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My home shop got so bad at times I had to stop working, clean up the shop to find the 10 & 13mm sockets.

....... Need the extra weight to keep the wheels from spinning when trying to pull those nuts off. .......... If this is the case you can use a crow bar with the hook end around a wheel stud and the flat spade and on the garage floor. The hook secure the drum / rotor from turning.

Last edited by Alan Merklin
Stan Galat posted:
TRP posted:

 I bet Al, Stan, Anthony, and Gordon all gasped when they saw how messy the floor is.

You're kidding, right? I've got stuff everywhere when I pull the engine. Your floor looks like you could eat off it.

I did! I sat down and ate a sandwich before attempting to stab that trans in. Im still in shock that it went in so smoothly. Im convinced i did it wrong. 

Alexis is having guests over tonight or I would keep at it.

More to tomorrow.

What Stan and Gordon said- you still look fairly organized! And I think I understand why you're trying it that way (you don't want to undo the kafer bar supports- am I right?), but it might be hard to keep the spade ends in place as you put in the be C clips, and how are you going to know when you've got the right amount of tension on the plastic petals (and the right # of gaskets under the side covers)? As Chris said, I've always done it with the axles and tubes on first. I'll be waiting patiently to hear how it goes...

For too many times I forgot to leave the wheels on and then later needed to remove the hub nuts.  Finally, I bought a piece of steel stock at Home Depot, 1/4” thick, 2” wide and 4 feet long.  Something under $20 bucks.  Drilled a hole in one end to fit a wheel stud, then figured out where to put another hole to fit the next adjacent wheel stud.  Assemble to the hub/drum with a couple of nuts so that the long end acts as a lever to oppose the loosening of the nut and position that end on the shop floor.  36mm socket on the nut, 5 foot piece of pipe on the socket bat handle and just ease it right off.  Flip it around to re-tighten the nut.  WAY better than trying to rely on the e-brake to hold the hub.

If you want to be really cool, drill another hole on the opposite end of the steel bar to fit  a clutch bolt on the flywheel, then another hole for the next adjacent clutch plate bolt.  Instant flywheel/crankshaft tool for removing/installing the flywheel gland nut.  Easily good for 400 - 500+ ft. Lbs. and safe for the mechanic.

Hang it up somewhere in the shop by the hole at one end.  Paint it your favorite team colors or Black, Red and Gold for the German/Porsche flag.

 

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
sherco_chris posted:

What made you decide to put the tranny without the axles?  I've always put them together on the floor, then into place as one piece, ( I've only done a few, one several times!). You'll have to let us know if that is easier.  

It's easier to manuver in and out for cutting and fitting the 5 speed. Now that it's in, I will pull it out and install the axels and whatnot.

Now, had I known I only needed to take it in and out just the one time, I may have installed them frist!

I dread those c clips...

Last edited by TRP

Years gone by, I could put a tool down and go back later (sometimes weeks or months later) and just remember where it was and pick it out.  No more.  Now it seems like I forget where the heck things are within minutes.  Gets pretty frustrating, sometimes, so I find myself doing the same thing - use something and put it back so I'll know where it is.  

I also have a small, handled tool tray that I put near where I'm working and just put tools I need and am using in there.  At least I then only have a couple of places to look!  After everything is done I can move the tray to the bench, clean everything off and replace it all back in the chests.  

Life is good.   

You just lengthen the back of the car...

tranny_comparison

The 3" comment was sort of hyperbole. The 5 speed isn't longer but it's bigger up front. The additional bulk is taken up from the midmount forward and is concentrated up in the nosecone.  Which is why you have to make room up by torsion tube.

The above example is an IRS box, but the swing axle is fundamentally identical from the side plates forward. The 5 speed is on the right with the silver parts being part of the Berg kit.

The shape of the 5 speed nosecone necessitates a new front mount, mid-mount, and bracket which you buy from Berg. You also need a new shifter. 

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Last edited by TRP

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