HP Upgrade

Weber 40 idf. Yes, new manifolds, linkage, fuel regulator (or electric fuel pump w/built in regulator, 2-1/2 - 3 lbs.).

Spend the extra coin to get Spanish Webers or find rebuilt Italian ones. Generally found on the Samba.

Dellortos would also be a nice upgrade although usually a bit rarer. 40mm would be the appropriate size for that displacement.

Keep in mind that, along with bigger carbs, valve size and exhaust size come into play.

See various posts from Al, Justin and, of course, Stan the Man.

Noel!

 

Going from the single Solex cabs to the dual 40s will make that 1915 come a live a bit. You won't be pulling the 2375, but you'll be smiling.

 

Do it!

Ted

If you can find a pair of Baby Dells, they might be a little more tractable in traffic.... Just a thought...

Hey Leon,

With  a 1915, what would be wrong with the 40s if they had the right size venturis and jets?

Ted

"Keep in mind that, along with bigger carbs, valve size and exhaust size come into play."

 

To keep costs down VS seems to do just the larger bore P&C to get more displacement.  Regretfully, to get optimal performance out of 1915cc you need a hotter cam and heads with larger valves (another $1k in parts). Then header and exhaust size become limiters.  460 cc is quite a displacement difference over your engine. 

split the case - put stroker crank in it with matching rods, hairier cam and dual 44's

 

your 94's could easily make (ie: no significant case machining) a 2332cc

Think cylinder heads and valve sizes.....   VS engine was basic 1600cc engine with 94s grafted on.....   Stock cam, heads, crank, etc.

 

40s can be made to work, but Dells seem to stay in "tune" longer.....   Just thoughts...

       
       


Good info! I'm not really up to par on the bigger motors. I just assumed that a 1.9. Could handle the 40s without any hesitation. Now I know. Thanks.

Ted

Ted,

40s will work on a 1915. Webers can work on a variety of displacements. The 40idf comes stock with a 28mm venturi so it's quite a bit smaller than the stated 40mm. Obviously you won't get the most out of a set of Webers with the current configuration, and you certainly can get better performance with a hotter cam, bigger valves and longer stroke.

But the initial question asked was what size webers for a 1915 and the most popular answer would be the 40idf.

Now, if this same question was asked on the Samba some yahoo would certainly reply "48ida's, dude! I got 'em on my 1776 and they rock!"

 

Noel, as you've probably figured out by now it's a slippery slope when it comes to adding horsepower.

One thing leads to another, which leads to another..........

Noel,

I bought a used 2006 Vintage with an excellent running stock 1600 cc mexicrate engine a few years ago. Wanting more power, last winter I pulled the engine and took it to a very experienced VW engine builder in the Pocono mountains in PA. I told him what I wanted -more acceleration, smooth rpms at lower speeds and decent gas mileage. We brought the engine up to 1915cc- bigger jugs and pistons, a mild engle cam, heavy duty clutch, increased oil capacity sump, performance extractor  exhaust. He talked me out of stroking the motor and we  kept the stock heads and valves because they were in such good condition. It was an  inexpensive build but the only downside was the dual single barrel empi carbs. The engine accelerated much better, got good economy but wouldn't idle worth a damn.Wasn't getting fuel to both cylinders due to vacuum problems with the  single barrel manifolds. After advice from this forum  went to Spanish dual port Weber 40IDFs with their manifolds. I bought everything including the linkage from CB Performance in Calif. They jetted the carbs for my altitude (north NJ. It took a lot of patience  to dial them in but the car idles fine and accelerates smoothly and quickly up to 80mph. Gas mileage is OK-22-24mph if I take it easy.For now I am satisfied with the power-any more and I would probably get in trouble. I have almost 3 thousand  miles on the rebuild and its good-it didn't run hot in the summer and no oil leaks yet. Hope this helps.

Joel

 

 

 

 

Joel...

You described my situation almost perfectly. I have the external oil cooler so the added sump was not something I felt I needed. Although I live at Lake Tahoe when I go to the Carson Valley it can be way over 100F in the Summer. Likewise driving through the Sacramento Valley to S.F. is the same deal. I have never had any sign of overheating. My engine had a valve job at 10k primarily due to the sloppy manufacturing job. The valves and heads were poorly machined and the guides were a mess. It now runs perfectly. I just want to have more bottom end power. The majority of responses seem to indicate the route you took. If I get to a point where I have to have the max HP, I will just get a new engine. I have had several Porsches over the years, mostly new. No matter what you pay with depreciation or you pay building it up to what you want. 

