How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

Anthony posted:

Just to add to ALB comment on winter project. I have 3 friends and customers that I recommended to buy it in stages. Send berg a deposit. They average 2-3 months before they complete the kit. One must decide on what mainshaft gear combo and ring and pinion. Then your third and fourth gears, shifter, berg mount, core trans, axles, diff? And so on. Once your at the point of the kit being ready your trans builder will be needing a few weeks. A year goes by and enjoying that extra gear.

That's what Anthony suggested I do, a pseudo 12 step program.   I'm at the 'decide which 3rd / 4th gear' step. I admit that I jumped a head a few steps and I have my mid mount ordered and it will arrive with the 5 speed kit. The only parts I have left to buy are the 3 & 4 new gear sets, the 10 tooth spiders, and axle end gears. I'm not sure what I'll do about the axles. Maybe stock? Maybe used? Maybe Anthony's race axles? 

Can't wait!

Ted

Unless you're developing enough power (150-160 minimum) AND have enough traction (slicks and suspension specifically set up to drag race, which is contrary to what we do with our cars) to lift the front wheels I wouldn't worry too much about breaking stock axles. The important thing when you take axles off a car is to keep them on their respective sides. 15 tooth end gears go with 10 tooth spiders, and 17 tooth end gears go with 11 tooth spiders, and the superdiff housings are machined slightly different for each. You were talking about using a different trans builder this time around- given your reasons, I'd probably be doing the same. It's one thing to be loyal to the guys who take care of you, but if they're not, then.... Your canucklehead buddy Al.

Lookin' sharp, Ted!

Thanks!

I spent yesterday trying to flare the stainless steel fuel lines. Man, that's impossible. Flaring Stainless is grounds for sainthood. I need to buy a better a better tool. The die would push the stainless out of the jig and not flare the end. I decided to hold off on the stainless hard lines. I'll put them in when I install the 5 speed.

At this point the 2054 motor is back in the car. All hooked up and ready to fire. I went to key the starter and the battery just doesn't have the juice to spin er up. It had been giving me warning signs that it was tired. On cold mornings it would barely spin the 1915. A blip of gas would usually fire it to life before it lost all juice. I could have jumped it last night but I wasn't in a rush. I cranked it a few times to spread the oil around. I ordered a new battery on Amazon. It should be here today.

The SyncLink is on the carbs. I need to run the throttle cable to the front and get that all set up. Hooking that up will help with starting I'm sure.

One step at a time...

I had the same experience with SS hard lines. I tried to bend and flare multiple times and it never worked...especially the flaring part as my tool was doing the job.

I ended up ordering a spool of copper/nickel hard lines and it was a LOT easier to work with. I almost went full copper, but decided not too.

page 21 -- way to go!!!

Think of this as my personal blog about my car and the updates I've made. At the rate it's going so far, there really shouldn't ever be an 'end' to the thread.

yes, I have sensed exactly what you say.  Fascinating, really.  A lot to learn from all of this.

You can do what you'd like, but there isn't any reason I can think of to use SS lines over Al or Cu. I've heard all the arguments-- but SS is hard to bend, hard to flare, and hard to work with.

Considering the fuel lines in most of these cars are brittle old rubber with rotten plastic fuel filters hanging above sparky distributors, I think any hard-line is probably an upgrade/overkill.

I'm as insane as the next guy. All my hard-pipe is either Al or Cu.

El Frazoo posted:

yes, I have sensed exactly what you say.  Fascinating, really.  A lot to learn from all of this.

Hopefully some of it is positive and not just a documentation of a slow downward spiral into madness. 

As I think I said here or elsewhere, if you are bent (pun intended) on SS lines, they can be hooked up quite easily with Swedgelock fittings.  No special tools required.  Kinda pricey, but work like a champ.  A good tubing bender will be required to get the bends, and maybe a little extra muscle, but no reason it can't be done.

. . . and there is nothing slow about the spiral into The Madness.  Those afflicted go quite readily and fast.

Okay! We have a runner! I pulled the synclink and installed the hex bar linkage. I wanted to minimize changes so I could isolate any potential issues if they came up.  The motor starts and runs.  I gave synching the carbs a shot.  I think I got it mostly correct. I'm going to go back this week and try to double check the mixture settings. I'm concerned because I started with the mixture with one full turn out. I had to turn them out to get it to run better, not in like the documentation suggests.  I'm going to check the final settings to make sure I understand where the needles ended up.

