How to get a non IRS set-up lower?

My speedy has a non-IRS rear set up and I want it to get the ass lower. At least another 2 inches. I don't have the option of IRS in South Africa.

I'm almost sitting at negative camber on the rear and don't want to screw around with that too much, so how stuffed am I?

this one are good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMxBolHOJR4

Hafthor, I applaud your use of the English language and with no disrespect intended, the words "are" and "is" are called linking verbs. In your last sentence, the correct linking verb should be "IS" not "ARE"
But again, you're far better at using a foreign language than I could ever be.



Regardless of the language, lowering a swing axle is relatively easy but, you'll end up with a huge amount of negative camber. The torsion bars regulate the height of the suspension. Torsion bars have 40 splines on the inside and 44 on the outside. So moving the outside 1 spline will usually accomplish what you are seeking.

REad this, it will help: http://www.mydune-buggy.com/home/dl_files/reartorsionsetup.pdf


Since the wheel is rigid with the axle tube, anytime you lower the car, this will make the transaxle sit lower and when that happens the axle tube will sit higher thus, the wheel will naturally tip in at the top.

Not knowing the complete logistics of your ride

I believe that you could lower it close to what you want without too much negative (or is it positive?) camber. Gordon Nichols has done the calculations on how many degrees you get with each notch on the spring plates. You could also switch to adjustable spring plates and then do the adjustments with an allen wrench.

David, I didn't recommend this kit as I have read somewhere that the engine won't fit in the engine compartment of a Speedster if it's raised????

Okay, thanks for the replys. The current stance of the car is a bit too high, the front is spot on, doesn't rub when I turn, but the problem is the back.

The speedster at the moment has a slight rake, which I was hoping that the heavier type 4 engine would bring down, but it's hardly done anything. I'm looking at about 1 1/2 inch to 2 inches MAX, no more.

I don't drive this car everyday, so I'm not too phased about living with it all the time. I do some spirited driving in it, but it's not a track toy. Think of it as a Sunday cruiser. But at the moment it's got the stance of a French Tart.

David: thanks for your info, I think the easiest/ (local ability to obtain parts) method is the offset spring plates. This looks like an option that I can get done locally. Why would I have to do an offset with the gear shifter?

Anyone ever done it this way?

http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=562&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Seems to be a whole lot easier and the lowering gain is pretty much what I'm after.

Quote by Larry Jowdy: David, I didn't recommend this kit as I have read somewhere that the engine won't fit in the engine compartment of a Speedster if it's raised.

Yeaaaa! I didn

Gary, have a look a photo 25---on, in

I want to give that guy on Youtube a job.... he moves fast

My poor Speed-bucket looks like a "Klaflugelpukenwagen" it sits so high!Its a 1995 CMC 56 Flared built on a 68 VW pan with 15x8's and Kumho 225/r15's all around, scary as hell to drive over 50mph.From what I've read,dropped spindles and dropped rear torsions will help but it looks like I'll have to lose the rims and tires as they are sticking out of the wells already! The wide rear brake drums don't help either,will disc conversions all around help,there are no spacers between the drums and rims. Help, I get a nose bleed driving this thing!

Looks like one of those confangled roller skates ~

Yea Greg..., it needs some, uuuu, uuuu. Well it does need help, that's for sure.

Do some research on the details of how to lower this diamond in the ruff.

Don't worry, theirs smart ass's just waiting to jump on this..., to help that is.

David

After looking at various options, I've been advised to first replace my very worn gearbox mounts and then drop the rear with one spline on the torsion bars. A buddy said that this should give me what I want without all of the grief of a gearbox lift or cutting the spring arms. I have to wait till my new motor is in as my exhaust needs to be cut and lifted as well as seeing what my final weight is.

Hopefully I won't get too much neg camber..........

I'll start with a dropped spindle disc brake conversion from CIP1 and hopefully the 2,5" drop wont make the tires hit the body.

Greg? Ever considered cutting the front beam and fitting adjusters? That's how mine was done and I was able to get the front down well over 2".


I can't understand why the rear of yours is so high.

Hi Gary,

Form what I understand you retain your full suspension with the spindles whereas you lose some with the select-a-drop cut and weld.Please correct me if I'm wrong.:)

When I put the body on my Manx the body sat high too. I was told the buggy body being lighter than a stock beetle was the reason for the rise,which makes sense. Alot of buggy builders say to drop the torsions down to sit lower,for offroad its not so bad (the extra clearance)but it does make them tippy! My Speedy body can't weigh much more than the Manx so the same rules figure.

Hey Greg

1) I went the chop and select a drop route because in all honesty, it was the cheapest route. But I don't regret it for one second. My front end was a bit harder and simply by fitting my old worn shocks, it's improved it to the point of where it originally was. Maybe a little better.

I've never used dropped spindles, but I feel that money can be much better spent on other places.

2) I can deff see this happening, My speedster however is still on stock height straight from the donor. Nothing has yet been changed. From the side view the rear wheels seem to have a bit of positive camber going on there.......

Any chance for a picture from the back showing the back wheels?

I had almost the same ride height on my car, but it had no engine in at the time.

