How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

Ted, is this you first oil change with the new engine? If so, it is not unusual to find metal floating around in a new/rebuilt engine. When you change the oil again, keep a close eye on it and see if that continues, if so there is some interference inside the engine. To make sure it is metal, I would get a magnet and stir up the old oil and see if anything sticks, that way you will know if it really metal or not. Good luck.

 

Gary

coud you tell something about the engine? how long did it run at all after the revision? and a funny question: did anyone paint the engine case in silver before the engine was mounted?

Good point Jan! Now I know why I've painted the few cases I've rebuilt black...

 

Gary- If the cam and lifters are self-destructing most of what you'll see will be aluminum/magnesium from the cam gear and lifter bores, so I wouldn't be surprised if most of the material isn't attracted to the magnet.

 

Bummer, Ted! On the other hand, now you have an excuse for building that stroker..

ALB, I agree that some won't be picked up by metal, but it is any cheap easy way to verify if some metal is in the engine. Good point.

 

Gary

I believe if was the cam or lifters going bad you would have immediately noticed in the way the car performed. When either goes bad it is almost always self-evident in performance...at least that is what I've found in V-8's and I do not see a flat-4 being any different.

There are some shops around that build racing/hi-performance engines that can perform an oil analysis it may behoove you to have the oil checked out. I've had it done before years ago on a BB 427 I had bought used and after firing it up found what looked like metal particles in the fresh oil and it cost about $50-60 to have the analysis done...unfortunately for me the 427 needed a complete rebuild and bore as the particles were metal from the cylinder wall on the #7 piston.

Kind of a pisser, but there isn't much I can do about it now. Just need to drop the Motor, swap in the ole (tired) 1600 and tear down the 1915. This motor has been a leaking mess since  day one. I really despise a leaky messy motor.

Grumble. Grumble. Grumble.

Ted

It is pretty common for engine builders to use a graphite assembly lube on new parts, which comes out of the first few oil changes exactly as you described.  We see it in new engines and transaxles quote often.  I know that does;t help your leaks and such, but it may not be as bad as you think...

Thanks, Carey et al. I'm torn on this one. It's a good running motor. Strong and smooth. No bad habits. The builder said it was broken in and ready to go. My concern is that after the first oil change there was a good layer of the stuff in the base of the sump plate. I put my finger in the stuff and it looked like silver / grey graphite paste. Do you fix the oil leak and run it? Or bite the bullet and just pull the motor apart?

What about the setrab? Is it junk if it's been filled full of lifter/bearing material?

That is a BUMMER, Ted! As much as a pain in the a$$ a tear down would be, I know you wouldn't have any peace of mind unless you verified with a tear down. For you, that may be only a weekend project! When I retire next year, I can drive up whenever you need help wrenching on that bad boy, cuz I know you got the madness real bad and will still be tinkering! 

As already mentioned, sounds a lot like builder lube.  Builder lube will slowly go away over time.  The first oil change should show a lot of fine filings - like a shimmer on the oil or dust suspended in it if viewed through a clear glass.  put the container in the sun and it will shimmer like a rainbow.  This will markedly decrease with the first three or four oil changes.

 

If the Setrab is downstream from (or after) the external oil filter in the circuit, then it should be fine as the filter will catch anything large enough to get trapped in the cooler.   Some people make a living out of cutting oil filters in half and analyzing the residue left behind, but that's mostly for racers to determine what's wearing and whether it's time for a tear-down/rebuild.

 

Now....leaks - That's a whole 'nuther thing.

Sounds like you should drive it for a while before going through the bother of pulling the engine, Ted.

i like what Jan is saying here! I learn something new every time I visit this site. 

Thanks for the replies guys. If I can fix this damn oil leak I'll run it a bit and see if it clears up. The stuff sounds exactly like what Gordon and the rest of you are describing. If it's builders lube, then that's great. My luck usually doesn't go that way.

 

The oil level was a little 'proud' of the top mark on the dip stick. I was hoping the extra oil (everywhere) was due to the extra oil pressure pushing past the sand seal. We'll see.

