How does this look?

Looks unusually clean to me.  I wish mine was like that.

From the pictures, it looks like a weeping (I would hardly call it a leak) sump cover.  Really, really common on these 60-yr-old-technology engines.  Remember, please, that oil leaks were pretty common on all air-cooled VW beetles from several sources:  The sump cover, the sump drain plug, the pushrod tubes and the non-existent "seal" behind the pulley (which was actually designed to leak a bit oil behind the crankshaft pulley).  I don't see any evidence of the last two in your pics, just the sump cover, which is "sealed" with a 1/64" paper gasket which is next to useless.  Everyone on here thinks my engine must be clean as a whistle but, when I pulled it a month ago it was a whole lot worse looking than your pictures!!

 

Aircooled.net has some nifty extra-thick silicon sump gaskets that you can more-or-less easily install with the engine in the car that will eliminate that particular leak.  I just installed a pair during my current engine " freshening" because I had a similar weep, only quite a bit worse.

 

If that is the only oil residue you have, I would jump on that car.  It'll take you (or any decent mechanic) about an hour to correct it with the proper gaskets.

 

Brad Penn "regular" oil is perfectly fine for these engines.  If you run the "green", so-called racing oil, it has more "slippery stuff" in it, which is better, of course, but the old stuff (which is really, really good Dino oil) has a lot of the same stuff and is just fine.

 

Tom took good care of his car.  Don't be afraid to purchase it.

 

gn

It is real clean, but if look close you'll notice areas where oil is gathering and getting ready to drop. I've searched this subject in previous posts, and it appears that some cars are real clean and others drip some oil. I just hate buy it and end up putting money into fixing this. Plus my wife will kill me if I do.

My reply was to Lane, but thanks Gordon. This is just an incredible site with some great folks. Some background: I've always had a thing for 356s. Found out about these cars many years ago. Went to Carlisle in 2010, but we were there on Friday while most everyone was out driving around. I spoke with a few guys in the field plus John S and Henry R. Drove Henry's used red Roadster and was hooked. During my personal and business travels, I've been to SAS, JPS, VS, and Intermeccanica. Oh yeah, CCW too. Drove cars at most of these manufacturers. Anyway, thanks for your input and I hope I can close the deal soon. If not, I'll do a new VS or JPS although I'll be looking at August delivery for a JPS.

They all seem to leak at some point and place Jeff.  Don't be afraid of this.  I agree wit the others:  it looks great!  Secondly, don't fear your wife. They can just sense it and it does not bode well.  You'll have so much fun in it it'll be worth whatever may come along.  Good luck!

Frank

P.S.  Buy one now so you can enjoy the season.

Yeah.... I was going to say the same thing.  DON'T look at mine if you're worried about that engine.

 

I wish mine was 1/100th as clean as that one.

 

I had to go back and look at the photos like 3 or 4 times, just to marvel at how clean that motor is.  Consider me jealous!

 
Ted

As the others have mentioned, it looks like a small leak around the sump cover.  If you buy the car the first thing to do would be to try to tighten the sump nuts (be careful, as these nuts don't need much ft/lbs of torque to break).

If it still leaks, take the plate off the next time you do an oil change, and replace the gasket (maybe use two) and see if that does the trick.

I noticed you have an external oil filter.  If the previous owner took out the stock metal screen, and didn't add an extra gasket, the nuts could 'bottom out' and not tighten as much as they should.

I've been with Tom on two occasions with his car during runs in central Illinois.  There is nothing wrong with it AND Tom is one straight shooter. You should have no fears with that car. He only got rid of it because of his business concerns and lack of time to enjoy it.

Tom actually traded it to a dealer along with some $$$ for property. I talked to Tom about the car, and I agree that he is a straight shooter. I was afraid that the techs at the dealer did something causing the oil to drip.

I have never owned a VW that didn't leak a little bit at various times. From the pictures, it doesn't look like much. If you are that concerned, make the seller fix any leaks as a condition of sale. My guess is you will develop other leaks you'll need to attend to occasionally and over time.

