...   we are related..

 

ps my car will not be... repeat, will not be running like crap next year....

 

lol lol

 

tebs

 

 

 

Ted, Teby,

 

I saw that note earlier about someone going to Moonstone and a possible meet-up in Paso Robles.  If possible I'd like to go as well. Short morning drive and some lunch while checking out Ted's ride etc.  Maybe??

4 week rehab!? Mine was nearly twice that and I'm not quite done yet. 77/105 is impressive! Was that at the crank or at the wheels? You're running dual Webers and a stroked cam, so you will produce excellent power. What heads are you running? What cam?

Mine is just a mild 1915 with little old Kadrons and a svda with an electronic ignition. Engle 110 cam and 40/35.5 heads. I'll be lucky to see anything close to what you're showing. Maybe a touch more HP, but nowhere near that torque number. I'm toying with installing 1.25:1 rockers, but I'm not clear what that will offer vs the amount of work it will take. Ultimately I'd like a 2.0l or a 1968 stroker. Maybe someday.

Let me get it running well and then get that cooler installed before I start talking about tweaking the motor any more.

It's voila, and it's a French word. Honestly; you 'Merican's....

 

Ted- I don't know if, with your engine, how much difference 1.25's would make. Are the heads on this engine ported? If you have the rockers, then it would be interesting to find out, but I suspect the carbs may not let the combo reach it's potential unless they have bigger venturis installed. Stock vents in kadrons are 28mm, and I would think your engine could benefit from 30's. Once you have it running well, figure out how where it peaks in 3rd gear; remember that it will rev higher (500?rpm), but you want to know where it makes the most power. With the W110 it should go to 55-5700rpm; anything less and the carbs are holding it back.

 

What happened to fire breather you were looking at? I thought you'd bought it?

 

 

Good Morning Al,

This is the same motor. I'm just not sure that I'd consider it a fire breather quite yet. Especially when you compare it to the likes of Teby's 1905 or Mr. Knuckles 5 speed beauty. Until I get er all dialed in, it's just a lil ole 1915...

Good point on the carbs. I actually re jetted them and installed new venturis. I went up to 30-40's. You are correct, stock they came with 28-40's.

As far as the RPMs go, when I got it running on Sunday it was running a bit rough as the timing was jumping a bit due to the aforementioned missing distributor drive gear spring. Even though I had yet to really synch the carbs, at about 2500 RPMs the motor really came alive. It was a kick to watch the tachometer zip up to the red line. It felt like it could still pull bit past 5500. It will be interesting to see how it runs once I get it all dialed in.

As far as I know, the heads are just run of the mill 40/35.5s. No port work has been done. It's good to know that the motor may not benefit from the added expense of the rockers. Maybe I can put that out of my mind, or at least put them off for a bit.

Teby and the rest of the Fresno gang - we should totally go in January. I'll need to check with Alexis, but that would be a blast. I hope to have the motor dialed in enough to drive it that far. If not, I can always bring the daily driver.

Thanks for tuning in...
Ted

Santa was generous this year. For Christmas I was fortunate enough to receive many fun upgrades for the Speedster.

 

 

I scored:

• Vintage Speed Speedster shifter, with matching ivory colored handle. Along with that
• Vintage Speed center pull linkage
• (http://vwparts.aircooled.net/V...-p/315-001-02idf.htm)
• Unique Parts Accelerator pedal 'speed ball' (http://unique-parts.com/?wpsc-...ade-kit-2-fits-67-79).

 

I'll find some time to get the parts installed. Should be fun.

 

Ted

 

 

 

awesome Ted.

 

I like the accelerator peddle  thing. I might check into that. I watched the video.  

 

 

So you want to race for pinks?   Lol lol. Can't wait to see your car at 2015 SOC meeting in Slo. Or before that even... 

 

Tebs

Ted; your car looks cool, ship shape as they say.  If the 1st and 3rd gears are not engaging on the Vintage Speed shifter, try moving the aluminum shifter base forward a bit.  If then 2nd and 4th don't engage, you went too far, go back to the rear a little.

 

It has been 24-28 degrees, every morning this week. Damn cold for the Santa Cruz mountains!!  Probably a little warmer your way.

 

Happy New Year!