 

I will check the three questions you mention above. If I just open the crank case while it's running I'm pretty sure nothing comes out of the breather/inlet... unless I try to add oil while it's running, then it creates a horrible mess.  Don't ask me how I know.

 

Jan - I see what you did there.

 

Ted

. . . and I'll assume you have a magnet in there and that you looked at that too.  What did you see: little filings like hair??  I like the builder's lube theory to explain the appearance of the oil.  Sounds right.  Run it 300m mi, change the oil and filter, and run it some more, see what you see.  Jan's list of three things is right on and easy to do.  I rubbed a cam lobe off an old Volvo once and it took a really long time to fully develop. By the time I rebuilt it the lobe was most gone (I think it was an intake valve) and the car still ran pretty good if you did not ask it to do too much, but when you stepped on it and the cylinder pressure went up, it faltered and had a lot of popping up through the carbs. And of course the Volvo had one lobe per valve, and the VW has two valves per.  Whatever that might mean -?-

Besides the damn thing leaking oil like the Valdez (crank seal, previously valve covers and sump stud) - the motor runs great. The oil looks like just fine particles. NO hairs. No chunks or anything, just a fine silt of what I assume is non magnetic material.  I will run a magnet through the oil tonight. and possibly a cheese cloth. 

 

I'll check the valve settings. I recently set them to .004 all the way around. A lot of people suggest loose / 0, but I couldn't get my head wrapped around NO valve clearance. The push rods/ valve springs / etc should allow for loose 0.

 

I'll test the oil filler cap trick. Should I remove the breather tubes before I do this test? I feel like the way the breather is set up, it's going to create some sort of splashing. 

 

Anyway  - thanks for your replies. I appreciate each and every one of them. I'm hoping I'm just paranoid. Something tells me I'm not but I've been wrong many times before. 

 

Sorry, Ted, but I'm  pretty sure the Setrab is toast.

I'll be happy to take it off your hands and dispose of it, free of charge.

No, don't worry about it, Ted! What're friends for, right?

Thanks, Buddy.  At least pay for shipping? Let's see... with shipping, hazardous materials, etc.  - it comes to just under $300.00

 

Sound good?

 

 

OK, I'll agree (politely and with full respect) that there may be a little paranoia (engine hypochondria -- I like that) going on here.

 

Loose zero, is the way to go IF you have the chrome-moly pushrods.  it sounds like you do, but you ought to check to be sure; get a sworn affidavit from the builder or put a magnet on the pushrod and see if it sticks.  If so, then you will be wanting to use 0.004" intake 0.006" exhaust)  If not magnetic, then likely chrome-moly, which is an alloy that expands and contracts with heat in tandem with the case and barrels, hence Loose zero" stays loose zero while things warm up.  If you set chrome-molys w/ a little gap, there will be no particular problem w/ that, except there will be a little valve clatter and you might notice that.  And always set valve clearance w/ engine stone cold.

 

Leaky valve cover gaskets: use the neoprene/fiber kind, and glue them down to the valve covers using HT silicone (red stuff). Let dry/set overnight, then apply some grease (I use silicone) to the exposed surface prior to application to the engine.  Original steel VW valve covers w/ the bale to secure them are the best -- other designs look cool, but in my experience do not work as well.

 

The "hair" I am referring to would be what you would see when you remove the sump drain plug and look at the magnet that should be in there.  Be sure to have that look when the oil gets changed.  If no magnet there, get a drain plug that has one, they are cheap.

 

Crank case pressure: with engine running, just open where you pour the oil in and see if gasses come out of this opening.  Leave everything hooked up otherwise.  Rev the engine and see how it goes.  There may be some positive pressure sensed, but it should not be strong and full of oil mist.  Ideally, it would be slightly negative pressure.  And putting oil down this pipe w/ engine running would not be a good idea.

 

Best news: you say engine is running strong, so that is good.  it will take a bit to get broken in. Running at various speeds, and not over-reving would be the order of the day.

 

And of course, do not overfill with oil.

 

 

 

 

It never dawned on me that those little Setrab oil cooling radiators were that expensive...My VS has two, each with a fan, tucked up under the rear of the wheel wells...and other than once checking the electrical connections I've never given them a second thought.

