Ted,
You can weld. Buy a flux-core MIG, and some metal to practice on.
It's only a few hundred bucks, and it's a tool (tools don't count as money spent).
Tools are money made (or saved) in the future.
I agree on the tools thing and I need to learn to weld if I plan to stay in this hobby. That said, I really want these tabs welded properly. Not something I want to have fail.
Speaking if welding those tabs on. Right now the brace is bolted to the trans. The brace doesn't sit level. Left to right there is about 1/4" difference in the gap between the mid mount and the frame horns. Front to back the mid mount angles down a bit.
In the photo above you can just make out the angle of the mid mount 'forward' bracket 'tabs'. They are just in front of the existing rhino mount.
Should I adjust the transmission so that those are paralell with the ground before I have those tabs welded on?
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Don’t try to adjust the mount. The slight angle -can be your cradle mount is tweaked, cradle mount rubber separated or a frame horn is bent slightly.
Ted, I hope those jack stands are more secure than they look on the bottom of the shocks! They are making me very nervous. Just saying.
Thanks, Anthony!
James - Re: the jack stands - Good catch. I should move them to a more secure location when I'm under the car. I'd like to keep my insides from seeing the outside. 
I had the brackets welded to my frame horns on Saturday. Afterward, when I was putting Rustbullet on them, it looked like one was a little closer to the flange on the frame horn than the other.
Driving to get this done, with the top down, was the first time I drove the car when the temperature was in the low 30s.
@Michael - good to know! Who did you find to do the work? I was going to head to a muffler shop and see if one of they could throw a bead on those brackets. Once they are secured and all painted then the fun stuff starts!
I'm going to pull the motor this winter and install stainless fuel lines, relocate the cooler, and install that mocal sammich adapter. I may also take the time to raise the rear end 1.25" on one side and 1/2" on the other. For some reason my car is lower on the driver side than the passenger.
The '29 doesn't need a whole lot. Thankfully.
@TRP, I found an auto repair place that also does welding because they would be able to hoist the car up. Originally I was looking for a someone who could do it on Saturday because I didn't want to take time off work. But, with rain in the forecast for Saturday, I went on Friday. That increased the cost.
A muffler shop could probably do it. Originally, I was hoping someone could do it from a creeper in my garage but then I decided it would be better to hoist it up.
The prospect of having the engine and transmission out has me wondering about installing an Espar heater above the transmission. They are only about 14" x 6" x 6". There was some conversation about this on the site several years ago but I don't know if anyone actually did it.
@TRP, have them just tack the brackets in place. Then remove the rubber bits and protect the cross tube from damage. My welder put wet rags over the ends of the tube. After that, finish welding the brackets.
It's nice to see that you are going ahead with the installation.
does this thread set some record for the longest ever?i love it
You'd think it was a record, but there was a longer one about Weber carbs not working properly after a rebuild.
Micheal - why are you pulling your motor and trans?
Michael McKelvey posted:I had the brackets welded to my frame horns on Saturday. Afterward, when I was putting Rustbullet on them, it looked like one was a little closer to the flange on the frame horn than the other.
Driving to get this done, with the top down, was the first time I drove the car when the temperature was in the low 30s.
Did you install a mid mount like the 1 I showed the pic of (GB 643)? If it's the same 1 could you be so kind as to weigh it for me? Ted's is the 2nd generation 5 speed version with the front mount integrated. Al
Pretty sure that Jack Crosby has a modern Espar gas heater.
Jack does have one. His is mounted up in the nose. I am wondering about mounting it in the back and connecting it to the existing heat connections through the CMC frame.
tomrsr posted:does this thread set some record for the longest ever?i love it
I think that with all the thread drift that goes on in every Forum topic, Theron could simplify this website by just eliminating all the different forum 'Topics' and just have one thread with the header 'Go'.
Eventually the discussion will come around (drift) to whatever tech question you have, or whatever memory has been stirred, or event you went to, or how to properly run a start-up business, or whatever is wrong with the car you're selling. 
TRP posted:You'd think it was a record, but there was a longer one about Weber carbs not working properly after a rebuild.
Oooohhh, nice shot Ted!
Mike: What you are thinking of doing is exactly how VW added the BA6 heater to the VW Bus. The air comes out of the fan shroud, goes through the heater boxes and then "heated" air goes into a blower (same as what the Beck guys use as a supplemental defroster blower) and then right through the heater. The output, on the other side of the heater, goes into the heat ducting to the cabin and/or defroster outlets. That way, whether you use the heater boxes for a little heat, or the gas heater for a lotta heat, all of the down-stream duct system - the outlets by your feet, the outlets for the defrosters, the heat controls, etc - all work the same as before. If you're not getting enough heat from the engine for your needs, flip on the gas heater switch and, Presto! GOBS of heat for the cabin or the windshield. This automatically and by default becomes a flow-through system, too.
Some people choose to use the gas heater as a re-circulation system, whereby the air is pulled from the cabin, heated and returned to the cabin. VW did this with the sedan. Everyone with one has to crack a window to keep the windows from fogging up. Whenever I put my Rogue on re-circulate, in very short order all of the windows fog up so I chose, on my Speedster, to do a "flow-through" system, pulling fresh air from outside, heating it in the heater and dumping it into the cabin. There are enough air leaks in a Speedster that it truly is a "flow-through" and the windows never even think of fogging up.
The BN2 or "2" series of Espar or Webasto (2000 K/cals or 8,000 BTU's) like the Airtronic B2 heater, is a perfect size for a Speedster and can literally drive you out. These are modern, computer-controlled heaters with a variable heat output - turn the knob up and get more heat. Starting to drive you out? Just turn the knob down a bit and the heat level decreases.
Here's where I insert my cautioning statement: Since these modern heater versions are VERY popular with the tractor-trailer sleeper cab set all over the World (where there is not as much money as in the USA), there are a TON of Chinese knock-offs out there, all the way down to $350 bucks for a NEW one. The same level of quality appears in these Chinese knock-offs as seen in any Chinese Speedster parts - Bad to really F'ing bad, so beware and only buy a genuine Eberspaecher, Webasto or Espar heater. Yes, it'll be more money, but you'll get a heater you can trust.
Hope this helps. Gordon