Drove the hell out of my car this past weekend on the Tail of the Dragon, backed it out of the shop today and the suspension collapsed broke a ball joint . My question ,is that a stock upper ball joint in the photo or not
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Drove the hell out of my car this past weekend on the Tail of the Dragon, backed it out of the shop today and the suspension collapsed broke a ball joint . My question ,is that a stock upper ball joint in the photo or not
WOW PETE
GOOD THING NOW RATHER THAN LAST WEEKEND
GOOD THING NOW RATHER THAN LAST WEEKEND
Seems new ones don't come with grease fitting but you can drill and tap to add them if you want to. Just grease the drill and tap to capture any metal drillings.
Wow! you are a Lucky Dog. Your car should be wearing my license plate
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wolfgang - are you sure about that?
I've never seen a balljoint with a zerk on it. you grease them under the boot. zerks are for the beam itself, not the joint.
that joint looks bone dry too. if i were you, i'd pick up a set of 4 boots from CIP (~$30), and grease the crap out of them. I have pictures of this on my site. you will probably be able to feel the difference too. maybe even quieter.
careful with the boots too - they tear really easily when installing the spindles (if you are doing it as a one man job).
I've never seen a balljoint with a zerk on it. you grease them under the boot. zerks are for the beam itself, not the joint.
that joint looks bone dry too. if i were you, i'd pick up a set of 4 boots from CIP (~$30), and grease the crap out of them. I have pictures of this on my site. you will probably be able to feel the difference too. maybe even quieter.
careful with the boots too - they tear really easily when installing the spindles (if you are doing it as a one man job).
Yes can add - most have indent where it goes. There was a great article on doing it in recent Hemming's Exotic and Sports Car magazine. Yeah you can use a needle grease filler but you want fresh grease around the ball and its seat. Good quality ones usually are already drilled/threaded and have a plastic removeable plug.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-0-4813.html
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-0-4813.html
WOW! Lucky Pete.
I think I'll go inspect and lube mine this very AM.
I think I'll go inspect and lube mine this very AM.
Holy crap, Pete! I'd hate to see your whole car up on the Tree of Shame.
Mango - My F-250 pick-em-up recently had both lower ball joints replaced. The old ones were permanently sealed as you described. The after market ones had zerks in them (or you can buy non-zerk OEM units). So I figure these are good for life. Only thing to remember is to jack up the weight so you can grease them in the unloaded condition.
The wife's PT Cruiser also has zerk's on the bottom of the front knuckle. That is a strut type front suspension, so I am just assuming that there is a ball joint on the bottom of the strut?
The wife's PT Cruiser also has zerk's on the bottom of the front knuckle. That is a strut type front suspension, so I am just assuming that there is a ball joint on the bottom of the strut?
Speaking of ball joints, I noticed that my new ball joints (I did an exchange-old arms and ball joints for old arms with new ball joints) don't have cotter pin holes in them.
They probably expect you to use a lock nut.
Ron, use Nylocks, and replace them every time you loosen them. You can use a regular one on the upper(the one with the eccentric) until you get it set correctly.
FWIW, in order to pass your "road-worthiness inspection" in Illinois, you need castlated nuts and a pin.
Your mileage may vary.
Your mileage may vary.
They came with Nylocks, but I'd rather have castlated nuts and pins.