 

In fact, I've never heard the fans working, but the oil has never read above 180 degrees. Oil temp in the sump is checked with an instant reading  digital kitchen meat thermometer...Seven dollars at Walmart.

Ted:

 

Remember that when the engine is running there is quite a lot of air turbulance in the crankcase from all of the moving parts in there.  When you remove the oil filler cap you should see/feel a rapid series of pulsations (4 each second or so at idle) and, overall, it should have a very slight positive pressure - it's not gonna blow your hand off if you put your palm over the opening, but you should feel a wee bit of pressure and pulsing on your palm.  When you remove your palm it should not give a big blast like doing the same to the end of a tailpipe.

 

On the oil, every engine I have ever rebuilt (and everyone else, too, for that matter) will quickly wear in the crankshaft bearings and polish the cylinder walls with the rings.  That's all part of the "break-in process And happens over the first 1,000 or so miles.  This initial wear deposits metal dust in the oil.  THAT is what you're seeing in the first three oil changes during break-in.  I always change the oil at 100, 300 and 1,000 miles because that's what I was told to do when I was a kid.  Each of those changes will show decreasing amounts of dust shimmer until somewhere around 3,000 miles or so (the last break-in change and then repeat every 3,000) it should have finally finished the break-in process and you're good to go.

 

This sound like what you're seeing??

 

and you may have stated this earlier and I missed it, but how many miles are on this engine??

Every V-8 I've built, or had built, 'break-in' oil was recommended for the first 100mi. or so, never keeping the engine at a constant rpm, then change the oil to whatever you plan on using... in 300mi. change it again. Somewhere around the 1,000mi mark or in 6mos if the car is not run often change once again. Then just do routine oil changes, you really need to pay attention to the oil especially if the vehicle sits for long periods of time between use. I change oil in all our 'toy' cars about every 6 months. Been doing this for years and it seems to work.

 

If a car is not run very often you can build up condensation in the block very quickly depending upon your climate.

Hey Gang, the motor has less than 1000 miles. I called the builder and asked a few questions. Turns out it was a little more than 'just broken in'. He built it, the buyer went a different way, so he broke it in , then put it in a bug and drove from Napa to Sacramento and back. Then he pulled it and sold me the long block. I had a few choice words after he changed bluish story. Regardless, it's most likely just breaking in. At Least that is what I'm hoping.

I pulled the crank pulley today. Found that sand seal had spun in the case. The oil leak was from between Tue case and the seal. I replaced it with one which was .01 larger. I put a little assembly lube on the crank pulley neck.

I'll check the valves tomorrow morning. I should go pull the valves covers and ready them for new gaskets so the goo can dry overnight.

Valves are all good. Power is good. Oil splash is nil.

I changed out the spun seal and took her for a drive this morning. Just a small shake down cruze. Got the oil good and warm and ran it through the paces. Brought her home and parked in the garage over a sheet of butcher paper.  Not a single drop of oil.

I think I finally skinned this one. Phew!!!

What's next? Front end alignment and then I'll switch over to the Tecno's.

Ted;

 

Is this on a new oil change?

 

Art

Yup. All new oil. New oil filter, etc.

It's been a while since I've done any improvements to the speedster. Today I decided I needed to address the gap between the rear subframe and the body. No sense in worrying about sealing the engine compartment if that rear gap is still wide open. I was always worried that  hot air off the exhaust could boil up into the engine compartment from that 3" gap between the rear body and the boxed subframe.

I made a few cardboard templates and then went to town with some aluminum and pop rivets. 76 rivets and $30.00 of aluminum later. Now I can get an extra H seal and close 'er up back there.

Not bad for a few hours work 'eh? Maybe I'll paint it black.

Lookin' really good, Ted! For the next 2-3 valve adjustments, record how much each valve moves; if 2 valves (opposite sides, sharing a cam lobe) are requiring more adjustment than the others, then you know something's up. Until then, have fun! Al

Ted, that looks really good! From the crispness of the 'L' bends I take it you have a sheet metal break? or at least access to one.

 

I've thought of doing the same thing, obtaining the aluminum sheet, etc is easy but no one I know has a portable break to make the bends that I could borrow for awhile. I've tried doing it with wood blocks ,etc. yet it just doesn't come out looking as good as using a break.

