How about this combo?
1914 T.K COMBO with Prostreet Plus trans - 4750.00 OUTRIGHT
The best deal on a street engine and trans combo with no worries, Chico Performance is now offering a Killer Combo Deal for TheSamba folks.
WE BUILD ENGINES NOT MOTORS
Trust in the one who has supplied many HAPPY SAMBA Folks!!
Leave those wanna be's in the dust.Chico Performance offers only the highest quality engines on the market today. That will be worry free for years.
1914 Turnkey Package Killer combo with Prostreet plus trans
1. C.W Crankshaft forged DPR 8 dowell
2. New Case AS41 Open to 94mm taped for full flow.
3. German rebuilt connecting rods New bushing
4. Engle 110 or 120 Camshaft with Norris racing Lifters.
5. Aluminum stock cam gear
6. German forged reground flywheel 8 dowell.
7. Gene Berg Chromoly racing Gland nut (torque to 550lbs)
8. 8mm chromoly head studs (made for Chico performance only)
9. 94mm Mahale pistons/cylinders with Grant rings.
10. NEW 041 heads with 40 x 35.5 stainless steel valves Dual high rev springs with mini D.PORTS
12. Scat 1.25 ratio rockers
13. Stainless steel windage push rod tubes.
14. Bolt on aluminum valve covers.
15. Perfect fit Chrome sheet metal or black (Power coating ADD 150.00)
16. 30mm H.D oil pump modifed for full flow with oil filter base and oil filter
17. New Dual 40mm Weber kit.
18. New Alternator,or Generator (your choice)
19. Bosch 009 dist with compu-fire ignition.
20. Kennedy Stage 1 Pressure plate with Dankin Racing disk.
21. Ceramic coated 1 5/8 merged header with C.C phat boy muffler
22. Dynamically Balancing Crank,Rods,Pistons,Flywheel,Pressure plate,Front pulley,
23. Full dyno day with break in and tunning and dyno sheet 130-140BHP
24. 8.5 to 1 compression unless you need more.
25. Rancho Performance Prostreet Plus trans with 4.12 R/P and welded 3rd and 4th hubs with steel shift forks,harden keys, super diff and aluminum side cover with .082 fourth (swing or I.R.S)
1914 turnkey package 4750.00 Outright
NOTE: Go with the 3.88, right?
Option 2,344 (yes, it seems there are at least that many options).
Roland works for Kirk and apparently has a strong 1915cc engine that has all the goodies (will get a build list) and Kirk is willing to put in a cooling system to keep it drive-able.
Kirk is mostly concerned with heat...so you have to respect him for that. I want the motor to stay together but also to be able to get off the line respectably (not smoking the tires guys...just to be the lead car at the next light without trying to hard).
He is going to call me back and let me know. IF I can him to build a better mouse-trap with better components it will fit the air, come from the factory set up, and the air will work. I am going to push them because this is important (pss....I learned that here...lol).
So, tell me about the cooling systems.
Roland works for Kirk and apparently has a strong 1915cc engine that has all the goodies (will get a build list) and Kirk is willing to put in a cooling system to keep it drive-able.
Kirk is mostly concerned with heat...so you have to respect him for that. I want the motor to stay together but also to be able to get off the line respectably (not smoking the tires guys...just to be the lead car at the next light without trying to hard).
He is going to call me back and let me know. IF I can him to build a better mouse-trap with better components it will fit the air, come from the factory set up, and the air will work. I am going to push them because this is important (pss....I learned that here...lol).
So, tell me about the cooling systems.
Others will comment, I'm sure. Yes, if it were me, I would go with the 3:88 R&P combo. Also, I would go with the stock valve covers with attached wire bales rather than the bolt ons. I think they seal better and will be less likely to leak oil and no, they're not as pretty.
ps. much info is available on the knowledge base on cooling, written by the late George Brown, a most respected member of this forum
ps. much info is available on the knowledge base on cooling, written by the late George Brown, a most respected member of this forum
John,
I couldn't have said it better myself, you wouldn't happen to have a set of WWW in your garage, would you?
