how long is the replica body?

The most common model used as a mold is the 1957 Speedster, which is 156" or 13' long.  There may be a slight variation between makers, but that's accurate enough for a traller build/buy.   

crap I think the trailer is 12.6' x6.6,Id better go mesure it & see for sure, the ramps may be angled back. thanks, trying to get all my ducks in a row before collecting on my life ins so I can get the car.if I die the kids can finish it& fight over it.for thier $$$ but hopefuly I can sell my "new"(almost all new parts&car) race/street roadster, then repay the insurance.....before I die.or the wife ......me off. thanks, now I have somethen to do for my self tomarow.....I hope.

was that just the body or with the bumpers?the bumpers are not on this car.thanks.

If your trailer leaves no room for error, you may want to have the seller give you an exact measurement.

Mark, my VS speedster is 13' bumper to bumper. My trailer is 12' x 6'. If you don't have an enclosed trailer there should be no problem.

thanks, thats what I needed to know. I went & looked at the trayler I was thinken on using and it's 12' with 24" sides and the rear of it isant wide enough to get the car through,they must of made it like that so nobody was hauling cars on them.if the back wasent like that or was removable it would of been perfect @ $39 a day. I realy dont want to use a dolly & dont want to use one of my brothers traylers.(it's will also have to be rebuilt before hand & 4 new tires&lights too)

uhaul.  Pull on car trailer $55 daily, if you return same location.  Or rent when you get where car is and only have to pull trailer one way..

Just saying.

The length of the body isn't as important as the wheelbase and width. I have been looking for a car hauler, and have found that most are too long. A 14' car hauler would be ideal since it is lighter than the longer ones and will tow either a Speedster or Spyder (mine is 12' long) just fine.

My concern is finding a hauler that is as narrow as possible. Some of the ones I have seen on the highway are so wide that I don't see how the driver can keep the wheels of the hauler from passing over the center line.

Also, if the hauler is placed behind a motorhome, there is or should be concern about gravel, rocks, etc., flying onto the painted surface of the car, regardless of whether or not the motorhome has a skirt in back that is supposed to prevent rocks and other debris from flying out from the rear of the motorhome. These devices are about as useful as teats on a bore hog on many motorhomes.

My advice: get an enclosed hauler if at all possible....made of aluminum.

Many of us have used the VW $70 tow bars to flat tow a Speedster.  I towed mine 1k miles from VA to FL with a 4 cyl Toyota Camry.  Except for all the long gentle hills in NC - didn't even know it was there and cruised at 70 MPH.  I added $10 towing lights from Harbor Freight.  I slightly modified (narrowed 2") the tow bar to clear the mounted bumper.  If bumpers are not mounted it bolts right up - but you may need adjustable height tow receiver ($30 at Harbor Freight).  It comes in handy should you have a break down too. Just need good tires and free turning brakes. (photo of modified tow bar is before having it welded)

Here's a photo of my car hauler.  It's 16 feet-just the right size for my IM and my (now sold) track Miata.

I think my brother still has a towbar, a trailer would be my choice, if I can swing it. still doing some figuring.

wolfgang where did you mount the lights? witch ones were they? wanna rent your tow bar&lights if I dont get a trayler?I hate going to my brothers shop to do or look for anything.