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Ted:

  Is your rev limiter adjustable ?

In reading Terry Nuckles book "Peddle To The Mental," "Story of a Crazed Street Racer", (Circa 1966)...    it might be wise to set it between  62-6400 your engine should be able to handle that.

Brecause after the break in of 500 miles with 30wt Brad Penn Oil, your going to romp on it and find yourself at 5800 quickly,  and you dont want to impede yourself with the rev limiter kicking in as you TRY and catch me on the 1   

Tebs    as see on tv 1

 ps.....   way to go on your car man!!  Cant wait to see you both this year   should be fun as always ..

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I don't know, Mr Tebs, about setting a rev limiter to what the redline is guessed to be.

If you think about it, all engines have rev limiters - sometimes it's the rods, sometimes the main bearings, sometimes the heads, sometimes the pistons. If you run it at the redline long enough, sooner or later something will do a great job of limiting all those fun-loving revs.

An extra add-on, after-the-build, just-in-case kind of rev limiter is supposed to be a less expensive way of doing the same thing. It's an especially good idea if the driver is young, fun-loving, and half-drunk on the sweet ambrosia that is early spring in California.

Or maybe you want Ted's little motor to go boom before he catches you on the 1?

 

Mr Mitch... Mr Mitch....   May I call you by your first name Mr Mitch?   

That's the last thing I'd want to happen to Teds motor...  I need it to stay in tact so Roberts wife Nancy can get it back home for me!!      LOL LOL  

 

Tebs.......

Just Kidding Ted!!  we are racing only for the GUINNESS!!

*sigh*

I remember when I used to have a car I could get in and drive.

The weather cleared up yesterday so i finally had a chance to pull the car out of the garage and take it for a spin. The second I pushed in the clutch I new I had a problem. The clutch pedal has a good amount of resistance (I'm assuming that's the Kennedy pressure plate), Depressing the clutch pedal is met with a whistle or howl. If I press the pedal in all the way I get what sounds like metal on metal (assuming the TO bearing is hitting the trans main shaft?)  The noise goes away once I let out the clutch the noise goes away. I assume it's a throw-out bearing issue but I'm perplexed because it was fine with the 1915.  Someone else suggested it could be an issue with the bearing in the gland nut.

Seems a shame to have to pull the exhaust and one of the carbs to pull the motor out.  It is what it is. 

Hey longfella - you want to sell me back the 1600 with the Kadrons? Simpler times. 

Ted

 

I was just thinking that when I came back here to see your reply. I'll need to look at the back of the old 1915 and see what the pressure plate looked like. I don't know if I have a photo of the new motor & it's pressure plate.  I bet that's it. 

Old pressure plate:

Image result for Pressure Plate VW Early

I bet the newer one looks like this:

Image result for VW Kennedy Stage one pressure plate

No centering collar...

Silly Ted...

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art posted:

Ted;

My apologies for barging in on your 2054cc  thread.

Your 1915cc, what were the pluses versus  your 1600cc and minuses?

(I frankly missed the step from 1915 to 2054)

Thanks,

Art

For a bench mark I have a 1641cc, DP, twin Solex/Kadron 40's. 

 

Hey Art!

The 1600 i had was old and tired. Dual Kadrons, SVDA and A1 sidewinder. Maaayby 60hp.  The 1915 ran the same carbs, distributor, and exhaust . I'd guess... Mayby 85/90hp? It ran good. Ballanced crank, rods, and pistons. It would rev to 5,500/6k pretty quickly. Fun motor. Ran warm in stop and go traffic so I put the setrab on it. Had an annoying oil drip. 

Both motors were dead on reliable. You can tune Kadrons in your sleep.

Why did I change motors 3 times in two years? Torque is one hell of a drug. 

Ted:   My Friend ........   The one great thing about this thread is that you have consistently chronicled your journey with the new enhancements being done to your car. Might I add,  at you own doing, which I find admirable...   

Can I offer this advice?     When doing these car projects I have learned that its better to replace it with "new" than keep the existing..  IE: NEW bolts, washers, throw out bearing etc.  This often resolves future issues that may occur. When I was in the midst of my super secret engine build and replacement I didn't use any existing hardware..  I just felt better knowing that everything is new and solid. 

so!!    Again  Great job keeping this blog alive with all your endeavors, I've enjoyed a lot of the comments and advice and I'm totally looking forward to see her on the road..  I may come visit ahead of the June run as I want to put more break in miles on miss Jill..

Thursday Grab a Guinness on me!! 

Tebs

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