Thanks,

Ted

One turn out to start with is a tad on the lean side (he says, knowing snot about what carbs you're running).  I usually static-set them at 1-1/2 turns out from a soft bottom and then go from there, playing with them in the usual turn-in-til-it-stumbles then out-til-it-smooths-out dance.  

Anyway, sounds like you're getting there!  Hurray!

If all you had to add was another 1/2-1 turn then as Gordon said, you're in the ball park. 

44 IDF with .60 idle jets. Need to pull one of the mains to get a number off those. Sounds like I'm in the ballpark. One frustrating item is that this distributor doesn't have a mark on the distributor body for TDC on number 1.  There is a sharpie mark on the outside, but that Mark is a 1/4" wide.  I'm sort of estimating the timing here. 

that mark is a starting point.  rotor should line up with number plug wire.

set initial timing at 8-10 BTDC. Total should be no more than 30 degrees.

Thanks! That makes sense as to why it wasn't as precise as I had expected it to be.

So yeah, the car runs strong. It's up on jack stands right now. I need to get under it and adjust the clutch and run the throttle cable for the accelerator pedal.  If everything goes as planned, I could have it back on the road this week... just in time for some rain. 

I appreciate all the pointers!

Ted

I just helped a Teby (okay I stood and watched Pat Downs do the work) adjust his Weber 44 IDFs and he ended up with 60 idle jets and 135 mains. It runs like a champ. 

Two years ago today I took delivery of my speedster. Hardly seems like it's been a year. The California weather this winter has made it difficult to get out and enjoy the car. I have literally put 0 miles on the new motor.  It's funny how the car looks pretty similar to how I bought it even though I've spend countless hours on it.

My modifications have slowed down considerably the second year. Looking back, I sure didn't do a whole lot to the car. I think I did the 1915, the trans, the head lights, and the Setrab, and the wheels early in 2016.  Recently I've replaced the Brazilian gauges with original VDO units. I'm on the fence about getting a paint job and new interior. Considering going with a much lighter disc set up. The five speed is looming out there in the distance. It'll happen, just a matter of waiting for the pieces to literally come together.  

I finally have the 2054 running. The California weather hasn't allowed me to actually drive it yet. I installed a new 5800rpm rev limiter, cap, and coil.  I static timed the motor to 10' BTDC. I did my best to adjust to best lean idle. The IDFs really seemed to quit being so damn cranky once I put the synclink on. Before they would pop and backfire when I applied the gas.  

Looking forward to driving the car more this year. 

Looking forward to seeing you, Alexis and that bad-ass Speedie of yours in SLO! 

SyncLink. The Weber Whisperer...

Ted:

  Is your rev limiter adjustable ?

In reading Terry Nuckles book "Peddle To The Mental," "Story of a Crazed Street Racer", (Circa 1966)...    it might be wise to set it between  62-6400 your engine should be able to handle that.

Brecause after the break in of 500 miles with 30wt Brad Penn Oil, your going to romp on it and find yourself at 5800 quickly,  and you dont want to impede yourself with the rev limiter kicking in as you TRY and catch me on the 1   

Tebs   

 ps.....   way to go on your car man!!  Cant wait to see you both this year   should be fun as always ..

Terry, I can loan you my motor from my 56?

I'd rather have the complete car, Tony!

Why don't you drive it down to SLO with me?

Maybe?   

I don't know, Mr Tebs, about setting a rev limiter to what the redline is guessed to be.

If you think about it, all engines have rev limiters - sometimes it's the rods, sometimes the main bearings, sometimes the heads, sometimes the pistons. If you run it at the redline long enough, sooner or later something will do a great job of limiting all those fun-loving revs.

An extra add-on, after-the-build, just-in-case kind of rev limiter is supposed to be a less expensive way of doing the same thing. It's an especially good idea if the driver is young, fun-loving, and half-drunk on the sweet ambrosia that is early spring in California.

Or maybe you want Ted's little motor to go boom before he catches you on the 1?

Mr Mitch... Mr Mitch....   May I call you by your first name Mr Mitch?   

That's the last thing I'd want to happen to Teds motor...  I need it to stay in tact so Roberts wife Nancy can get it back home for me!!      LOL LOL  

Tebs.......

