I kissed 240 degrees good-bye!

The first one here is the old cooler, meant for a Bus, that fits into Jake's shroud. I left it alone. The second shot is the new cooler's output, right under the tins and above the oil filter. The filter's lowest point is still higher than the lowest point of the header.
The third is the perch for the new cooler, the cooler itself and the Bugpack breather box that puked its guts out after Carlisle.

I bought an oil cooler, finally. For less than $230, my heat problem appears to be solved.
Trista and I went to visit with Mickey, Brian and Greg last week, and I had significant heat problems from my lack of a decent cooler, so this weekend, I bit the bullet and bought the biggest Bugpack cooler I could lay my hands on.
It's not pretty, and it doesn't have any AN fittings on it yet, but it really works.
I drove in to work this morning at a steady 4,200 rpms for a half-hour (do the math ...), hitting the brakes one time for a U-turn, and it never got above 210.
Here's the quick-and-dirty; There's a sandwich plate above the screw-in filter, two brass fittings on the in and out, braided stainless number eight (half-inch ID) hose leading forward on the driver's side, a thermostatic cutoff in line with the sending side and the cooler is mounted to the chassis behind the driver's seat by a couple pieces of band aluminum. None of the fittings came with the cooler, but Peek had every single component I needed and I was in and out in less than five minutes.
Brian, I can't thank you enough for the line. I'm sending the rest to Angela in exchange for some coil-overs ... I love comshaw!
These three pictures are the routing of the oil lines to the new cooler.
The cutoff is wired independently and has its own fuse. It grows right off the battery and will continue running until the cooler and the lines are below 180 degrees. It seems to run for an average of five minutes after I shut off the rest of the car and take the key out.

Wow!

Really nice, clean installation! That sandwich plate above the spin-on filter is really trick, too.

I have similar mount fr my cooler on the inside rear fender wall - has about 1" of air spacing between the fins and the panel, and it works spiffy.

But......will this new set-up help prevent Lane from bogging the heck out of it in second (and then first) when doing a "hill climb" at Carlisle??

gn

Cory-

Nice set-up. I've got a Type 1, but I'm also running the Mocal sandwich plate thermostat, and 96 plate EMPI with a thermostatically controlled fan. I run a Type IV cooler in a DTM shroud on the engine. Out here, in the summer (95+ for a month or so straight last year) it works great, except for the vapor lock when I shut it off (I'm working on that).

My 1776 in the JPS with a 36HP doghouse shroud and a Monza exhaust got hot enough to fry an egg (or some piston rings).

Cool= good. Your set-up looks great!

Good deal bro! Remember though, as I've read it that you should check other things on your engine to make sure timing, jetting, tins, cold air intake, state of tune, etc. are right on because by cooling the oil you're just curing the symptoms; you should make sure your oil doesn't overheat in the fisrt place.

Are you sure you won't boil your brake fluid with your oil line attached to it?

It's the only way to go with a built engine.... I've got the same rig sitting above my transaxle at the fire wall and can't hear it when the motor's running. So far, I've only gotten to about 190* even when I stomp on it hard on a 90* day.

DOT brake fluid boils at over 400 degrees, unless it is contaminated with water at which case that number drops substantially to around 300. Just FYI - not terribly relevant factoid.

By the Cory my speedstah brutha, those items we discussed yesterday are found, packed and will be sent tomorrow. Also found you a tube of dielectic silicone, enclosed in the package. Hey you know what, one of my buddies buys it in a SQUIRT bottle!

angela

Angela, the reciprocal gesture will be posted Thursday in the morning. Brilliant!
Thanks for the compliments on the workmanship, e'rebody. There is one thing, though ...
There was this lone, small drop of oil on the bay floor when I moved the car. About the size of a ... well, of a pencil eraser.
I'm going to post a picture ...

This may keep me up all night, wondering where it came from.

Cory,
Those huge cat iron cylinders are creating these issues- no doubt..

The Setrab coolers are expensive, but super effective. A setrab cooler 1/2 the size of the cooler you have will do a better job of oil temperature control..

Also, your engine is large, the size of the breather box that you use also needs to be large. The bugpack or comparable units do not have the volume needed for a large bored engine, most of the time they are ineffective for even a big bore TI. These units typically act as nothing more than a "crankcase extension" and as soon as their volume is filled they are worthless.

Slowly but surely, I'm learning from mistakes. By the time I'm done, this car will be something to write home about.
Thanks for the knowledge, Jake!

Thanks Jake! You just answered a question I have been pondering for a long time - the breather size volume. I just never got around to thinking coherently about it long enough to realize the problem. Love this forum!

Hey Jake, while you're here-I have a question for you(or anyone who knows), I don't want to hijack your thread but I think it applies.
Breather box? vent box? air/oil separator? catch can? When looking at all the different ways people plumb in these box's most seem worthless. As I understand you are trying to supply
added air volume to the case for excessive blow by. The oil should separate/settle and the gravity drip back to the case.(I see quite a few box's installed without the return at the lowest point leaving oil in the system). Also some systems are "vented" to ambient while others
have a vacuum line back to intake(or exhaust). Again most of the vacuum lines are connected
to the top cover of a weber carb with an exposed filter element 360 degrees- this won't provide any vacuum.


Just wondering. ---Bruce

P.S.--nice work Cory!

bruce - 99% of breather problems are due to too cold oil temperatures. Running no thermostat/flaps setup will cause a over cool issue. In my 1600 (74 beetle) i battled what i thought was excessive blow-by, yada yada, until i rebuilt the motor just in the past month (as well as the transmission, which was the main reason for doing the motor, i figured, well it's gotta come out anyhow!!). Let me tell you the cylinders were prestine, heads were fine, and the motor had 135psi of compression on all 4 cyl (almost to a "T"). So i hunted down a set of flaps, and thermostats (stock), put the engine together with new P/C and heads (they're cheap so what the hay right?) and i have driven the crap out of the car for the last 2 weeks (almost 800mi) and guess what??? NO MORE OIL/BREATHER ISSUES AT ALL!!!, even the pulley leak stopped!!! (same pulley, same case, infact i did'nt split the case). But that's just my 2 cents.

martin