How to make the walls around the engine

I have seen many photos of engine compartments that have some sort of walls that go from the floor of the engine compartment up to the "roof" of the EC . Right now my engine compartment cavity goes right up to the back of the rear "seat" and the noise transfers right into the cockpit- way too loud with the top up. Even thick soundproofing under the carpeted rear wall does not do the job.
I am certain that putting this engine compartment "paneling" on 3 sides of the engine would reduce the engine noise coming into the interior of the car through the rear wall, but where can I purchase these walls? Any ideas?
Thanks, crew, ahead of time.
LIL TUB
Mike Siddons

Just to clearify....

The primary purpose of boxing in the engine compartment is cooling. You need to ensure that the very hot air around the exhaust system cannot recirculate back into the cooling system. Of course sound deadening is another benifit.

I do not know anyone who will sell you the panels. And even if the would who knows if they would fit right anyway. There is nothing really complicated about them. You are right they are basically just flat panels cut to fit very close to the profile of the underside of the body and the engine tin. You should be sure that there is a good seal at both interfaces. At the engine tin gap use an VW Bus engine seal, it wide and will close a gap up to around 1".

Depending on how handy you are this is definatly a DIY project. As long as you take lots of measurements and make cardboard templates and are comfortable with pulling the engine.

If I was to do it again (and I probably will). I would sandwich a layer of sheet metal, dynomat type material, high temp sound deading blanket tupe material, dynomat again and then sheet metal. I think I would use spacers to be sure not to squish the blanket stuff.

Hope I helped....

Jerome

Jerome, thanks for the advice. I am surprised no one else responded to this, as I see most member photo postings with these engine walls installed.
So I make a cardboard template, then cut out sheet metal sections, and add sound deadening material to the side away from the engine, then more sheetmetal, and more sound deadening material.
How do I make sure it is fire- proof? Is it completely necessary to pull the engine?
The face of these panels I see seem to have something like trunk paint sprayed on them- am I right?
Thanks again Jerome,
Mike SIddons
LILTUB

Michael, Depending on the manufacturer of your car , you might be able to purchase the fiberglass panels and install them your self. These panels are installed after the major component of the body has been molded. Dimension wise the all the bodies are pretty much the same. Make a few phone calls.
Joe S.

..... It is diffcicult to use cardboard to make up a template, what I do is use sheets of 8x11 paper, overlaping them as they are taped to each other and trimming as necessary. I then use black gloss painted aluminum panels that are used by tractor trailer manufactures for the vertical panels on trailer boxes, purchase black rivets that have a dime sized head at a body shop supplier.
Trace the template onto the aluminum panels, cutting the panel out with a good quality set of aviation snips that have Left/Right and Straight pairs. A little silicone on the back side and a few evenly spaced rivets and the panels look great . Then make up an engine panel leaving a 5/8" space between the engine panel & body panels. Fill this space in with a foam VW bus engine seal that is make to look like a horizontal "H"

I cut a piece of AUTObody tin. I bought a 4x8 sheet for about $30.00. Cut holes for a pattern (that was a chore) and formed it in the motor area when the motor was out. Before I put it on I put alu, heat shield insolation and the tin on top screwed to the back of the engine wall. It looks cool and did cut 'a bit' the sound.

You can also purchase the stainless steel engine firewall kits for a type 1 (beetle) and use those three precut panels to modify and install in the car. It seems to me that they would already be about the right size. Trim the sizes to fit the new taper. ??? Never had to do it, but you may consider it as it would at least give you a good looking start.

Ron, That is a very cool looking engine compartment....

Save the powder coat costs and do as I discribed in the previous post, I have done this three times and looks great..total cost is approx $38 with the VW bus engine seal

I doubt the stock beetle fire wall panels would fit. I did a quick measure before I did mine and there was no way they was going to work (on an Intermeccanica). I used poster board to make my templates and then had a shop laser cut the aluminum pieces for me. I then had the pieces powder coated a black (semi gloss) color.

That depends if you like the look of the stainless steel. I'd rather showcase the shroud carbs etc., than the back panels. The powder coated panels have a 'factory' look to them, which I like. Each to their own.
Ron