Just Kidding Ted!!  we are racing only for the GUINNESS!!

Nancy's going to start practicing driving a stick shift tomorrow.  It's been a few years and she's a tad rusty.

Ted- You said you didn't do nearly as much to the car in year 2; does that mean you were out driving it more?

ALB posted:

Ted- You said you didn't do nearly as much to the car in year 2; does that mean you were out driving it more?

It's that, or I ran out of money.

*sigh*

I remember when I used to have a car I could get in and drive.

The weather cleared up yesterday so i finally had a chance to pull the car out of the garage and take it for a spin. The second I pushed in the clutch I new I had a problem. The clutch pedal has a good amount of resistance (I'm assuming that's the Kennedy pressure plate), Depressing the clutch pedal is met with a whistle or howl. If I press the pedal in all the way I get what sounds like metal on metal (assuming the TO bearing is hitting the trans main shaft?)  The noise goes away once I let out the clutch the noise goes away. I assume it's a throw-out bearing issue but I'm perplexed because it was fine with the 1915.  Someone else suggested it could be an issue with the bearing in the gland nut.

Seems a shame to have to pull the exhaust and one of the carbs to pull the motor out.  It is what it is. 

Hey longfella - you want to sell me back the 1600 with the Kadrons? Simpler times. 

Ted

In the words of TRP....hehehe he said gland nut!!

ted,

 this is the new motor and did you check to see if it was set up for the same throwout bearing as your previous engine clutch T/O bearing?

there are early and late. each use a specific throwout bearing and pressure plate

I was just thinking that when I came back here to see your reply. I'll need to look at the back of the old 1915 and see what the pressure plate looked like. I don't know if I have a photo of the new motor & it's pressure plate.  I bet that's it. 

Old pressure plate:

I bet the newer one looks like this:

No centering collar...

Silly Ted...

Ted;

My apologies for barging in on your 2054cc  thread.

Your 1915cc, what were the pluses versus  your 1600cc and minuses?

(I frankly missed the step from 1915 to 2054)

Thanks,

Art

For a bench mark I have a 1641cc, DP, twin Solex/Kadron 40's. 

art posted:

Ted;

My apologies for barging in on your 2054cc  thread.

Your 1915cc, what were the pluses versus  your 1600cc and minuses?

(I frankly missed the step from 1915 to 2054)

Thanks,

Art

For a bench mark I have a 1641cc, DP, twin Solex/Kadron 40's. 

 

Hey Art!

The 1600 i had was old and tired. Dual Kadrons, SVDA and A1 sidewinder. Maaayby 60hp.  The 1915 ran the same carbs, distributor, and exhaust . I'd guess... Mayby 85/90hp? It ran good. Ballanced crank, rods, and pistons. It would rev to 5,500/6k pretty quickly. Fun motor. Ran warm in stop and go traffic so I put the setrab on it. Had an annoying oil drip. 

Both motors were dead on reliable. You can tune Kadrons in your sleep.

Why did I change motors 3 times in two years? Torque is one hell of a drug. 

Oh... and Art - My thread is open to all manner of questions. Don't feel like you need to apologize.

Ted:   My Friend ........   The one great thing about this thread is that you have consistently chronicled your journey with the new enhancements being done to your car. Might I add,  at you own doing, which I find admirable...   

Can I offer this advice?     When doing these car projects I have learned that its better to replace it with "new" than keep the existing..  IE: NEW bolts, washers, throw out bearing etc.  This often resolves future issues that may occur. When I was in the midst of my super secret engine build and replacement I didn't use any existing hardware..  I just felt better knowing that everything is new and solid. 

so!!    Again  Great job keeping this blog alive with all your endeavors, I've enjoyed a lot of the comments and advice and I'm totally looking forward to see her on the road..  I may come visit ahead of the June run as I want to put more break in miles on miss Jill..

Thursday Grab a Guinness on me!! 

Tebs

I'll take all your old parts Teby. 

TRP posted:

I was just thinking that when I came back here to see your reply. I'll need to look at the back of the old 1915 and see what the pressure plate looked like. I don't know if I have a photo of the new motor & it's pressure plate.  I bet that's it. 

Old pressure plate:

I bet the newer one looks like this:

No centering collar...

Silly Ted...

The 1600cc had the top pressure top. The old original looking one. The 1915cc has the bottom pressure plate.

