I need to adjust the brakes on my VS speedster where is the best place to position a hydraulic barrel Jack in the front of the car and at the rear any help appreciated!
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Front : Under the axle beam Rear: Under the torsion arm plate or lower shock housing
Thank you very much!
A Harbor Freight hydraulic aluminum racing jack for $79 is much safer than a hydraulic barrel jack which just doesn't have much surface contact area. You can also get different rubber contact pads. I use a slotted one for the pinch weld contact on my Miata.
There is a diagram in the Resources section that shows exactly where to place a jack.
Great idea thanks !
Jacking points for floor jack:
Jack Stand spots after you get it up there:
I tend to put the jack stands under the torsion bar end caps at the rear (they're cast iron and tough) and out towards the outside ends of the torsion tubes at the front.
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I know I'll catch hell for saying it, but when I need to lift the back end of the car, I put a short 2x4 on top of the jack plate and put it right under the oil sump plate. I did this for 10 years with the 930 with no oil leaks and for the last year with the 1776 type 1 (with no problems, yet). I didn't try it until I did a lot of reading on the Porsche boards and saw pictures of Porsche factory mechanics doing it. It still feels a little wrong, but I haven't had any problems, yet...
Mike
I’m sorry that I do not have a “cringing” emoji.
This will have to do:
I would have thought the 930's engine mounting system would be quite different from a mid-'60s Beetle.
On the Beetle, lifting with the engine like that is basically lifting the whole car on those two little motor mounts, yes? But pulling on the rubber instead of pushing.
Obviously, it works, at least a few times.
Still, probably not a best practice. And there are ample other (metal) spots to jack on back there.
If I had to lift the car from the center of the rear like that, and couldn't reach the torsion tube, I'd get a 4x4 long enough to overlap both frame horns.
After 50 years in a car the frame horns tend to get very thin. They rust from inside out near where trans mount is. Strong supporter (pun) of Kafer bars.
I bought this hunk of chassis for the VIN and title - good price due to busted/rusted frame horn.
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I put a short 2x4 on the jack and lift just forward of the frame horns between the rear sway bar and the tunnel drain hole.
Me, too. Seemed like a pretty good spot to both of us!
Of course, I no longer do that now that I have my QuickJack.
QJ is the cats meow