Glad you got it charging! It does seem like Magic, doesn't it?
It's easy for me to offer advice, and sometimes it even works out!
No charge for the tossed Chicken Bones, either.
DannyP posted:So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
I gave them to Troy with the old discs! Maybe i forgot to tighten the select a drop?
thankfully the driving season is almost year round in northern CA........
Ha! Good point. I'm not too concerned about this driving season. I've been driving the A. 
I've been kicking around the idea of getting the car painted this year, so we'll see what happens next.
While troubleshooting my soggy clutch I found out that my clutch tube is broken free from the front and rear mounts. I need someone with a welder to come bail me out. Maybe I haul it to Ken Jansen to have him fix it.
Pooooop!!
An alternate fix ( if you know exactly were they are broke) you can drill a hole above and below the tube secure the tube with a hose clamp ..not the best method but functional.
Look at the driver side of the tunnel for original spot welds for the tube. Cut a slot there. Remove the shifterand push the original tab out and re-weld.
Ok...here's an Ozzy..."no more tears" approach and it's easy and permanent.
The Bowden tube is at the rear most part of the clutch cable assembly and it puts forward pressure on the clutch cable tube which is welded in several places along the tunnel and also at the most aft place where that tube exits the body. ( aft end of tunnel ) . These welds can fail and make your clutch go US. Many cures may be suggested.
Here's an easy fix. Imagine if you could weld up a simple fitting that would prevent the front end of the Bowden tube from putting any forward pressure on the clutch cable tube, welds broken or not ?
Check this simple fitting out that I developed a few years back. I photo'd it badly because here you see it left to right and really it should go in the opposite direction.
Weld a small tube that the front end of the Bowden tube will slip over onto to a small cross bar that will lean against the aft end of the bodywork and that will prevent any forward motion of the tube, thus making the clutch work properly when any or all welds are in anywhere in the tunnel. No more tears and this method has been in action for many miles.
$59.99 US ( plus HST in Canada ) painted , or powder coated add only $30.00 more shipped anywhere in North America free OR make it yourself for $2.00.
Attachments
Images (1)
TRP posted:DannyP posted:So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
I gave them to Troy with the old discs! Maybe i forgot to tighten the select a drop?
@TRP I have a set if needed/wanted
Bill Prout posted:TRP posted:DannyP posted:So maybe just switch back to standard spindles????
I gave them to Troy with the old discs! Maybe i forgot to tighten the select a drop?
@TRP I have a set if needed/wanted
Hey Bill,
Thank you for the offer. Troy packaged my originals up and sent them out to me.
I just need tonswap em out and then fix up this clutch tube.
Tow it up in the morning. In at 8 and should be done before noon
@Anthony
I hear you, buddy. I'm buried with events for Corinne and Austin (my children). Hopefully things will slow down in a few weeks. I'd like to start driving the car again. I feel like it's been down since August of 2017! That reminds me!... I need to harass Mike Lempert about my replacement wheel. 
Ted
I understand, Daughter played softball every weekend......if you change your mind we can always get it done!
Okay! I think the clutch problem is solved. Tube is all welded back in place. Holes patched. I also found that the little tapered bolt was not fully engaging with the detent in the transmission shift rod. This was creating a bunch of slop. That's all fixed.
Next up... "The why so low?" needs to be addressed. After that... Should be nearly ready for paint and body!
Okay! I uninstalled the drop spindles and installed the standard spindles. In that process I realized the I hadn't reset the ride height to as high as it could go. Do I cranked the beam to the maximum height I could. I found I now had 2 inches between the top of the tire and the wheel arch. * huge sigh * I found my problem. I went ahead and uninstalled the standard spindles and reinstalled the drop spindles. The car now sits at a nice 23 1/8" to the top of the wheel arch. It has a ton of downward travel before the shocks and ball joints botrom out .Good enough for me. No more riding like a covered wagon. Yay!
I drove it a few miles yesterday. Everything works as it should. Trans is very tight. I also still have some air in the lines as the breaks are weak.
Today I eyeballed the alignment. 1/8" to 3/16" of toe out. That will get me to the alignment shop. I raised the rear up a 1/2" or so. So the car sits level. Maybe a touch nose down.
Need to adjust the clutch a bit and reinstall the engine tins.
After all that, it will be driveable again. Yay!
Still waiting on my replacement wheel from Mike.
Need to find a paint shop I can trust. Stone Gray or Black? Maybe the metallic silver blue?
.Alignment is eyeballed. 1/8" to 3/16" of toe.... IN.
Too bad to you are on the left coast, I 've been using the same painter in PA that does show quality at half the price.
5710 Stone Grey
Toe out is for autocross. I use 1/16" to 1/8" toe IN!!!!!!
Oh man. LOL. Thanks, guys. I'll fix that today.