 

 

Art

Thanks Art! 1st through 4th are working well so far. The one thing I've found it that sometimes I can engage reverse without pulling up on the shift lever. This is problematic because I'm usually tolling and trying to go for second. :yikes: Not fun grinding gears on a brand new trans. I've read up on it and I've found that I need to keep moving the shift base to the left until that goes away. 

 

The car is currently taken apart while I clean up the pedals and install the roller pedal. 

 

Where I am so far - 

 

Pulled back the coco mat and removed the two 17mm nuts. Lots of junk in there:

 

The break pedal piston and the funky little clip that holds it in:

 

The old accelerator pedal arm:

 

Gunk and goop on the pedal assembly:

 

 

Dirty parts and pedals:

 

 

Blown apart for cleaning:

 

The clutch pedal is an odd arm. Not sure what's going on with the sideways pedal and what's with this nutty little tab?! Al... Al... Al... what were you trying to do here?

 

 

All cleaned up and almost ready to go back in. I just need to clean up the pedals and apply the pedal covers.

 

 

Ready to go back in! 

 

Can't wait to try out the new pedals. I hope they work as good as they look.

 

Ted

 

 

Another shot of the original pedals before cleaning and modifications. I'm not sure why the clutch pedal was slightly askew and rotated 90 degrees. Maybe Al (previous owner) had a really big left foot? I wonder if the donor car has some sort of hand controls on it? What else could that extra tab on the clutch arm  be used for?

just an idea: maybe it is the Rest oft an self desingned hydraulic clutch sysem

That was certainly what I thought.

Maybe it was an old school theft deterrent system hooked to the steering wheel? 

Great job re-doing your speedster! 

 

Gary

 

Ahh... yeah maybe. The tab is threaded. Maybe that's the answer!

 

Today I'll go out and see if I can get the clutch cable hook to engage without having to jack the car up and undo it from the trans. 

 

I'm really digging the 356 pedal shape upgrade. It was a modification I kind of whipped together on the fly. I had ordered the pedal covers from Sierra Madre on a whim. I figured one day I'd get around to trying something. Who'd of thunk it'd work so easily.  Never under estimate how a $20.00 or 12 pack will motivate a muffler shop owner into action.  Mike, from Kings Muffler here in town was just about to shut down for the day (at 4PM!) when I asked if he'd be willing to help with a project. I produced the pedal assembly and the pedal blanks I had cut out of some sheet stock. He said "Ahh! The ole bug to Porsche pedal trick..."  I knew I had the right guy! We chatted about his ole 'bug' days. Before I knew it, he had everything all tacked and welded up. He asked if I had a grinder to clean up the welds. I did, so he handed over the parts. I slipped him a 20 and I was off.

 

I always think that really need to learn to weld, then I find a kind soul who's always willing to lend a hand.

 

Now the question is, do I cut off that tab on the clutch arm or just leave it as a reminder of ole' crazy Al?

 

Bob and Gary - thanks for the kind words. This ole girl has been a labor of love. Maybe at the 1 year mark I'll go back and compile a list of everything I've fixed, upgraded, and tweaked over the previous 365 days. As per everyone's suggestions - I will NOT add up the receipts.

 

Ted

Yay! All installed and working great! I also dropped in two Crow racing belts. I'm having a shoulder harness bar built to go behind the seats. It will be level with the tops of the seat backs (about shoulder height.). This will appease SWSBO.

Next up are the SETRAB cooler and the new linkage.

Thanks for tuning in...
Ted

"SWSBO"?

 

Anyway, beautiful job, Ted.  Not only are you having fun, you're meeting new local people with the same sickness and making your car more personal all the time.

 

Happy New Year!

 

Gordon

The Speedstah Guy from Massachusetts

I think Ted just hit the wrong key, Gordon. Alexis is also known as She Who Must BE Obeyed...as is the lovely Beth in my household and probably most of our significant others...

Ted's slowly moving to the darker side of speeester ownership, Al.

SWSBO is She Who SHOULD Be Obeyed. Pretty soon, after more engine mod$ and new Fuch$ it will become She Who, or SW?.

 

Ha!

 

I was going with She Who Shall Be Obeyed.  But your version works too!

 

Today I'm working on some projects on her list of 'to do' items.  Painting the new mantel I built for the fireplace and wrapping up the final newel post for the stair case.

 

The only thing that will happen with the speedster is that it will get sawdust on it.