Just a thought here, maybe one of your local aluminum gutter installers wouldn't mind you using their brake either on the job site or after hours.

I wish I had a break! That is all cut and riveted with a 1/16th thcick 90 degree L bracket at each bend. I'm contemplating sweating in some alumabond on the joints. Not sure it's necessary. I popped a 1/8 rivet every two inches. Should be good. I'm going to back parts of it with light weight dynamat to help keep the hot side hot and the cool side cool. 

Ted

hot side hot and cool side cool is the best, you vcan do for your air cooled engine. May be more important than an aditional cooler, so thumbs up for your work!

I'm told Dynamat is no good for exterior use.  I've been steered to Lizard Skin if it's out in the elements, what ever that is.  Have yet to try it.  Also, don't let it get too hot; is exhaust close to the metal here??

what is this... Lizard Skin?

 

The exhaust isn't too close. There is already a fiberglass sheet that seals up the lower portion (around the motor / next to the engine tins. The aluminum is just the 'second layer' of protection around the back end there. The upper shelf is maybe.. 8-10" from the exhaust? Possibly more? Good call tho'.  I'd hate to clean THAT mess up.

 

Ted

Ted, DO NOT use Dynamat in this situation it is a sound deadener not a heat barrier...It will melt! then you'll have a real mess. As Frazoo said use Lizard Skin heat barrier or similar. You want something that will reflect heat and prevent heat intrusion...Dynamat will not cut it!

 

TED :    I heard that Terry Nuckles,  has a friend that has a cousin that has a best friend  who has a NASA connection  See if they have any shuttle tiles left over...   

 

Talking heat protection    THERE YA GO!!   by the way  cant wait to see the beast!!

 

Tebs

http://www.lizardskin.com/

Ted:

 

I had the same fear of hot air incursion so I made almost exactly the same thing out of a single piece of metal, but I also made up an el-cheapo press brake with a couple of pieces of hinged hardwood to make the bends.  

 

Mine covers the rear area almost the same - it sits on top of the rear of the horse-shoe shaped rear frame member and rests on top of the rear engine tin with enough give to allow for engine rocking and is sealed along the engine tin with weatherstrip tape.  

 

It kips up at each end (left/right) to close up a hole on each side.  It is made of HVAC galvanized sheet metal and held to the frame with 10-32 screws every foot or so.  I sealed it along the inside of the body with a thick piece of closed-cell foam tape (used for storm door weatherstrip) with a simple knife-cut halfway through and it's then pressed onto the rear of the metal piece to seal it.  The end result is a close approximation of what Porsche had on the 356's (as is yours, now).

 

I wouldn't get too crazy about double insulating or double layering over the exhaust pipes/muffler and all that - that simple piece of sheetmetal, along with good sealing around all of the engine tins, should really do the trick for you.

 

gn 

Hey Gordon,

 

Thanks for the info.  I will follow suit. No reason to go overboard. The car has had fiberglass under the horseshoe and around the engine tin. This second 'skin' of aluminum should be just enough to deflect most of the heat downward. (That's the plan/hope)

 

Thanks again for the info. I appreciate it. It's good to know that great minds think alike.

Ted

 

Ted - If you have any left over!

 

Ha! I restored (rebuilt from the ground up) a 1955 tear drop trailer shortly before diving into this madness. It was a labor of love. Most of my skills with the polish and wax come from polishing that 4x8 trailer!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never.again.

Ted

 

 

 

Sweet project Ted!

Ted, the more we get to know you...YOU ARE THE MAN!

Thanks!  I enjoy working on stuff. It's a change from my 'day job'. I kind of learn as I go. Videos and YouTube help. Most of the 'knowledge' comes from forums just like this one.

 

Ted

Ted,

 

I wonder if you ever saw the PBS special show on old trailers.  It was/is extremely interesting, and goes into the whole business of trailers that were quite the thing, back in the day.  They had several of the very small "tear-drop" types shown, and these were especially cool for how much was packed into such a small space.  I think there was one that two people could sleep in -- so long as they were not claustrophobic.