I thought the T/O was based not the transmission you have and not the pressure plate??

Longfellow

I bet if you look closely at the 1915 pressure plate you will notice a metal collar around the center fingers on the pressure plate.

The transmission determines which throw out bearing you use. In turn, the throw out bearing determines which pressure plate you use. The later style throw out bearing does not use the center collar. You can't use the early style throw out bearing with the later style pressure plate (specifically ones without the centering collar).

With the early style throw out bearing the center collar ties the fingers together. Without the center collar the early throw out bearing skids along the open fingers and engages the pressure plate erratically.

Hope that makes sense. I rambled.

Grabbed a Guiness on Teby early did you?

This is most likely a good representation of the pressure plate on the 1915. Note the centering ring on the 'fingers' (springs).

I put another 6 miles on the car today. I pulled the motor and removed the clutch disk. 5 of the 6 springs on the clutch disk were broken. Some of the springs were broken in multiple places. 

I put the centering ring on the pressure plate. Installed a new clutch disc, throw out bearing, and clips. Car runs strong. The clutch chatter is gone. Glad to have it on the road again.

What would cause those springs to break like that?

I've never seen springs on the disc break, Ted...

TRP posted:

 

...What would cause those springs to break like that?...

Ted, a wise man once advised me not to put in a clutch disc with springs because it's very hard to find one anymore whose springs are not made in the People's Republic of Cheesy Car Parts.

Apparently, those springs are made from a very rare alloy that is 10 per cent high-carbon steel, 40 per cent sawdust, and 50 per cent lychee nuts.

The wise man said, "If thy clutch would chatter, avoid the valley of the springs and follow the Kush Lock path to eternal happiness."

And you know this wise man, Ted. He lives in Auburn, California.

A warped flywheel can cause driven clutch disc springs to fail.  It's always a good idea to surface the flywheel on a clutch job.  Long-term slippage can also heat the springs, making them brittle and easier to break.  If your flywheel is bad, you'll know before long, launching or not (just kidding about the launch).  In my case, cockpit problems were the culprit, but I was a mere callow youth at the time.   

aircooled posted:

AL....Yeah.......I'd like to get a Five Speed. After following all the dialog  on here I can see how close you can get to all of our "G-Spots"!!  Maybe later when I change "preferences" on what gets me excited while out cruising, I'll move "up a notch"

Winternationals are still fun. I was just looking at a photo of the Trophy Queen of the "66" Event. She was all really cute and all that but what caught my eye in this photo was how LARGE the TV camera was that was recording for the local news stations. In this case it was ABC or CBS. Now it's not a 1/4 mile race. Not 1320 feet but 1000 feet for safety reasons. Still spectacular watch though.

Cheers to you and all...............Bruce

You never posted the pic of the trophy queen...

ALB posted:

aircooled posted:

AL....Yeah.......I'd like to get a Five Speed. After following all the dialog  on here I can see how close you can get to all of our "G-Spots"!!  Maybe later when I change "preferences" on what gets me excited while out cruising, I'll move "up a notch"

Winternationals are still fun. I was just looking at a photo of the Trophy Queen of the "66" Event. She was all really cute and all that but what caught my eye in this photo was how LARGE the TV camera was that was recording for the local news stations. In this case it was ABC or CBS. Now it's not a 1/4 mile race. Not 1320 feet but 1000 feet for safety reasons. Still spectacular watch though.

Cheers to you and all...............Bruce

You never posted the pic of the trophy queen...

That would have most likely been Miss Linda Vaughn, the undisputed queen of the hot rodding world:

Ahh... Miss Hurst Shifter.

Some claimed that her displacement increased over time, but some technological progress is to be expected in all aspects of motor sport.

Sacto Mitch posted:

 

Ahh... Miss Hurst Shifter.

Some claimed that her displacement increased over time, but some technological progress is to be expected in all aspects of motor sport.

 

I did not post any recent photos of her because time was not her friend.

Still waiting on Berg and the 5 speed parts. Going on 5 or 6 months now. Completely lame that they are taking so long.  I should have picked one up from Rancho!

ted:

That's is unbelievable.  Based upon this, I'll not ever do business with Berg.  6 months. I could have built it myself. What have you, if not your reputation!

You are known as a straight shooter no BS! 