 

Ted

 

 

Brilliant move, Ted!

 

She thinks you're working on her Honey Do list, while you're really giving the Speedster that 'barn find' patina.

 

 

 

Ted and Terry- that was all I could think of, guys. Any version works; it just means we know our place in the world. 

 

Mitch- speaking of patina (2nd one's my favorite; my car's even white. Hmmm....)-

 

 

 

       
       

In true honor to the car do it at day 356.

Ahh! Good idea!

Love that white one!

Hey Ted, I was at Mike Lempert's today and saw your wheel spoke metal.  He's got no excuses now.

Damn! How can I like this post more than once!?!

 

Thanks for the update, Lane!

Ted

Don't get too eager as there are still other is the queue ahead of you, but the work has now started.

Heh. I'm not too eager. The original deadline he gave me has already come and gone.  He told me 6 weeks ago that I had a few in front of me and that it would be a bit. I was hoping it would have been ready for the end of the year. I'm guessing more like end of January. 

 

Patience young grasshopper. Patience. 

 

Ted

The wait is worth while.  Mike sent me my wheel over Christmas... What a beautiful piece of art. 

Just read this entire thread. Awesome job you've done on your Speedster, Ted! Gives me some inspiration to do some more things to my new to me widebody.

Thanks, Gary

Ted:  Waiting is hard.

 

I started building my car when my kids were in Jr. High and my son was hoping I would get it done and would let him take it to his Junior prom.  It wasn't done.

 

Then he hoped for his Senior prom.  It wasn't done then, either, nor was it done for his High School or college Graduations.

 

It finally got on the road, a few years pass and he finally got to use it for his wedding get-away car....

 

This thing sucks... Literally.

Second time this has happened. The new 1915 motor keeps sucking the valve cover gaskets off the valve covers. The first time I attributed it to the scrappy aftermarket chrome bales. I ditched those and put some stock ones on the heads. Those worked well for a bit, but just the other day I sucked another gasket. I'm currently running chrome Mofoco vented valve covers. I'm thinking of ditching those in place of some vented stock Gene Berg units, or actually installing the Porsche 4 cam look alike units I purchased.

The motor is vented out each valve cover with 1/2" ID hose. The two vents meet at a T and are then routed back to a 912 style oil filler housing. The housing has two inlets. One receives the vent from the valve covers. The other simply vents to another 1/2" line which is routed down to a catch can, similar to the stock unit.


I have not vented anything back into the carbs. The only 'breather' I have is the 912 style one from CSP. What can I do to keep from sucking these valve cover gaskets? I guess the simple answer is to keep my foot out of the pedal.

Thanks,
Ted

hmmmmmmmm............Since the crankcase and valve covers are all at a positive atmosphere, you would expect, if anything, the pressure would push the gasket out past the lip of the valve cover.  Is THAT what's happening, or are the gaskets finding their way into the rocker gallery??

 

If they are going into the gallery, I would suspect the flatness of the aftermarket valve covers where they mate to the head.  If there is a slight angle to the mating lip, especially closer at the outside of the lip than at the inside, they'll pop the gaskets into the rocker gallery in short order.

 

The fix? Try the fake 4-cam covers you have and see if that cures it.  If not, I might try the Berg stock, vented covers.  If THAT doesn't work, I would glue the suckers in with Permatex blue gasket goop.

 

gn

my solution is,  using only the original cover oft the VW Beetle, that have always been perfekt

I'm very late to the party here -- and it is quite a party. TRP (Ted) you have got the madness big-time.  I am so happy for you!!!  There would be a lot to comment on here, and maybe in due time.  But to jump to the end and the valve cover gaskets, you should, as has been mentioned, use original VW covers and bales.  really.  also, you could try my method for sealing, which I developed and used since the '60s.  Are you using cork?  As they say in NJ: fuggedaboudit.  They make a fiber-flex (?) neoprene sort-of gasket (my local auto parts shop, NAPA has these).  Clean the crap out of the cover, and do what you can to make sure it is as flat and true as possible.  Apply some red RTV gasket maker to the cover, and place the gasket onto this.  Set it aside for a night or day to set up.  When you apply the valve cover and gasket ass'y to the engine, make sure that the head surface is clean.  I apply a bit of silicone grease to the rubber gasket that is in contact w/ the head.  Put it up there and pull the bale over.  give the VC a little tap-tap from one side and then the other to be sure it is seated well.  This should do it.  Also, this application works for many many miles.  You can take the Vc off and replace it many times.  After a while it may harden up abit w/ the engine temp, etc., and will have to be replaced.  Cleaning off the old RTV may take a bit of work, but not too bad.  My two old 356s and the newer Speedster have all had it done this way, and it works.  And I agree w/ Gordon that the engine is not "sucking" in your gaskets. they are just not securely set, and if cork, they compress and harden, and get lose and fall down.