 

Your little wagon here is outstanding.  Use it much??  While maybe not as severe as the Speedster madness, I think the little and old trailer people around the country are probably about as afflicted.

 

And, I'll bet it would go easily behind the Speedster, and wouldn't that be The Bomb??!!

Yup! Saw that show. Great show. Ours was a 1955 "Benroy". They made about 400 of them (give or take) before they were sold to a larger company. I tried to keep the design true to the originals. The exterior was 100% authentic. Interior, ours slept two, had a fully galley, and some storage for your camping gear.

 

I looked around for some internal shots, but couldn't locate any online. The interior was clear heart maple and cherry. The bed was 'full' sized.  Three cabinets across the back (your feet/legs slid under them. You had enough room to rollover/lay on your side/etc. There were two over your head cabinets in the front. They were small, but had enough room to store some clothes, your devices, papers, etc. All cabinets had vintage pull handles, etc.  I wired up LED reading lights, some overhead lights, 12V chargers, 12V outlets, USB outlests, etc. I installed killer 6 speed fan (fwd/reverse).  The 12v battery minder was great. you could plug it in and convert shore power to 12v. You could also plug in the trailer when not in use and the minder would only charge when necessary. The battery was a  yellow top and we could be 'off power' for a week. Great trailer for two people. 

 

Anyway - great trailer. The kids loved it. We used it a few times, but we needed something bigger that the whole family could enjoy. I sold the trailer and bought a speedster.

 

Ted

Aw, too bad you had to let that trailer go.  I wanted to see it hooked up to the Speedster.  Madness squared!

Ohh! That would have been sweet. What's the 'tongue weight' of a speedster bumper?  

 

I bet I could whip something up for 'weekend' trips.

Hey Ted, can I borrow you for about a week?

 

Looks good, nice work!

Oh my... The SLO event is this coming weekend!? I'd better get busy!!

What the h3ll (don't want to offend the google censors now) are you doing now Ted??

I have been color sanding my way around the car. Working on a panel here and a panel there. The hood and drivers front fender were all I had left to do.  The orange peel was exceptionally bad around the headlights and hood.

All sanded and two passes with the wool cutting pads are done. I'll wrap up the final three passes tomorrow.

LOL LOL TED...  your not trying to steal my thunder with this hoaky sanding business are you?

 

DID YOU NOT SEE MY CAR? 

 

tebs...

Nah, that's aaaaaaalllllllllll you bruh!  I'm just trying to make this ole CMC look respectable. You never know when or where the bridesmades might show up!

NOW THAT'S WHAT I'M TALIKING ABOUT!!  BRIDESMAIDS!! 

 

By the way   your car looks AWESOME cant wait to see that beast...

 

tebs

Did someone say 'Bridesmaids'?

 

Musbjim & GERD photo-bomb bridesmaid pic during SOC winery tour. 

 

HAHAHA!  

Those may have been some of the same ladies who witnessed the WereRaccoon try to attack me / boost my car last year. 

 

Artist rendering below:

Still need to clean the wheels and tires (thanks Marty!)

Looking good, Ted. Those wheels are killer! What size tire are you running on the back?

Thanks!  185 65 R15 Pirelli. The Techno wheels are 5" wide with a different offset than Mangles. I have 3/8" spacers on the rear to bump em out a bit. I'm running 1/2 spacers up front (behind the drum skins) to fill everything out more.

So... I decided to install my breather box...

Going back together!

Back together. Running good. Need to put the decklid back on and clean er up!

Feels good to see light at the end of the tunnel, doesn't it??

 

       
       

Yup! Thinking of calling Tiger and see if he can build me a bursch style exhaust. The Sidewinder is cool, but I think I want something different. Do any of you members have the Sebring or bursch style exhaust?

Great work!

one thing about the exhausts: If you make a decision for the busch style system, you have to know, you will lose to 100% the original boxer sound.

it sounds like a usual four zylinder :-(

 

What about this on: it has a real great sound, it is really well done, V2A, big pipes and it has a connector for a lamda-tool

 

for me the best choice ever! ;-)  

 

http://shop.vintagespeed.com.t...sc.12/category.35/.f

 

http://www.vintagespeed.com.tw...austsystem-main.html

 

P.s. If you are intrested, dont take the "superflow version" its in my oinion too sporty sound, i better like the usual one, also here ist the sound quiet sporty...

