I am defeated

Thanks Terry, didn't know that!

Gordon, I like that, I don't think Kelly ever took his manifolds off. Kelly, try to rock the manifolds, if they move at all, your manifold to head gaskets are shot.......

Doug, PM me your email, I'll send it to you no problem. It is posted on Spyderclub.com forum under Tips and Tricks though. Here:

http://www.spyderclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=14341

When my 1600 with the old school single solex did this it wound up being caused by the fuel pump going nuts,took forever to find it. Put a gauge on line and the pressure was all,over the place 20 bucks at autozone and fixed. Hours and hours to locate the problem.

Had swapped all the ognition parts, sometimes it ran great then it would just crap out.

I'm on pins and needles waiting for the diagnostic solution to this vexing problem.

Then I'll print this entire thread and always keep it handy!

Thanks for the link Danny

OK guys, I'm copying all, and will do, but have been away some this week and more travel next week is going to keep me from this for a few days more. Bummer.  Good cruising weather is upon us.  Damn.

BTW: electronic fuel pump is very steady at 3- 3.5 psi.  Part of the refurb this time out was to install a pressure gage, and this is what is says.

And Gordon, I am surprised you have not suggested a can of Sea Foam -- your standard fix for all ailments.  I believe I'll try that too.

And what is the "ignition module" and how does it get loose? Have pictures??

Kelly, just pull the cap and rotor and be sure that the screw that secures the little rectangular module that sits where the points were is tight. These screws have been known to work loose and wreak havoc with timing.

If you have Pertronics Ignitor I have experienced the little rivet that holds the module in place come loose (just a hair) hence, that alters the air gap...tough to see unless you actually check for movement.  ~Alan

Travelin' Kelly:

None of the symptoms you indicated will be cured with "Sea Foam".

I'm still wondering about a manifold leak, but I attended a seminar this weekend on "Ignitions 101" and am beginning to think it might very well be either a loose/corroded electronic (Pertronics?) module or a related ignition issue.

I think ignition is certainly worthy of a thorough go-through. That should be done as well as checking those pesky manifold gaskets. As long as fuel is clean and at the right pressure, engine totally sound(compression check?), and valves adjusted, what else is there other than carbs? Float levels verified with a ruler? I think a good synch is what Kelly needs though, as long as ignition is up to snuff.

 I RUN THE PERTRONICS  3 OHM  FLAME THROWER COIL AND IGNITER MODULE with their wire set.. A matched setup   If you had a points dizzy.. I swear you had a bad condenser . the popping and cracking is a classic  key on too long scenario with bad burnt points to boot.. As I understand it when a module dies it just ( Dies )   Car won't even start..   But a Coil if Not 3 ohm Might cause this problem.

Most "Carburetor" issues are really ignition issues.

I heard that somewhere before. 

sorta back in the barn now, and w/ all this incessant wet weather, house bound.  So it will be back into the garage this week for further diagnosis. Data report to follow.

I would not mind having one of those crankshaft timing do-dads like Danny has.  Pretty cool business there, and programmable timing curve, right?  How much dinero for that puppy??

I'm having an EDIS crank fired ignition kit installed next week.  I bought the kit a couple of years ago, from Boost Engineering.

I paid $400 for a complete kit, but the parts can be purchased individually for less.  For me, it was easier to buy the complete kit.

CB also has a crank fired ignition kit.  http://www.cbperformance.com/P...asp?ProductCode=2094

I read two pages of replies for this tread. I hoped to find a solution to this problem. I was really rooting for Frank. 

Still no solution?

Ted

Good one Larry. Probably not a bad idea to use a little something on te parts to prevent any further corrosion:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=no-ox%20grease&clk_rvr_id=555107238053&adpos=1t1&MT_ID=69&crlp=12094490202_2416792&device=c&geo_id=10232&keyword=no-ox+grease&crdt=0

Well, what can I say in my defense?  How about Happy New Year!!!  I am, regrettably, still defeated.  Have not had time/energy to devote a few days of crawling around the wires and such to see what I can see.  So it sits . . .

Perhaps the down-time from all the outdoor stuff and holidays, and stuff will let me push on this rope a bit more, so all can be resolved by spring, Carlisle, and like that.  Right now, I think my oil is frozen -- low tem this AM at 4.8 F.

I have no new news to report.  The car has sat in garage for a while now, while life in other areas has pushed on.  I'll need to crank up the heater in there and start on some of these good diagnostic suggestions.  Gonna be all about the ignition first.

Happy New Year!

Here is what I am going to offer. How about you sell me the car and I just take on your problem. Yes. That's right. I will pay you to take on this problem.

I know, mighty kind of me. It's just the kind of guy I am. I was raised right I suppose.  

Good luck with it,
Ted

Terry N---I am ordering  a JPS subie powered  SWB speedster  to replace my wrecked VS. anything you can tell me about your dealings with John and any issues with your car would be appreciated--thanks, JF

Jerry:

You might want to email Kelly Frazer, too.  His car was built by John Steele.

Raising this topic from the dead... What was the problem here and how did you fix it?