Art

FYI.   No matter who you order it from, they still have to get it from berg.

no body stocks the kits. I am still waiting on one for a customer......

Anthony posted:

FYI.   No matter who you order it from, they still have to get it from berg.

no body stocks the kits. I am still waiting on one for a customer......

Rancho has one in stock right now. If I cut my losses at this point, I'd be out the cost of the main shaft, the R&P, the spider gears and end gears I ordered from Anthony.  I have a handful of other parts I picked up (donor trans, rhino case, two heavy duty side plates, shift fork, etc.)  but at this point I'm furious that they have strung me along this long. 

Every 30 days since I sent them my parts I've called Tim. Each month he's told me something else was holding up the process. First it was the CNC of the nose cones. Everything else was on track. Then it's something else. Then it's the hardened shift selector rods.

There are at least 8 others in this same boat. I'm going to post on The Samba and see who else is tired of being strung along.

Since Dee (Gene's widow) has taken over the reigns after Gene died, the business model GBE subscribes to has been pretty hard to understand. They're out of stock for months, even years at a time of some of their biggest sellers (one eg.- deep sumps), when they do make a manufacturing run they sell out pretty quickly, and then they're out of stock for eons again. I (and a host of others out here in VW land) don't get it.

The 5 speeds are a rather unique situation because as well as their initial investment for having the end cones and intermediate (gear) sections cast and then machined, there's mods to the customers' parts as well, and to be economical they do them in batches (of 10 I believe). I know it's a pain in the @ss, Ted, but hang in there. You have to remember that they're doing something no one else does. It's worth it in the end. Al

ps- Did you start with a donor trans or use parts from the trans in the car? Can you and Anthony cobble something together so you can drive the car while you're waiting? I do understand the frustration, especially if the car is down.

I picked up a 3.88 R&P and main shaft from the Samba. I then picked up a donor trans off of Craigslist for 100.00. I still have a trans in my car. It's one that Ken Porter built for me a little over a year and a half ago.  Rancho has a complete 5 speed trans right now.  

I just hate to be led on. Nothing is worse to me than when someone can't be honest about a delivery date. 

Do any of you know anything about the subarugears conversion?

I hear you, Ted. 

I just spoke with Tim. He said the shafts are at the guy who's doing the 'hard chrome' work (?)  He said it should be 'about a week'. Let's say I get the parts by the end of July. Ken Porter is usually backed up 8 to 12 weeks. That puts us out to... November.  If I get the spider and end gears from Anthony I can take it to Teby's guy - might get it done in this calendar year.  

Unless I buy one outright - I don't see this thing being built and installed in this driving season. At this rate it will be a year before I get it built and installed.  

Let this be a lesson to anyone who's considering buying vs building.

I can still cut my losses and get one from Wright: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...etail.php?id=1588600 

If you can afford it, I would buy the one from Rancho and install it and continue to needle Berg until that one is done and delivered, then sell it and recoup your money.

Wow! I assume the Berg is partially or totally paid for and you can't  cancel the order without some pain. Sorry you are being treated like this. Did they commit to a delivery date on the front end of this deal?

I have noticed that they seem to be out of stock on all kinds of stuff, constantly. 

Ted,  if you want to see getting it built sooner, contact Gary berg. He advertises on the samba. He may have a quicker build time..

Anthony - will do.  I'll still need those end gears and the spider gears you ordered for me. PM me and we'll arrange shipment/payment.

Thanks!
Ted

Ohhh... the funny man in the brown truck stopped by today. 

He lost one of the two boxes he was supposed to deliver. He'll be back tomorrow.  But he left me with these:

I'm going to have to unpack and see how they look.  I'll apologize right now to Teby and Longfella. You're going to want a set of these.

Ted

Okay! So let's see what we're working with here:

Packed very well. Good looking quality. No blemishes to speak of. Impressed. 

What are they replacing?

Pretty good set of CB Aluminum/KN air cleaners which came with the cross bar linkage.  I removed all that when I installed the sync link.  The plan is to pull those air cleaners and sell the entire hex bar / air cleaner set up.

How hard can it be to install these things?

Step 1) Remove the thumb screws and pull off the rubber backed washers and the air cleaner tops and filters.

Step 2) Locate and remove the 4 nuts / washers that hold on the velocity stacks.  Stuff some paper towels down the throats to keep the gunks and fiddly bits out.