 

Let me know how this goes.

And when you go to NAPA for those valve cover gaskets, pick up an aerosol can of Permatex RTV dissolver so when you want to get everything removed from the valve cover it'll be a much easier job.

 

I have used both the cork-style gaskets and the composite ones (usually black, but I've seen green ones, too) over the years with bolt-on valve covers (the worst, I know, but what'cha-gonna-do when you're a cheapskate?) and have about the same luck with either.  I will lean toward the cork ones if I have them, but usually just grab whatever is in the gasket bin.  Usually I'll buy a 10-pack of VC gaskets at VW show flea markets whenever I'm running low, but NAPA is handy, too.

 

Like Kelly, I just use  a liberal film of automotive grease on the gasket.  Makes getting the cover off later much easier.  If you feel they're gonna distort and leak, Permatex them to the cover.  But I would suspect the flatness of your current cover mating surface.

 

I remember running out of VC gaskets at an autocross once, so we just ran a BIG bead of Permatex around the valve cover.  It sealed perfectly and lasted way past the end of the season, but I almost had to use Dynamite to get the damn valve cover off.

Gordon posted "But I would suspect the flatness of your current cover mating surface."

 

This I can totally agree with. I've had aftermarket chrome and cast aluminum valve covers on V-8's not seal well, allowing oil seepage or outright leaks and the most likely cause has been the the valve covers have been slightly warped and not sitting true to the mating surface. This has been more prevalent with Chrome steel covers in my experience, though I have had a pair of aluminum that were really tweaked.  Also if using a chromed valve cover it often helps to gently sand off the chrome plating on the mating surface, for some reason when plated the uniformity of the plating is not uniform on the mating surface, and doing the same to an aluminum cover has proven to be beneficial as often the casting on the mating surface is not all that smooth . 

As for valve cover gaskets the best I've used is SCE hi-temp silicone/cork laminated steel reinforced, nominally thicker than OEM they tend to not creep or move and seal very well and are reusable...expensive at around $35+ each but well worth it, not sure if SCE makes them for VW's though.

The Fel-pro 'Fel-prene' hi-temp reinforced gaskets are another good choice, again not sure if they are made for VW's...Retail is about $30 each, expensive but again worth it and they sealed a slightly warped chrome plated Moroso valve cover on my '33 Vicky's 350sbc after trying several other gaskets that eventually began leaking...never had an oil seepage or leak after installing them.

I think I solved the valve cover gasket issue this weekend.  I tried the FelPro gaskets and they leaked. This time it was the other side. I *almost* drilled a hole in the 4 cam replica covers but decided to just jump to inevitable.  I tapped and vented some original stock valve covers. took about 20 minutes to clean 'em up and get the vents installed. I installed them with some standard cork gaskets. No issues as of yet.

 

While running down the valve cover issues I found that the oil pump may be seeping somewhere. Boo. I bet it's the silly 'ribbed' aluminum cover that's on there. It's a good melling pump, can I use the original oil pump face plate? Or are there better options? I also found a weeping stud in the sump. I kind of knew the hole was dodgy. It appears to be stripped. I need to replace a stud with a 'step stud' in the sump. I picked up the stud this weekend.  Maybe I'll jump in head long and fix all these issues while I'm installing the cooler / bypass valve.

 

I'm just not a fan of working with oil lines. They tend to be prone to leaks and major messes.

 

Ted

But look on the bright side - If you have an oil leak, the area around it will probably never rust.

 

Good news on the valve covers, too!

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=5_126_2741

HEY!!!  If Terry Nuckels tells you to buy Gene Burg Products   YOU DAMN WELL BETTER!!  

 

Myself  Im picking up a dozen GB 244w's     

 

Thanks Terry     Remind me in June to show you where I installed my GB 244w's 

 

Tebs!!