Jan Peter,

 

I may be wrong, but I'd guess you might be in an overwhelming minority regarding the desirability of the "original boxter sound".

 

Most guys can't run away fast enough.

Ok, showing my lack of knowledge what is a 'bursch' style exhaust? And what is a 'Sebring' style exhaust? Pics would be helpful

       
       

As I understand it, Sebring & Bursch are manufacturers who make header / extractor style exhaust systems which were popular in racing circles. One such exhaust was a Sebring/Bursch style exhaust where there were to smaller mufflers on each side and one center oval opening.



The other style I like is the two pipes exiting in middle / center.

Upon more investigation, it looks like these hang even lower than my A1. Going to have to pass.

Jan,
The vintage speed stuff isn't a merged header. Any performance concerns?

Ted

FWIW, even though the Sebring exhaust is technically "merged" (at the tip), the primaries are about 9-1/2 miles long.

 

The primaries on a true "merged" header like an A1 "Lowdown" are all the same, and just about the perfect length... but the collector sticks out the back and the exhaust options all look "less than elegant".

 

The primaries on an A1 Sidewinder are too long, and not even close to the same length. The fact is, they fit in the car better, and the performance is acceptable.

 

The Sebring's primaries are even longer. Way too long to be optimal, and the exhaust utilizes a really inelegant collector. A well designed header brings the pipes into the collector in phase with the firing order. no such attempt is made with a Sebring.

 

As much as I like Vintagespeed's shifters, the exhausts are just a better version of the stockers. They are more free-flowing, but don't use firing pulses to "extract" gasses through other cylinders. That's what makes a real header magic- the fact that beyond just reducing back-pressure, it actually creates a vacuum on the exhaust valves. I have a chart somewhere that shows how much, but the effect of the header is actually greater than the draw of the falling piston on the intake stroke (that's why valve overlap works). You get none of that with a setup like Vintagespeed's.

 

There's no free lunch, unless you could move the engine forward to the point that a short-primary merged header with a long collector and the attendant exhaust bend would fit under the apron. An IM comes close, but not enough.

 

I tried. I ended up with a Sidewinder.

A1's weren't around when I originally built up Pearl's exhaust system, and there really weren't many (like three) that were truly "extractors" and one of those was from Europe.  

 

From my really old dune Buggy days and even older Motorcycle days, I really wanted a true extractor system, so I eventually ended up with a Berg extractor, even though I ran up against all that stuff Stan mentions....particularly, how it hangs a bit too low and sticks out a bit too far in the rear AND has those two, big, honkin' mufflers hanging out there under the rear valence.  

 

That said, the Zoomies are the right diameter with good, equal length, their positions into the collector are good, the collector is gradual (making it a bit long, but what'cha-gonna-do?) and they even separate the output of the collector, anticipating the dual mufflers.

 

And, MAN!  Does it ever work GREAT!  It fit in with the rest of the system (heads, ports, cam, induction - the whole Enchilada) and puts the icing on the cake, so to speak, for the mid-range torque I was always looking for.   If I was going for a system for the track (lots of higher-end power and more pull to cool the heads, etc.) I would not necessarily have opted for this system but, for the street?  For me, it's been perfect.

There is a verry special thing about the vintagespeed exhausts!!!

The four lines of the four cylinders are the same length!  The lines of the cylinder 2 and 4 make a longer way inside of the muffler. Thats the special thing of the vintage.

As I know vintage is the ony one who does it this way. Our most famous type 1 builder here in Germany (we call him the pope of type1)   http://www.rbernauer.de  makes his biggest performance with them. In his opinion it's the only exhaust that combines performance with original 356 Sound

 

 

Stan is right. I have a Sebring-ish exhaust on my Spyder. Mid-engine placement allows extra room for the exhaust. Mine works well, but I've never measured the lengths. I do know that my motor was dyno'ed and jetted with the exhaust I have on the car. You should see Lenny's Tangerine Racing custom-made on his type4 Spyder. It is pretty damn good.

You guys are a bounty of info! Where would I be without you guys?