Step 3) Remove the velocity stacks and set them aside. 

Step 4) Remove the lower air cleaner base plate.  Might need to give it a little jiggly tug. Try not to damage the gasket beneath the base. Be careful of the jets and jet doctors. Don't drop any fiddly bits down the carbs.

Step 5) So far so good! No tears. Oh, man... now would be a good time to check your fuel lines. Take a few minutes to check the fuel line connections.

Step 6) Line up your base plates (new and old) and transfer the holes for your jet doctors. You do have them already installed don't you? If you have your old template, that'd be a better option here. Once you've transferred the locations, drill 'em out! Clean the base plates off of all metal shavings and debris before going anywhere near the carbs. Don't skip this step.

Step 7) Reinstall the new parts in the opposite order of what you took off. You may have to notch the velocity stacks to allow room for the funky standoff bits.  I will post pictures of that modification later.

Step 8) Step back and enjoy the view.

Now I need to buy my old 356 oil filter housing back from Longfella so I can further dress up my motor! These new air filter housings really look legit!  The metal mesh is backed with some basic 'off road' foam. I also have a new set of K/N filters to put in the air cleaner bodies. 

For those who are wondering about the size. They are the exact same size air cleaner as the aluminum ones which were on there before. The K&N filter cartage is literally the same unit.  These new ones look smaller because the aluminum base and top are notably thicker than the new ones. (cast vs stamped). 

Thanks for letting me share,
Ted

Those are good-lookin', Ted! How much?

How do you like the SyncLink?

Those look great , almost makes me miss my old engine...

Joe Fortino posted:

Those look great , almost makes me miss my old engine...

Yeah, almost.  

Great job Ted. That's looks real nice. 

Gorgeous! 

TRP posted:

Now I need to buy my old 356 oil filter housing back from Longfella so I can further dress up my motor!

I owe you considering how seamless it was to get the two engines several months ago. As of now, the 356 oil filter housing is nicely wrapped and stowed away. I thought I had an idea of what I "would like" for an engine, but it keeps changing and I would rather NOT let parts sit around if someone can use them. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks, but I'll pack it up and ship it your way when I get back

You do have a nice little empty spot to attach it to your fan shroud

Marty Grzynkowicz posted:

Joe Fortino posted:

Those look great , almost makes me miss my old engine...

Yeah, almost.  

Weenies. 

They look great, Ted. I noticed you didn't answer Terry's first question....

Plug the part number on his shipping box into Google and you'll see..........but remember you can't put a value on such beauty.

Frank C. posted:

Plug the part number on his shipping box into Google and you'll see..........but remember you can't put a value on such beauty.

Wow! At first I thought is was reasonable - $127.00. Then I realized that's for one! I guess if you're going for the original look it's the price you pay for playing. They are nice looking.

Dahling, when you look mahvelous, you feel mahvelous.

ALB posted:

They look great, Ted. I noticed you didn't answer Terry's first question....

Yeah... I was trying to find a way to reply without sounding crazy.  

*LongFella posted:

TRP posted:

Now I need to buy my old 356 oil filter housing back from Longfella so I can further dress up my motor!

I owe you considering how seamless it was to get the two engines several months ago. As of now, the 356 oil filter housing is nicely wrapped and stowed away. I thought I had an idea of what I "would like" for an engine, but it keeps changing and I would rather NOT let parts sit around if someone can use them. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks, but I'll pack it up and ship it your way when I get back

You do have a nice little empty spot to attach it to your fan shroud

:thumbs-up: Please let me know what I owe you for the oil filter and bracket.

TRP posted:

ALB posted:

They look great, Ted. I noticed you didn't answer Terry's first question....

Yeah... I was trying to find a way to reply without sounding crazy.  

That is why it's called the madness, none of this makes any sense. If it puts a smile on your face that's all that matters. 

TRP posted:

*LongFella posted:

TRP posted:

Now I need to buy my old 356 oil filter housing back from Longfella so I can further dress up my motor!

I owe you considering how seamless it was to get the two engines several months ago. As of now, the 356 oil filter housing is nicely wrapped and stowed away. I thought I had an idea of what I "would like" for an engine, but it keeps changing and I would rather NOT let parts sit around if someone can use them. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks, but I'll pack it up and ship it your way when I get back

You do have a nice little empty spot to attach it to your fan shroud

:thumbs-up: Please let me know what I owe you for the oil filter and bracket.