....from one who likes to "take shots"
I couldn't have said it better myself, you wouldn't happen to have a set of WWW in your garage, would you?
....from one who likes to "take shots"
jim,
i apologize for my smart-a$$ remark earlier about my ramcharger, it was just set up perfectly.
anyhow, i don't have nearly as much "gear" knowlege as a number of these guys, but i'll address some of the points that have been swept under the carpet.
as far as service from kirk on the left coast, obviously he's not going to send someone to your garage to fix the car and i'm pretty sure he's not going to reimburse you for any labor, but he has been more than accomidating to me by immediately sending me replacement parts, very few questions asked. to be honest with you, nothing really major happened in my first year of ownership; a jumpy tach, a bowed rear-view mirror, and some minor engine/ suspension tuning. (TC is the most helpful in these departments) even if i lived in the socal area, i would have wanted to do this stuff myself just to learn more about the car. in any event, he sent me whatever parts i needed, gave me perfect verbal instructions, and asked me to send the damage back. i feel that is more than reasonible, considering the distance involved.
another point that i'm really pondering is why you are even involving this guy in arizona. it seems like he's out of the picture at this point, why are you employing him as a middle man. i chose to buy my car from a dealer (in socal) because they HAD a car on the lot for a few months and i saved alot of money on the deal. the car wasn't set up exaclty how i would have wanted it, but my savings will allow me to make these changes, should i choose, without getting real deep into a build from the get go. judging from the amount of time you have logged on the phone with kirk, i would just have him deliver the car directly to you. afterall, YOU will be paying the delivery fee from socal to arizona...
george
i apologize for my smart-a$$ remark earlier about my ramcharger, it was just set up perfectly.
anyhow, i don't have nearly as much "gear" knowlege as a number of these guys, but i'll address some of the points that have been swept under the carpet.
as far as service from kirk on the left coast, obviously he's not going to send someone to your garage to fix the car and i'm pretty sure he's not going to reimburse you for any labor, but he has been more than accomidating to me by immediately sending me replacement parts, very few questions asked. to be honest with you, nothing really major happened in my first year of ownership; a jumpy tach, a bowed rear-view mirror, and some minor engine/ suspension tuning. (TC is the most helpful in these departments) even if i lived in the socal area, i would have wanted to do this stuff myself just to learn more about the car. in any event, he sent me whatever parts i needed, gave me perfect verbal instructions, and asked me to send the damage back. i feel that is more than reasonible, considering the distance involved.
another point that i'm really pondering is why you are even involving this guy in arizona. it seems like he's out of the picture at this point, why are you employing him as a middle man. i chose to buy my car from a dealer (in socal) because they HAD a car on the lot for a few months and i saved alot of money on the deal. the car wasn't set up exaclty how i would have wanted it, but my savings will allow me to make these changes, should i choose, without getting real deep into a build from the get go. judging from the amount of time you have logged on the phone with kirk, i would just have him deliver the car directly to you. afterall, YOU will be paying the delivery fee from socal to arizona...
george
John - Many of us old timers were the same enthusiastic newbies you noted!
"Some of the old-timers here have seen Newbie after Newbie jump into this hobby with wild enthusiasm, only to to have their judgement clouded by excitment."
I bit the "Special price and options only if you order today" from CMC many years ago and fully believed their 40 hour build time projection --- only to have lost steam as the gray hairs developed.
"Some of the old-timers here have seen Newbie after Newbie jump into this hobby with wild enthusiasm, only to to have their judgement clouded by excitment."
I bit the "Special price and options only if you order today" from CMC many years ago and fully believed their 40 hour build time projection --- only to have lost steam as the gray hairs developed.
"I flew from Atlanta to Phoenix today to look at a speedster and ended up ordering an '05 VS Widebody.
This is from the AZ guys and I found them to be very nice guys and wanted to help....and moved a car around in their production to get mine done in 4 weeks."
Jim - when you start off your first post like that, it's not surprising that some people on this forum are going to think you didn't do your homework. None of the criticism you've read here is personal - and if it seemed like it was, please reconsider.