Bring on the 4th of July!  I wish that flag wasn't hung up on the light pole.

Jan,

 

I don't mean to argue with you.

 

The Vintagespeed exhaust is well made, and the primaries are the same length. But they don't come together into a single collector, so they don't "pull" on the other pipes. I don't seem to be explaining it in a way you understand, so I would point you to A G Bell's book "Four Stroke Performance Tuning" later renamed "Modern Engine Tuning" (click the link for an online PDF). Go to Chapter 6 and start reading- I did about 5 years back, and ending up reading it 4 or 5 times. I still have a hard-copy of Chapter 6 in the night-stand. I think this stuff is about as cool as it gets. I'm weird that way.

 

Danny,

 

Yeah. Anything Tangerine Racing makes is amazing. The Tangerine Tri-Y is the best kept secret in this hobby- an absolute work of art, but unfortunately unavailable for Type 1. I contacted Chris a few years back about making me a custom one, but I ended up just building and exhaust (then another, then another).

 

If I were doing this again, I'd just build a 2.8-ishL Type 4 with a 1-5/8" Tangerine Tri-Y, and be done with it.

No, never argue ;-) we are on the same side of live ;-))

I know about these things, on my Buggy I have got the super competition from CSP.

And I know, the concept of the 4 in 1 systems might be the best. 

But I`m quiet sure this makes only a difference, when we talk about real perfomance engines with hot cams and big overlappings. like Engle 130 a.s.o.

for the 1915 with it`s "close to stock" cam. A free flowting system like the Vintage`s one is more than enough, I think...

 

For me there are some things that also matter a lot : optic and sound. And there is a lot of it in this exhaust :-)

 

One more thing about the Vintage: Alwas, when a Speedster passes my way, I have firstly a look on the exhaust. If i see a VW bug style exhaust with it`s ending in the wrong position, I know, its a Replica.

 

The exhaust pipes and endings of an original 365 are in a much lower Position.

The Vintagespeed is especially builded for 356 Replicas and brings the tailpipe in the right position.

 

Cheers Jan

'Murica...
Sorry about the brown California lawn.

LOL LOL   'DONT FROWN ON BROWN"!!!   HMMMM  I water mine with Guinness Its as green as Irland lol  .....   funny thing is you guys are getting our water  Thanks for protesting Ted!!   You need to put a sign up that reads " GIVE THE CENTRAL VALLEY IT'S WATER BACK, LOOK AT MY LAWN WE DONT NEED IT" lol lol   

 

Or AS Terry Nuckles Lawn care guide (Circa 1963) would suggest.. spray it with

 "LAWN GREEN KRYLON"  

 

tebs    

    It never fails...About the time my 'enthusiasm & energy' begins to slip into apathy somebody posts a photo of magnificent BLACK SPEEDSTER that recharges all my madness batteries!...Such as Ignacio's black VS, or his 'cousin in Samoa' sporting those magnificent wheels on his black speedster...and now Ted's smooth iconic example of a head turning/thumbs up black speedster!...I'm able to even overlook the dust on Wolfgang's, and am looking forward to when he rolls it out of his barn/garage into the Florida sunlight for us all to admire.

 

   Don't get me wrong. I don't disparage any speedster clothed in any color, but black pushes all my buttons!...An analogy would be the radiant image of a lady in a sultry black gown adorned with just the right, and tasteful, coordinates. She simply stands out from the crowd!    

 

        

So, funny story... When I first started looking I was dead sent against black. Not sure what happened

Now I can't imagine anything else.

I wanted Black. Many years ago, I had a Datsun 260z, Black.  To make a long story short, the CFO said no black.  Oh well the next one...Black.

 

Ted, your car, with your mirror finish, and  Thooose wheels !!! Good for you!!

 

Art

 

 

Carl, that's why it's called "the little black dress"

True story:

 

Pearl started out in Black Gel Coat.  Same interior and everything, just black with black-spoked Fuchs.  Looked a lot like Wild Bill's "Blackie".

 

Then, about the time I was getting her bodywork finished, the guy in the next office shows up for work in a new, '99 Audi in Pearlescent White.  That did it for me.