You don't owe me anything. I'll try and get it packed up tonight and sent your way tomorrow. If I can't, it will be a few weeks and sent when I return...

*LongFella posted:

TRP posted:

*LongFella posted:

TRP posted:

Now I need to buy my old 356 oil filter housing back from Longfella so I can further dress up my motor!

I owe you considering how seamless it was to get the two engines several months ago. As of now, the 356 oil filter housing is nicely wrapped and stowed away. I thought I had an idea of what I "would like" for an engine, but it keeps changing and I would rather NOT let parts sit around if someone can use them. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks, but I'll pack it up and ship it your way when I get back

You do have a nice little empty spot to attach it to your fan shroud

:thumbs-up: Please let me know what I owe you for the oil filter and bracket.

You don't owe me anything. I'll try and get it packed up tonight and sent your way tomorrow. If I can't, it will be a few weeks and sent when I return...

Ah.. take your time. There is no rush.

TRP posted:

ALB posted:

They look great, Ted. I noticed you didn't answer Terry's first question....

Yeah... I was trying to find a way to reply without sounding crazy.  

Good luck with that!

So, do they come with the K&N filters or do you provide your own?

crhemi (Bill) posted:

So, do they come with the K&N filters or do you provide your own?

You need to provide your own.  

+30.00 per side. I have 2 complete sets of K/N filters so I lucked out... sort of.

They do look legit. Nicely done.

Look what I found

Text me your address and I'll have it in the mail tomorrow

*LongFella posted:

Look what I found

Text me your address and I'll have it in the mail tomorrow

Po Box 291

Kapaa, HI 96746

Thanks!

crhemi (Bill) posted:

*LongFella posted:

Look what I found

Text me your address and I'll have it in the mail tomorrow

Po Box 291

Kapaa, HI 96746

 

Thanks!

I was waiting for who the first poopiehead would be LOL!

I could not let that go by...

*LongFella posted:

Look what I found

Text me your address and I'll have it in the mail tomorrow

Whoa! Hello my old friend!  Thanks!

The fun guy in the big brown truck brought me my new Vintage Speed 5 speed shifter! It's a spittin image of the 4 speed I currently have installed in the car today. Anthony suggested asking Vintage Speed if they would upgrade my existing shifter to a Berg 5.  They said no problem and offered to do it for a nominal cost: $60.00 plus 30.00 shipping. If you add in another $20.00 for a shift knob it'd be about $110.00.  A pretty good price really. The turn around time was about 3 weeks.

Because I was ordering the air cleaners already I sprung for the $190.00 a picked up a brand new one already converted to 5 speed.  I'll simply sell the 4 speed version I already have.  (I'm getting quite a pile of used parts over here... starting to look like Troy/Alan's shop!)

I also received an upgraded clutch pedal shaft. My clutch shaft has nearly 40 years on it. The clutch cable hoop end was starting to get hung up in the hook. Creating a funky 'click' when I pushed the pedal in. This part gets rid of the hook and replaces it with a hardened steel shaft and bearing / bushing for the clutch hoop to ride in. No more hook. No more hoping the clutch cable doesn't fall off when you release pressure on the cable! 

Made by Classic Bug parts. The same folks who brought us the throttle pedal upgrade I spoke of a while back.

Fun stuff!

Ted

Figured out the clutch issue. Pulled the clutch cable. Naturally it's fine. The clutch arm is cracked right at the outer end of the clutch hook shaft and the clutch tube broke free at the front mount. I also found that good old Al cut a 4x6" access hole in the passenger side of the tunnel.  That was bitter sweet.

I'll take the arm to get welded tomorrow. I will need to figure out what to do about the clutch tube.  I can't imagine I'll find a lot of people willing to try welding that sucker back on.

At least now I know what the clicking noise was. Must be something about the way I drive. I broke the pedal on my 71 Ghia in the exact same spot thirty years ago.

Parts /Shiftter  pm sent  Alan

*LongFella posted:

Look what I found

Text me your address and I'll have it in the mail tomorrow

This arrived safe and sound. Thanks Buddy.

Ted

UMMMmmmm     I new here,

    What are you all talking about in this thread?  

Tebs

Okay -- the parts are all in for the 5 speed. Now I need to make a decision on the gearing. 