 

I'll second what Leon said and add that not all 1915s (or any particular displacement) are created equal.  VS 1915s are built to relatively mild specs for reasonable cost.  A CB 1915 like Leon had (and like I have) may be built to much hotter specs with a more radical cam, better heads, etc.  This makes it also able to handle a larger carb.  I'm running 44IDFs and don't feel at all like the engine is over-carbed.  It's not as hot as Gordon's 2110 or Tom's 2054, but it's a lot of fun and a smooth high revver. 

Yeah, see that's something I didn't consider, but it makes total sense.

 

I'd like a motor that is just a torque monster. I really don't care much about top end, I just want a crazy amount of pull out of the hole and through the gears.

 

First, one must have a car... Step one.

 

Where in Tahoe, Noel?

I'm down the hill in the Auburn area. Used to have a place in Tahoma.

 

Hello Terry

I live at South Lake Tahoe about a driver and a nine iron from the Heavenly lifts. I am a native of Auburn, Placer High Class of 68’. I just met another owner in Reno a couple of weeks ago and he knows one other guy in Reno. Sounds like we might have enough guys for a local SOC chapter. At least we can have a few rallies or GTGs. PM me with your contact info.


"Always look on the bright side of life"

Warmest Regards,


Noel H. Farmer
Worlds Greatest Authority

I have buddies in Cool / Pilot Hill. I'm in Auburn about once a month.

 

I live about 3 hours south, south west of you guys.  Once I get a car, I'll come up and harass you guys.

 

T

Excellent, Noel.

The fourth annual "Tour d 'Hoe" will happen sometime this summer. Dates will be posted in the Events section soon. I'll "dialog" you my info.

 

Ted, let me know when you're coming up. Perhaps you'd enjoy taking Penny for a spin. Also, a friend will be brokering a Vintage speedster soon and I thought about you. A deal might be worked out...

Noel, 40 IDF Webers will run on a stock 1600 up to just over 2000 cc. Definite breathing improvement on a VS 1915. You need to jet smaller at altitude to compensate for the thinner air. My car at sea level would be pig rich at your altitude. Bang for buck wise, 40 IDF(yes even EMPI ones, they are better now) and a new exhaust will brighten your day! No, not 2300 plus cc power, but much improved from the single throats. Be prepared to tune them or have someone do it, and go small on jets, and you should be good.

Noel, expect to buy a set or 2 of main and idle jets to get it right, as they will probably come a step or so rich, even when they're set up for you. This is so you don't damage the engine running lean while you figure out exactly what it needs. What's on it for exhaust? Another power adder (if the engine doesn't already have them, and I'm assuming it has a stock cam) is 1.4 rockers; they should help throughout the powerband.

 

you mentioned you've not put a sump on it as you have an additional cooler; note they do different things. The sump is to keep oil at the pick-up during cornering. The pick-up will draw air occasionally during spirited driving in a stock beetle, as it only holds enough oil for the intended rpm range and driving style (remember, this engine came from the original economy car); running the bearings dry (even momentarily) isn't a good thing, and a deep sump keeps the pick-up submerged. In a corner the g-forces can prevent the oil collecting in the head to return to the sump area and at a little higher rpm it takes a little longer for the oil (after going through the bearings) to drain back to the sump as well.  

 

The extra oil cooler, on the other hand, handles extra heat generated by the engine when you're "pushing it", but the oil in the cooler isn't available to the pick-up during cornering. It'll all depend on how you drive it. Al

 

PS- And (as everyone has said) the 40's are big enough; they'll take a 2276 to 6,000rpm with power. This is where bigger venturis come into play...

Danny is right on - >$800 bucks with no removing engine, cracking the case, or machining anything! I'd add 1.25 or 1.4 ratio rockers to compensate for stock cam.  Them maybe add CD spark system and Pertronix solid state point replacement.  All for under $1k and an easy weekend install.

Noel- Adding 1.4 rockers will add 8-10' effective duration (or dur @ .050") and about .060" valve lift, which the carbs and exhaust will respond really well to. They will also extend the rpm range about 500rpm, and with the increased power, make your engine all that much more fun. 1.25 rockers (in this case) wouldn't change things enough; you probably wouldn't feel the difference, so they'd be a waste of money. Stay away from chromoly pushrods; Aircooled.net has them in aluminum

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/A...of-8-p/acnhdalpr.htm 

They are lighter (and quieter) and will be easier on your valve springs.

 

http://kaddieshack.com/1600dynoresults.html

This link has 3 dyno results of a stock 1600; totally stock, the addition of dual carbs (kadrons) and 1 3/8" header and then 1.4 rockers. Look at the torque graphs; the 1.4's add power throughout the rpm range. Although you're moving up to Webers, the increase will be similar.