 

That was a great car when Tom owned it and it appears not to have been beaten or abused since then.

 

But, caveat emptor! 

What Ron O said X2!

The torque spec for the 6mm sump acorn nuts is 6 or 8 ft. lbs., so you have to be really careful, as over torqueing not only strips the threads in the nuts, but also will deform the plate. VW used acorn nuts on the sump plate so if you bottom the engine out the studs don't get destroyed. If there's raised edges around the holes (on the plate), it's been over torqued, and needs a little hammer work to get it flat again. The paper gaskets in the oil change kits we get these days are probably the source of the weeping; they are porous (and junk!) and need to be sealed with some sort of gasket sealer. I've heard of guys using clear lacquer (out of a spray can) and even hairspray. Hope this helps. Al

 

PS- The green Brad Penn oil doesn't stay green very long once it's been running in an engine. Don't know why; it's just an observation.

You'll be waiting until your death if you look for one that doesn't leak at all.  This is exceptionally clean and given folks' experience with this car and previous owner, I'd say jump on it.

Air cooled motors have and external dipstick, you keep track of the drips and drops and add accordingly.

 

I honestly think its the cars way of getting more attention.

...and speaking of drips and drops of oil

Drained and replenished transaxle oil this weekend.

 

Can only get the car up 12" on jack stands. The drain plugs at this height are awkward to get at, but doable without any cursing...BUT the fill plug is damn difficult to reach because of suspension obstructions. Filling it was a guessing game... and I guessed wrong!...resulting in a puddle about the size of an Italian restaurant serving platter...ugh

 

Mopped up as much as possible off the concrete and treated the ugly residue with Dawn Dish Detergent, not expecting too much...but son-of-a-gun! Instead of a black splotch all that remains are a few discolored edges that the Dawn didn't get to.

 

As soon as our two day monsoon is over I've got dozens of quarter sized tell-tale drips in the drive way (the 912 marking its territory) that's going to be treated with Dawn and hope it works as well on asphalt.

 

 

Wow!  You're particular!  Good tip about Dawn.  I'm curious if Natalie's mark still remains on the Carlisle hotel parking lot :-)

It's pro'bly indelible by now........

 

Dawn's pretty good stuff.  I've used it to remove oil spots, too, as well as a gasket lubricant when installing auto glass (but you have to gently wet it if you take a while getting the glass in as it tends to turn sticky as it dries).  Also used it to make tire beads slippery when installing them - all sorts of stuff, PLUS, when you're done it washes right off.

 

On getting Hypoid oil into the transaxle, I bought open of those filler hoses at Walmart that you screw onto the top of the quart of oil.  The better hoses actually have a twist valve at the base so you can turn the flow on and off.  Then you just hold the end of the hose into the filler opening and the container can be lower than that, as long as the bottle is inverted to make the oil flow out.  IIRC, the hose is about 18" long - plenty of length to maneuver around and get the stuff into the hole.

 

You'll still get a little leakage as it reaches "full", but more like a few drops.

 

 

"Natalie's mark"?

 

You're being too modest Tom...I recall it as a saturated ribbon from end of the Marriott parking lot to the other!

Marriott clean up efforts -

 

Dish soap is chemically very similar to hand cleaner; I remember someone posting this on the Samba. He worked at a chemical plant and knew of such things. I prefer warm water and dish soap for cleaning my hands after working on the car.

 

Carl- Asphalt is oil based so you'll find that any oil drips eat into the surface. It might be best to have a piece of cardboard handy for parking on the driveway. You could seal the driveway, but that's much more work....Al 

 

 

August delivery for a JPS?  Good luck with that!  I'd be very surprised if he could crank one out that quick.  I think the only place that will get you a car by August is Vintage.

It's a JPS coupe, but Dave Bash has waited 11 months for his JPS.