The first big question is:
Do I go with a Weddle Minshaft Or stick with the newly minted one from Berg? I've read a lot of people say they don't understand why people build a 5k box and cheap out on the main shaft. Is using a Berg shaft really being cheap? Is it really a weak link? The Weddle shaft and new 1st and 2nd adds another bunch of cash to the cost. I'd still need 3rd and 4th regardless. 

Depending on the shaft I'm at a loss of what gearing to use.  Tires: 185/65/r15

Weddle: (3.75/2.25/?/?/89)

Berg: (3.80/2.06/?/?/89)

Driving: I typically spend 50% of the time on the freeway driving to or from the office. The other time I could be blasting around the curvy back roads of the bay area. Driving roads like we see on our SLO outings. I have no desire for a big top end. keeping up with freeway traffic (75/80) is a must. Acceleration is more important than top speed.  I would say, I can be hard on accelerations and may dump the clutch and roast 'em from time to time.

I know Stan said he wished he stuck with the stock mainshaft. Others say go with a complete weddle stack. 

I'm just confused (again)

Terry - what do you run again?

Thanks,
Ted

Wow! 75/80 on your freeways?

Here in Connecticut the 'fast lane' is 65/70 max. I'm personally comfortable loafing along at 60 in the right lane....although I have to admit that I enjoy goosing it around stuff sticking to the posted 55mph speed limit! 

Ted, the berg shaft is FINE for your application. the weddle is only available in a 375 first gear. if you want to waste the money on that i will give you 50.00 for the berg one you have. I  thought you have a 3.78 first with a 2.06 second. and the third and fourth should be a 1.48 and 1.14 with either the .82 or .89 depending on tire size. don't overthink it. what you got will be fine.

If you're constantly driving it like a street racer and acceleration from a stand still is important, then you'll really like the Weddle 3.75/2.25

I could go on (and on and on) about the benefits about each mainshaft, but the question is- what did you send to Berg's? The mainshaft is one of the major pieces (the other being the pinion shaft) that causes the months long hold up, so you should have a modified mainshaft in your posession- correct? If you change mainshafts at this point you'll be waiting for months again. 

I believe Terry runs 3.78/2.06/1.48/1.18/0.89 in his 5 speed. He talked about the shorter 3-4 shift being more fun when canyon carving, and not caring about the slightly longer 4-5 spacing. I had suggested (a few pages back) 3.78 (or 3.80- whatever you sent Berg)/2.06/1.48/1.12/0.89, which isn't that much different; either will be a pile of fun, as you can see below.

http://calc.teammfactory.com/i...26+2&trannytype=

You talked about being able to do 75-80 on the freeway, and the only criticism of both gearing examples above is that 3500 in 5th happens at about 74 mph, so if this is one of the non-negotiable parameters, then you need a .82 5th gear which will allow 80 at 3500rpm. A couple different ways to go- in the first example,

http://calc.teammfactory.com/i...26+2&trannytype=

the recovery rpm for each gear gets higher (as it should) a little more evenly. Otoh, the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts in example 2 are again quite short (I've kept 1.48 in 3rd and 1.12 in 4th so on the street it will be a blast!), but now the 4-5 split isn't quite as tight, although the recovery rpm is still almost 200 higher than stock 3-4 gears. I don't think the 2 are so different that (no matter which you pick) you'll wonder what the other is like.

Given the specified highway speed, I don't think you should consider the 3.75/2.25 mainshaft set- it spaces 3, 4 and 5 out too much. I have more to say- check your pm box. Al

PS- This is what your mainshaft will look like- (yours will just be a little longer)- 

TRP posted:

 

I know Stan said he wished he stuck with the stock mainshaft. Others say go with a complete weddle stack. 

Al is always going to advocate for the drag-race gearing, because he can't help himself.

I've alway thought even the stock first gear was tall to the point of uselessness (unless a guy is going with a 3.44 R/P, and then it's pretty hard to beat). With the 3.44, it'll provide more than enough "snap" to dump it and roast 'em, but not so much that you end up like me with a very, very long 1st (almost like starting out in 2nd). The main-stack I've got goes pretty far in the other direction (longer, not shorter), and was fine with a 3.88 R/P, but it's too far for a 3.44.

I'd never, under any circumstances, get a taller first gear-- unless I was a drag racer. It's just not what these cars were made to be.