How to raise the front

Does it have an adjustable beam?

I went through this BS for several years. You probably have one adjuster. That is Kirks standard install. My car has always been very low in the front end. I adjusted it upwards as much as possible and it was still too low. I decided to replace the entire front end beam, springs, tie rod ends, and ball joints. After all of that my car was still too low. It was then I discovered I had drop spindles. I bought a car that was a cancelled order and never realized nor was informed there was such as think. I have replace those with standard and never have the ride I wanted. Slightly lowered but no more hitting the ground with the sway bar or front end. 

Ignorance may be bliss, but it can be costly. 

How much do you want to lift the front?

You need to figure out how it was lowered.  If dropped spindles (usually a 2" drop) - replace with stock spindles (>$100).  If it has dual adjusters - google instructions online.  If single adjuster - its not as adjustable. If beam was cut, twisted, welded (not likely - a cheap solution recommended by CMC years ago), then replace with aftermarket dual adjustable beam (see below - about $200).  I guess it could have some of the spring leaves cut/removed - they could be replaced with full ones with stiffer ride (not likely). These are all non-major changes.

Another solution is to go with taller profile tires - if yours are 65 profile - going with 75/80 will raise car about 1".

Take picture of center of front beam and the front wheel spindles.

I had the single adjustment beam and it had no effect on the drop spindles. It is not as easy to tell the difference between drop and standard spindles as you might think. I had a couple of "experts" check it out and they missed it. 

wombat posted:

How can I raise the front on my 2015 VS without major changes to the suspension? 

Wombat - here is a pic of my 2014 VS. It has a single Adjust-A-Lift (torsion bar adjuster  for ride height) and is pretty much Kirk's standard set-up. I'm pretty sure you have the same.

Raise the car/wheels off the ground (on jack stands). Loosen the nuts (blue arrows) and adjust height with allen wrench (red arrows). As you can see, I have my ride height very low (more threads exposed on allen bolt).  To raise ride height, turn lower allen bolt clockwise (lessen exposed allen bolts).

You can go on You -Tube and find a video tutorial for more detailed instruction. Search; adjust VW adjust-a-lift.

Very simple process should take less than 30 minutes for 1st timer. Alignment should not be affected.  

I can't find anything on the interweb about  the Ajust-A-Lift. Does it go by another name?

What is the range of the adjustment at the wheels?

wombat posted:

I can't find anything on the interweb about  the Ajust-A-Lift. Does it go by another name?

What is the range of the adjustment at the wheels?

 

 

We need to know what type you have...Google VW Beam adjusters.

CB sells the beam with the Puma Lift. There is another company that rebuilds the beams and installs the adjust a lift on both beams. They require a core return. Rebuilt German vs new Brazilian. 

Wombat - I couldn't find the You Tube video I referenced ( that's weird). The ride height range (raised/lowered) is probably 1" to 1.5" (measuring through center of wheel from ground to top of fender well arc).

To raise your car (with wheels off ground);

1) Loosen the big nut on the lower allen-bolt (the one pointing down), using a proper fitting allen wrench turn the allen bolt clockwise (as you would to tighten a bolt). Turn the bolt as far as you can, tighten the nut.

2) Lower car to ground and drive car a few feet to let suspension settle. Then determine if the height is what you desire. If too high, repeat process to back out allen-bolt a few turns. Its a trial & error process to reach the height you want.

Its easier than you'd think, just takes time getting car off and on the jack stands to adjust the adjust-a-lift bolts. 

Do we even know what Wombat has? He could have dropped spindles with no adjusters installed.

See my previous post. Dropped spindles and even the experienced air cooled mechanics missed it. They are not obvious. It is only 2 inches. 

Here's picture of "dropped" spindle - in reality the spindle is raised.  Looking at picture the bearing spindle is raised above center of the two mounting brackets. Results are 2-2.5" lower - which is why some use them with an adjustable beam in case you only want 1 3/4" lowering.  Steering geometry is better with spindles than with a severely dropped adjustable beam.

majorkahuna posted:

See my previous post. Dropped spindles and even the experienced air cooled mechanics missed it. They are not obvious. It is only 2 inches. 

I thought this was wombats thread, That is who I thought was looking for help...

Noel was just relating his experience, Bill.

My VS was too low and I was always bottoming out. I also did not care for the overly raked look. I only had one adjuster and that couldn't raise it enough. 

So I purchased stock spindles for disc brakes and now it looks better and I never bottom out.

its one of the most enjoyable things that I did to my speedster, I was always driving on egg shells before.

God for you, Cole!

Nothing better than doing some work on the car and getting the results you were after....

Ditto on the dual adjustable beam.  I have an older CMC and it had the cut and twisted upper beam tube.  Horrible ride.  I think I bought a new beam from CB Performance with dual adjusters and it made a world of difference to ride and look. Best $280.00 shipped from Cali. I have ever spent......