There has been so much written on this site about what to buy and from whom that even a couple of hours reading through old posts would have put you way ahead of where you are now.
Some of the old-timers here have seen Newbie after Newbie jump into this hobby with wild enthusiasm, only to to have their judgement clouded by excitement.
You've made your purchase decision. Enjoy it. And remember to take any and all advice you get here or elsewhere - with "a grain of salt." While the world is seldom short of opinions, they're not all what they're cracked up to be. And this place is no exception.
Good luck with your purchase...and I mean that sincerely.
This is from the AZ guys and I found them to be very nice guys and wanted to help....and moved a car around in their production to get mine done in 4 weeks."
Jim - when you start off your first post like that, it's not surprising that some people on this forum are going to think you didn't do your homework. None of the criticism you've read here is personal - and if it seemed like it was, please reconsider.
There has been so much written on this site about what to buy and from whom that even a couple of hours reading through old posts would have put you way ahead of where you are now.
Some of the old-timers here have seen Newbie after Newbie jump into this hobby with wild enthusiasm, only to to have their judgement clouded by excitement.
You've made your purchase decision. Enjoy it. And remember to take any and all advice you get here or elsewhere - with "a grain of salt." While the world is seldom short of opinions, they're not all what they're cracked up to be. And this place is no exception.
Good luck with your purchase...and I mean that sincerely.
Hey guys... I have a 2005 VS and I could'nt be more pleased; the reason I bought it was "because" of the VW powerplant... I personally would'nt have a Subaru engine in a lawnmower! the only people up here that have Subarus are socialists of some sort and have that natural socialist fear of everything.
Kirk did a great job on my car, yea the paint is not as I would have liked it, but he did get me a car to Alaska in less than four weeks, and has thrown in quite a few options at no charge. I even got my rear disc kit from him, I had it installed up here, for $300 less than I found it anywhere else... the car has 700 mi on it, has gone 90mph (I'm breaking it in) and handles very well, a few paint sags are no problem to me.... I live 2.5 mi up a very twisty road that is a 9% grade.. no problem; I even managed to get the Kadron carbs balanced.
So don't go and try to scare the poor guy to death with all this sky will fall if you don't stuff... let him jump in and enjoy the Speedster experience
Tpny
Kirk did a great job on my car, yea the paint is not as I would have liked it, but he did get me a car to Alaska in less than four weeks, and has thrown in quite a few options at no charge. I even got my rear disc kit from him, I had it installed up here, for $300 less than I found it anywhere else... the car has 700 mi on it, has gone 90mph (I'm breaking it in) and handles very well, a few paint sags are no problem to me.... I live 2.5 mi up a very twisty road that is a 9% grade.. no problem; I even managed to get the Kadron carbs balanced.
So don't go and try to scare the poor guy to death with all this sky will fall if you don't stuff... let him jump in and enjoy the Speedster experience
Tpny
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You can't say anything about Mfrs but people are fair game? Have you read anything here? VS gets bashed, other builders get bashed, even newbies get bashed.
It's not a bad thing to have opinions....and the trick on a board like this (and others that I have spent a LOT of time on) is to get the good info (endorsements or condemnations) - and make your own decisions.
I think the Suburu is a slick set up.........but not having the backseat is a deal-breaker for me. Let's face it, there are advantages either way....and drawbacks too.
Don't get your nose out of joint.....it's not like he talked about yer mama bro!
It's not a bad thing to have opinions....and the trick on a board like this (and others that I have spent a LOT of time on) is to get the good info (endorsements or condemnations) - and make your own decisions.
I think the Suburu is a slick set up.........but not having the backseat is a deal-breaker for me. Let's face it, there are advantages either way....and drawbacks too.
Don't get your nose out of joint.....it's not like he talked about yer mama bro!