Update: Tom's old car went through a PPI at Kurt's German Autowerks. Kurt said everything looks great. Except for the oil leak. He said that the oil is coming from an engine through hole, and it likely happened when assembling the motor and a gasket/seal did not seat properly. If I recall correctly, it is the #3 through hole. Fixing would entail removing the motor, and doing a partial disassembly to correct it. Kurt stated that it could be driven and probably fixed during the off season. Cost about $1,000+. I am bummed to say the least. Not sure if I still want to go through with it at this point.  My wife said to just order a new one.  I really like the color, and the price was right, but I am not thrilled with spending that kind of money (of course I'll would negotiate a lower price) knowing that it will require major work. What do you guys think about the leak?

$1,000 to drop the engine, crack it, replace a gasket and then bolt it back in means you're paying the shop's technical hourly rate for a straight forward procedure.

 

Instead, why not consider boning up on Youtube tutorials...chilling a couple of six-pacs, pull out the metric wrenches and invite a couple of friends over for a DIY'er?..then treat your buddies to a wash up and a Bar-BQ?  

Carl makes sense - straight forward repair 

Find a new mechanic: yourself! This doesn't look like a big deal. Buy it, check the oil often, add as necessary, put cardboard under it in the garage. Someday, when you feel it is REALLY necessary, drop the motor and fix the leaks. Better yet, get some parts, have some friends over from here, drink beer, fix leaks, put it back in. Do it in the winter and you won't miss the driving time, and you'll gain some buds in the process!

Based on the initial replies to my inquiry, it appears that the oil "seepage" is relatively minor as many people noted that their motors are much worse. I take that to mean to that many people are experiencing oil seepage/leakage due to some sort of issue. Also, it appears that the repair as I/we believe it to be, and if I choose to do it, is a relatively straight-forward job.

 

I am wondering how many of you would simply keep some extra oil on hand and top it off as needed rather than doing the repair. Comments? Thanks in advance.

Since the oil leakage is mostly on the bottom of the engine (the only things on top that leak are the fuel pump base, the oil/temp senders, the alternator base or the oil cooler (which is hidden inside of the fan shroud) AND your view of the underside is blocked from above by the heat shields, I find that I can ignore minor oil leaks for YEARS (I consider a few drops on the floor after a good run less than minor).  The only time I addressed oil leaks quickly was when I was running dune buggies and the entire engine was exposed and then I fixed oil leaks only because of peer pressure.

 

Nice cartoon Gordon.

Mine leaks and I know it will eventually need some attention but I would not worry unless it was bad.  You do check your oil every time you go out right?  Add some oil as needed and take care of the issue when it finally drives you crazy or you have plenty of time (winter) to address it when it won't cut into your driving time.  Providing you can negotiate a price that includes the eventual repair, if the owner will make that concession, you'll be ok. We have a short driving season here in New England so there will be plenty of time to address issues.

Good luck, Frank.

That's what I would do and once a week I'd clean the bottom of the engine to keep it looking nice.

I've cut up some cardboard boxes and keep a supply on hand.  Every month I switch out the old stained piece for a new one. 

Wow.....

 

Either I'm very lazy or a bunch of you'se guys are neat freaks.

 

I check my oil level maybe twice a summer and hardly ever need to add any (it's never down to the bottom mark), may or may not change it every spring (I've been known to go 2 years if I haven't driven it much), spray it with de-greaser and blast it with water every couple or three years.  I do, however, nicely clean the top side of the engine compartment a couple of times each season - often with a power washer.  

 

I remember a couple of times in Beaufort when I loaded it onto the trailer and shot the under side of the engine with degreaser (way easier when it's on the trailer) then drove over to a U-Spray-It place and power washed it off.  That worked great!

 

Of course, NOW I know that it was the silly transaxle leaking and not the engine as much, but at least it got clean once in a while.

 

Yes, Danny P., I finally got the exhaust paint overspray off of the rear valence (I knew you'd remember that.)