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I took the wheels off my new to me speedster this weekend.  The wheels needed to be cleaned and I wanted to take a look at the disc brakes. Surpise, surpise, it looks like I need to replace my rear rotors.  I guess these rotors have been modified from an original VW 4 bolt to a 5 x 4.5" pattern.

 

I am looking for recommendation on a shop that can offer replacement rotors. I am not sure I need all the cross drilled holes.  They appear to be a weak point when it comes to stress.

 

Any and all help is appreciated..Bill

 

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  • Crack in Rotor
  • Rear Rotor 5 x 4.5
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I don't think anyone on here would recognize a 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern.

 

If they're 5 X 130mm, then they're a Porsche pattern.  If they're something else, the I'm lost (which definitely won't be a first!)

 

Once you figure out what the bolt pattern really is and what the rotors are (Porsche, Karmann Ghia, Varga or TRW), then you can probably get a pair of undrilled rotors from CB, Bug City or CIP1, etc., no big deal.  

 

Whatever you get, unless you're running over 200 hp and racing that puppy, you won't need cross-drilled rotors on the rear, for sure.  Just get plain, vanilla rotors.

The person who drilled those rotors should have his a$$ kicked from here to Sunday!

Just plain stupid.

The only reason to buy drilled rotors is for the 'bling' factor. 

All the cars I've tracked over the last decade have had solid rotors, and most of the guys I know at the track also run with solid rotors.

Why? 

The benefits from drilled rotors are minimal, at best, and are prone to cracking if they get hot enough.  They're also more expensive than solid rotors and that's very important when you're changing your rotors a couple of times each year.

 

Bill, can you post a photo of your wheels?  Sometimes we can tell the bolt pattern by the type/style of wheel.

 

Last edited by Ron O

Plus, you never, never, ever drill the holes in a straight line, as he did, because that totally weakens the rotor and it breaks (which you found out already, huh?)

 

Just google "drilled brake rotors" and hit "images" and look at the hits - most are drilled in a spiral pattern to maximize the rotor strength.

 

I totally agree with Ron, though......You'll never need cross-drilled rotors on the back of that car.

Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols - Massachusetts 1993 CMC:

Plus, you never, never, ever drill the holes in a straight line, as he did, because that totally weakens the rotor and it breaks (which you found out already, huh?)

 

Just google "drilled brake rotors" and hit "images" and look at the hits - most are drilled in a spiral pattern to maximize the rotor strength.

 

I totally agree with Ron, though......You'll never need cross-drilled rotors on the back of that car.

Here is a picture of the wheel. Not my first choice, but they came on my car. After reading your comments and searching the web, I think the car has standard VW rotors for independent suspension, they were modified for 5 x 4.5" wheels, and cross drilled.  The center cap is 3.5" and 4.5" tall. I think I can buy a VW rotor and then find a place to modify the lugs.

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  • P1010330 (600x450)
Originally Posted by crhemi (Bill):

"

Or, pick the rims you like and be done with it...Now would be a good! Are the fronts drilled?

Again, The DR Clock knows exactly what they are. Chevy pattern/Riddler wheels if I recall. Sell em for cheap and get what you like. 

"The Madness" ain't cheap!

Bill, I hear you. Ideally this would be a great time to switch wheels, but money is tight and the misses is watching my hobby closely.  I will have to wait until next summer for wheels. I do love the Madness.

Originally Posted by TRP:

5 x 4.5 = Chevrolet, no?


Ted

No, 5x4.5 is commonly known as a 4 1/2" 'Ford' pattern for passenger cars and some light trucks. Chevrolet/GM uses a 5x4 3/4"(4.75)pattern for passenger cars and some light trucks, commonly known as a 'Chevy' pattern. This is old school lug sizing though...

 

Today many imports also use either pattern on newer cars/trucks and aftermarket wheel dealers have gone to the metric sizing system totally.

 

 

 

 

Bill S said - I think I can buy a VW rotor and then find a place to modify the lugs.

 

Those are not (true) VW rear rotors.  I suspect they are Porsche 914 (some will argue that the 914 is a VW) rear rotors.  Behind the visible rotor is a drum parking brake for the parking/emergency brake.  I'd call Kustom 1 and get price for their 914 based system and replacement rotors either drilled as need or blank. NO sense going with 4 lug ones and then drilling as that weakens the rotor some.

 

Looks like CB Performance carries the replacement rotoors  too -

 

http://www.cbperformance.com/S...p;show=15&page=2

 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Oh my! Whoever above said not in a straight line is 150% correct. NEVER!

 

Drilled rotors are not for everybody. They make more noise, crack easier, and wear pads a LOT. But if you are running solid rotors and don't EVER want fade, and drive really hard, like me, you'll want them. Front and rear. Replacement rotors for mine are $75 each. Not a big deal, as long as he's in business. Supposedly lifetime warranty to the original purchaser.

One other caution I'd recommend when running drilled rotors do not ever believe anyone and get talked into buying 'racing pads' to go with the drilled rotors for a street car.

You will never get the pads hot enough on the street to make them perform right and it will come as a real shocker when you try to brake down and find you are practically standing on the pedal to get the brakes to engage.

 

Racing pads are just that...for racing Only. You really notice the benefits of racing pads over street pads only on the track. Watch the beginning of any race as the cars start the 'parade lap' and you'll see the drivers weaving all over the place and brake lights are on--the drivers are warming up the tires with the weaving and riding the brakes to heat up the pads before the start flag.

I had semi race pads on my track Miata and had to take some extra precautions when I drove (seldom) the car on the road.

I live up the side of a mountain, so I was able to heat the pads up fairly quickly on the way down.  If I didn't the first stop was a bit of a shocker.

If I planned on driving the car on the road for any length of time I switched back to my 'stock' pads and matching rotors.

The car also had DOT track tires, which stuck like glue in warmer temperatures, but were terrible in the cold. 

Last edited by Ron O

WHOA!

+1 on those rotors - they absolutely shouldn't have been home-drilled like that!!! 

And if going the at-home-drill-press-route...at LEAST offset the holes (like.....EVERY....professionally-made cross-drilled rotor out there, which they're trying to copy in the first place....).

 

Given this example of the work performed, I might suggest going over the rest of the car with a finer-toothed comb than before...

 

Professionally-drilled rotors have their holes countersunk also, so that the edges of the pads don't get caught and chipped under braking...

I like cross-drilled rotors myself, largely for the look, but also because I do notice a difference in performance with them.  I find I experience less brake-fade with cross-drilled rotors.

Easily could be due to my driving style, though.

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