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If the Pentronix is a pile, what's the right distributor and ignition to put in there?  

To be fair - I've only had the pleasure of driving the car on the freeway (mostly) since I've been trying to sort out this ignition issue.  Maybe I need to find some curves and have some fun.  There is the other issue that I haven't driven the car for a while. I've only put 2800 miles on it since I bought Tom's motor!  it's possible I  forget what the 4 speed was like.

I've noticed the 5 speed is significantly louder in 3rd and 4th. I'm assuming that's normal. 

Regardless of all that, I'm super excited to have the car running and drive-able again.

Ted, when we discussed the five speed a while back I mentioned that the third and fourth will be louder than the stock gears due to the gear tooth cut. [aftermarket gears]. Also the front berg mount with the alum spacers transmit more noise.

the pertronix is a hit and miss. some customers have no issues and others been thru a couple of modules. remember you can't leave the key in on position while engine is not running because it will burn the unit up. Mitch has had good luck with the CB unit and we have installed a few MSD units with great success.

Last edited by Anthony

What the heck have you guys been up to!?  I haven't replied here in over a year?! 

Here is what has been keeping me busy:IMG_3033_smIMG_3034_smIMG_3035_smIMG_3036_sm

Started out as a good runner.  Poor paint. Okay interior.  I went nuts and completely redid the entire car top to bottom.   

Here is the punch line... Tinkering with the notion of a ...  5 speed!

Now that this one is done I can shift my attention back to the Speedster. 

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Okaayyyy! I have had an issue with the Speedster since putting in the motor/5 speed. The car would just die when driving it. After about 20 minutes or so it would buck a little bit and die. After a bit... It would just start again without any issue.  

When I installed the motor I "upgraded" to an AN6 stainless steel fuel line setup. It buttoned up the engine nicely. 

The last time the car died and wouldn't restart I noticed the fuel pressure gauge was buried on 0 with the fuel pump running. When the car started back up... I noticed the fuel pressure was right at 1.5psi. Made me wonder if the fuel was vapor locking. 

Pulled the stainless lines and swapped out with low tech rubber fuel line. Drove it for an hour. Let it idle for 20 minuted while I futzed with carb adjustment... No stalling. 

Now I have two odd carburator issues. Im running 44IDFs

1) The  fuel mixture screw for the number 1 cylinder has zero impact on the way the car idles. 

2) When trying to balance the carbs, the number 3 cylinder has more draw than the other 3 are all at 3" that other one is 4".

Need to do some internet searches / you tube research. Once I button that up... I will be placing the car up for sale.   

I never thought I would type those words.

 

First of all, 3 psi for Webers, not 1.5, that's for Solex/Kadrons.

The cylinder with no effect on screw most probably has a plugged idle circuit.

The snail gauge readings at idle can be addressed by my article on carb sync, available here for paying members and on Spyderclub.com for everyone else in Tips and Tricks section.

That hard fuel line kit should be ILLEGAL to sell. Yeah, lets put hard lines on an engine that grows maybe 1/4" and then shrinks when it cools. Can you say metal fatigue? Eventually, those lines are going to crack. When that happens, I don't want to be around.

That kit could be fixed with a 2" long flexible hose between the carbs.

I just worked on an engine that has that setup and told hi, to get rid of it or modify it.

@TRP bring the carb with both barrels reading 3 up a touch with the idle speed screw on that carb. On the carb that reads 3 and 4, bring the low barrel up with the idle air bypass. Then re-balance and make it happy at idle with all 4 throats the same at whatever idle speed you prefer. Don't shoot for any particular reading, just all 4 the same. Then do a high speed sync.

Last edited by DannyP

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