 

 

 

 

Quick, you eastern SOC'ers......

 

Where was this picture taken??

I know this may sound a little weird.  I am also a fan of black.  My car is Mercedes beige/gray.  I'm thinking about removing all trim pieces, essentially outlawing the car, painting it black but leaving some beige/gray gumballs to match the interior.  Would go nicely with a hard tonneau that I picked up.  My wife says the beige/gray color is the only thing she likes about the car.  Maybe just a beige/gray outlaw.  Hmm.  I need a bada$$ look to go with my car's new found power.

How can you not like black?  On the other hand daily washing comes with it, Griot's random orbital polisher needs to be used for swirl marks more often...   Ray

Phil, better not change the color or you may end up sleeping in the Speedster...LOL.

You could still 'outlaw' the beige-gray and paint on black roundels instead...then you'd both be sort of happy.

Yes I've thought about that too.  Does anyone now if Carey does fiberglass and paint?  Indiana is a lot closer than B.C.  Car is perfect mechanically.  Yes I know it needs a turbocharger...but besides that.

Carey most definitely does. They mold the Fiberglas on site in Indiana and have their own in-house body & paint shop.

> On Jul 7, 2015, at 10:46 AM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

Thanks Tom.  Sticking with beige/gray without gumballs probably the way to go.  Beige/gray hard tonneau with dark brown leather, though I have thought about painting the tonneau black.  My wheels are powdercoated black.  Thinking about black Outlaw script with black fog lights.  Semiblackification.  Oh.  My hardtop is black.

Carey also does classic Porsche restorations, so you know the paint work has to be good.

Because I live where bugs go to settle down and raise their little bug families. Bugs who don't live here get together and have little bug trade-shows and conferences here, and come to vacation from other places. Once they're here, they despair of living and feel the need to end it all all over the front of any vehicle driving more than 5 mph.

 

Also, we have a highway department dedicated to covering the earth under a thin belt of cinders. Years form now when archaeologists dig up Illinois, they'll find a 1/2" thick layer of cinders on top of crumbling asphalt. I'm pretty sure the DOT uses the entire yearly allocation for road upkeep on cinders. They spread them pretty much all winter, then make a half-hearted attempt to sweep them up in August or so. I've got a spare lot where the township pushes the snow from our cul-de-sac- every spring there is at least 6" of cinders in the ditch. I'm thinking of saving them for my own 1930s track and field stadium. 

 

I suppose the theory is that eventually they will deposit into the potholes, but we're a good application of tar away from the 'ol tar and chip asphalt roadway. I actually did this to fill a big hole in front of my driveway. I just took a broom out and swept the cinders into the hole, then got some blacktop sealant and dumped it over the whole mess. It was the only improvement (besides our daily application of cinders from December to May) that my street has ever received.

 

So yeah, black is cool, but not for me. 

Gordon, 

 

In front of the old Carlisle hotel - not sure what year.  

Close......In Carlisle, in front of the Ramada, just outside of the Portico and looking towards the big Truck Stop.  

 

I'm guessing around 2006 or 2007, photo taken by Nick Wolwolnia (deep blue IM from Toronto) and one of my favorite photos with my son.

Well, that was fun!

Borrowed Theron's welder and relocated the parking brake up under the dash this weekend.  Need to order a new carpet kit and a few springs, but it's almost done.

Learned to weld (*poorly*) and copied Chris's bell crank brackets from his outlaw. Used an original 356 handbrake and bell crank for the rest of it. Need to relocate the headlight harness and hook up some springs to take up the slack when the handle is at rest. I'm Impressed with how smoothly it works.



The carpet is pretty threadbare and trashed under the ebrake boot. I'll order a new kit from Henry.

Anybody need a black ebrake boot and a chrome ebrake handle?

Looking good Ted, hope it holds the car better than mine 

Thanks! I have 4 places to adjust the uptake of slack. I'm hopeful that I can make it work. Carpet kit is 4-6 weeks out. Gauges are 8-10 weeks out!!

Patience is a virtue.

Ted

Very cool, Ted! I had no idea you were planning on relocating your e brake.

I guess that puts the kabosh on drifting, eh?

Nice job on the E-brake fabrication, Ted!