Sorry man, I meant from way back so that you can see both left and right hand side............taken from the ground?

I finally Put the dropped spindles on with disc brakes, 15" x 7" Fuchs style rims with 225/15 50's all around with 1 1/4" Porsche spacers from a 944 on front and 4 lug VW to 5 lug Porsche adapters 1" thick on rear. The P.O had coil over shocks on rear so I put new stock oil shocks on and it brought rear lower, I'm going to get some non-Chinese adapters in the back next,I just wanted to mock things up to fill up the flares.The Monza exhaust is going and a Tri-mill euro peashooter in its place until I build the 2 litre. Thanks guys for all the great advice,Speedy is almost out of I.C.U., body,paint and upholstery on the way.

Here's a couple of shots.

Greg - good job. The stance looks much better. Good luck with the rest of your project.

Peace - Out!

Greg... there are of sellers on eBay that make a custom billet aluminum spacer adapter (they'll make any bolt pattterna combo ) for reasonable money. ~Alan

Thanks Guys...I'll check out the adapters on Ebay,want the thing to be as safe as possible.Saw a wheel come a van on the southbound 15 yesterday right in front of me.Unfortunately he hit the brakes, uturned and backflipped a couple of times finally resting upside down.He had batteries and bicycles,bricks and tools in there with him but he wasn't to beat up! Reminds me of the time my brother in law got caught talking my then 6 year old wife to be to get in the dryer with 10 coke bottles!If a tire comes off of Speedy it would be fun on the I-5 so good adapters are a must.
Ciao!

Greg that looks a million times better.......

I just want to make a point regarding the selecta drops. If you fit select-drops on both beams the spring rates remain the same, If fitted to only one beam then in order to lower the car the beam will effectivly have a harder spring rate.

By fitting to both beams you have the flexability of lowering and adjusting your spring rate. The only downside to the selectdrop method is that the travel is reduced by the amount of the drop. I am fairly sure that I dont bottom out the suspension.

I have gone fairly low, I have 18" rims and the top of the rim is just visible in the wheel well, at the rear the top of the rim disappers into the well.

Perhaps I am pro selecta drop for the same reason as Gary. To import a set of drop spindles would be very pricy.

I guess the ultimate setup would have a set of dropped spindles with a selectadrop, allowing you to change the stance depending on your mood

Greg

Just raised rear torsions 1 outside spline and it dropped just over 2" (Thanks Gordon for helpful info! :))I think it's a little 2 low...As the rear tires are over cambered and I don't like that look even tho I like the low ride height. I'll have to tweak the inner outer spline combo to get it higher by an inch I guess. Unless the rear "camber compensator" will help straighten the wheels a little."Bye the Bye" I found both motor/trans mounts were broken hence the lopsided motor (exhaust)!

Almost got run over by a gal in a truck very similar to this on yesterday! About as high as my Ford, but not as high as many around here. Might have to use a Dunebuggy lighted whip antenna to let folks know I'm down here!

Greg, a good rev of a loudish exhaust often does wonders. I've done that on a few occasions myself. I try never to get myself boxed in in my Spyder, I drive super defensive in traffic. I got hit in the rear four years ago, never forget!

Also pays to install a LOUD air horn (wired through a 30 amp relay). Cheap safety upgrade for exactly those moments.

You ride is coming along nicely!

Thanks,Guys!I think Jack Crosby mentioned a horn, I don't want a "AAAoogah!" horn, too jokey , a diesel train horn sounds loud.
ANy Ideas for a foot rest? I have nowhere to put my left foot while driving,, also any one have pros cons on the "quicksteer" unit?

Here is my Dead Pedal made from a cut off clutch pedal.

Thanks Michael,
I've seen aluminum box type things but its too crowded there already, I like yours alot:). I checked Samba on the "quick steer" unit and it sounds like a good way to die from over steering. P.O. had one installed and its scary as hell,gonna take it off in the a.m. should make steering stabler and more enjoyable. Gotta put some lower seats in next so I can see below the windscreen top moulding. Maybe 914 or something else as low,seats bolted to the pan now as it is!

Hey Michael , what kind of jack is that under the dead pedal? Looks like a cable T.V. jack.

That isn't a cable jack, that's a knob to slide the heater vent open and closed! At least I hope, Mike does have lots of gadgets in there already!

RE horns, yes, good loud ones are a must. I have a matched pair from a Subaru junkyard car. They are loud, but not wimpy or tinny. A single horn usually sounds crappy, the duals(anything) helps a lot.

Some 30+ yrs. ago, the Insurance Industry found loud Harley-Davidsons were involved in less car traffic fatalities because, Grandma with her windows closed knew it was their!

Greg, your rides looking very good and I can relate to side by side Truck / Speedster shot, mine sets 40

Gary have you looked into adjustable spring plates they allow you lto lower and tune your suspension . Roland

Roland , I wonder if I can get a 1" lift out of those adjustable springplates? I know I can dial the torsions to get up an inch, I guess then use the springplates to fine tune without the hassle of torsion adjustment. I know V.S. cars come with them so they must be reliable, course I could lose 80 lbs too!