I got a old CMC kit QUESTION!!!

I got a old CMC I think!! This body been sitting for years non touch outside in a backyard in CT.all kind of weather rain and snow. Doors been inside in a basemen. I bought the car cheap with all part to put it together. Question is Can some changes happen to the body because been outside. Will the doors fit now.

Thanks
Raul

There may be minor fitment issues but nothing that can't be aligned with a couple of washers or shim stock behind the hinge bolts...

And the good news is that it's had that long for the fiberglass to out-gas so any bubbles under the gel coat should be easily seen and no new ones will grow.

Good luck on the build and keep us aboard as you go along - we'll help whenever we can!

Gordon
The Speedstah Guy from Beaufort

That's what I was thinking....that tub should be well "seasoned"!

~WB

My CMC came with the preassembly option --- the doors were mounted. They did just a fair job. I suspect you'll have hours of fun getting them squared up. Good winter project (or two or three).

Oh..Thanks guys I will keep pictures coming from the built. I will get the chassis back today. I'm going to separate the body from the frame also so I can send the frame to sandblast and repaint.

I will keep in touch.
Thanks
Raul

Are you saying your going to seperate the subframe? You may want to reconsider that. If its just got some surface rust you can treat that rust and spray it when you paint the body. I would imagine that subframe keeps things nice and square. You may not be gaining much by removing it.

Some rivets are gone. So is better to put new rivets and don't remove the body?

If you are talking about removing the subframe (and not the VW chassis/pan) then I would say no, do not remove it. Replace the rivets (make sure you adjust the door gaps with the rear panels), remove any loose scale, and treat any exposed metal. You can use a rust converter spray, then paint. Or you can use something like POR15. I just don't see any upside in removing the subframe.

Mine was sitting outside for a long time, and it had some surface rust, but nothing else. The subframe was pretty thick.

Thanks for the info. I know I will need more on this project and i know I'm in the right place.

Thanks to all.
Raul

Raul:

Do a search on here about body height, or something like that.

One thread deals with how to set your rear suspension height (ignore that one for now) but another talks a lot about getting the body to sit correctly on the sub-frame so that it's level all around. this includes removing some or all of the rivets along the rear frame (along the engine bay), jacking the body only up or down to get the door gaps lined up and everything level, and then using bolts and stop nuts to hold everything in place. We do one side at a time, and use a 4"X 4" beam under the rear corner of the body to jack it up and keep it level. It's an easy job, just time consuming.

Let me know if you can't find it and I'll search for it, too.

Gordon

(edit update) I poked around with a search on "door gap" and got some good info. Not the detailed one I was looking for, but a good start....

No I don't know nothing about it. Can you please tell me under what I do the search.. Because my chassis is back. Do I still have to install the rubber that goes between the chassis and the sub frame like VWs chassis and body. Oh. man thanks for everything.

I find some good stuff. I'm starting this weekend installing the frond end and a 67 tranny and the wheels.
Thanks

I just find all the original paperwork of this kit is a Fiber-Fab sold to this guy on January 10 1990. Have a CMC assembly manual. That means this car is been seating for 18 years. With all the parts to put it together. I think that is sick. I pay 3,500 for it. I'm all excited I can wait to start.

SEARCH FUNCTION:

Go up to the main forum screen, where you can see all the different tpics listed; General Non technical, Technical, Anything Goes, etc.

Look toward the bottom of the page and find the "Search" button. Click there to go to the Search function, then enter what you want to find, select which forum you think it might be in (or leave it alone to search all forums) and then hit "GO".

Once it returns, scroll down through all of the stuff listed and start reading.

gn

Raul:

Where do you live?

gn

I also have an old CMC that sat with all of the parts,just waiting on someone bolting it together......Thats what I'm doing now :)

I live in Connecticut..I have couple of VWs a 63 ragtop, 69 convertible completely mild custom restore and a 65 ghia convertible runs and fair conditions. I maybe sell the ghia for more room.

Try wet sanding it with 1000 or finer WD sand paper before deciding to paint it --- you may be surprised at how well the gel coat turns out. I bought my CMC in Sep 89 and it has been sitting in my garage since then -- I'll race you to finishing your's before Carlisle in May. I'm soon going to enlist the EastCoast SO gang (DC area) in assisting me in getting it finished once holidays are over. Wish I only had $3500 invested though - base kit was $7k.

Thanks I will do it..

I also had an older black CMC that had dead gelcoat, wet sanding with 1000, 1200 and a final 1500 soap and water followed with a light buffing, it looked like a show finish. This will work providing that the gelcoat doesn't have deep stains, chips or cracking.

Raul...

Dont be afraid to even up the cracks with a little Figerglass jelly ... 1/8 inch cracks will be way to tight,, but 1/4 crack are much less likely to chip the finished paint work.. 1/4 is OK but a little more than they are suppose to be use your hood cracks as a guide. and work it out to YOUR liking. I have noticed that I have a door crack that pops at the front just a little in real cold weather.

The car body will change with extreme temps. Cheatng the cracks a little would not be a bad idea. Even if you releave the hood and engine lid just a little to match them all up as close as you can..

But YOUR artistic eye has to be happy with the cab cracks as well. because you will always be critical of your own work..

At least I am. If the gel coat will live try it. (but that long) Id expect you gonna have to paint her..

Was chatting with a guy at Cory's wedding who has had a string of corvettes over the years, and was lamenting how much the body would change with the seasons (on all of them, but especially during the 70's and 80's). Panel gaps would grow and shrink, things would croak and groan and scrape and squeek.

He asked if fiberglass Speedster replicas were anything like that.

I just smiled......

Nice to hear we're not alone....

I'm new on all this fiberglass and kit cars world. All this info is good to know. I'm just starting getting the rolling chassis together this weekend. I will post some pics for opinions. You guys should make like a video on CD to how to assemble this toys together. I will buy it.