Jim:
1 - 3 are OK
4. Engle 110 or 120 Camshaft with Norris racing Lifters.
*****go with the 120 - MUCH better mid-range grunt...Torque comes on at 1800 and stays strong through 6K+ but the 2500 - 3500 torque is amazing
6. Re-surfaced Flywheel
***** Lightened??
7. Gene Berg Chromoly racing Gland nut (torque to 550lbs)
***** Why bother with that much torque?? It won't fall off with 300 - 325 lbs., but, whatever...
8. 8mm chromoly head studs (made for Chico performance only)
*****Yeah, but C.B. sells 'em, and so does Berg - (Where's the beef? unless they're the "stretching", one-use kind)
10. NEW 041 heads with 40 x 35.5 stainless steel valves Dual high rev springs with mini D.PORTS
********delete the dual HD springs - they rev higher, but several have found that they wear the cam lobes right off in a few thou. miles
13. Stainless steel windage push rod tubes.
******????? If they mean just S/S pushrod tubes, then fine.
14. Bolt on aluminum valve covers.
****** OK, but not as good as stock GERMAN (NOT aftermarket) with stock bales
15. Perfect fit Chrome sheet metal or black (Power coating ADD 150.00)
***** Do as you like - $150 for powder coat tins is average.
16. 30mm H.D oil pump modifed for full flow with oil filter base and oil filter
***** No engine builder will recommend a filter adapter as part of the oil pump cover - too much by-pass within the pump with the filter's natural resistance. Better to go with a blocked output pump on a full flow tapped case.
17. New Dual 40mm Weber kit.
****** good size for that engine - get the best air cleaner mounts you can, with K&N filters
18. New Alternator,or Generator (your choice)
***** Go with the alternator (85 amp if they offer it)
20. Kennedy Stage 1 Pressure plate with Dankin Racing disk.
***** Delete the racing disk if it is a four-puck style - they are binary in power application - either all grab or all off - REALLY hard to drive in stop-and-go driving after they heat up.
24. 8.5 to 1 compression unless you need more.
***** keep it at 8.5 to 1 - higher means more heat to dissipate
25. Rancho Performance Prostreet Plus trans with 4.12 R/P and welded 3rd and 4th hubs with steel shift forks,harden keys, super diff and aluminum side cover with .082 fourth (swing or I.R.S)
*******
That's a high-reving-per-gear set up, more for between-the-lights street racing than for touring. I bet there'll be a BIG gap between 3rd and 4th, too. Stock 4'th is a .885 and stock R/P is a 3:88 - combining them gives good shift points and good revs at turnpike speeds. I would have to do more math on the combos they mention, but they sound a little rev-y to me.....If you want to win in streetlight races, however, what they're offering is the one for you, but I I'm wondering about that big 3'rd to 4'th gap.
1914 turnkey package 4750.00 Outright
****** sounds competitive
NOTE: Go with the 3.88, right?
...........
Option 2,344 (yes, it seems there are at least that many options).
Roland works for Kirk and apparently has a strong 1915cc engine that has all the goodies (will get a build list) and Kirk is willing to put in a cooling system to keep it drive-able.
******** Sounds like a deal....
So, tell me about the cooling systems.
***** Easy: full-flow oiling through a 16-pass Derale cooler located in the left rear wheel well with a thermostatic switch set for 180 F.
Use ONLY real German cooling tins from a 1971 - 1973 vintage VW with either a T-1 cooling tower from that year, or a T4 (the fan shroud will need to be modified to accept it). Keep ALL of the moveable air foils within the fan shroud, and keep the thermostat to actuate them. Run GERMAN lower shroud pieces (those below the heads) that direct the air out toward the back. Just as important is the exhaust system, but the one they're offering, or equivalent, is fine.
How's that??
1 - 3 are OK
4. Engle 110 or 120 Camshaft with Norris racing Lifters.
*****go with the 120 - MUCH better mid-range grunt...Torque comes on at 1800 and stays strong through 6K+ but the 2500 - 3500 torque is amazing
6. Re-surfaced Flywheel
***** Lightened??
7. Gene Berg Chromoly racing Gland nut (torque to 550lbs)
***** Why bother with that much torque?? It won't fall off with 300 - 325 lbs., but, whatever...
8. 8mm chromoly head studs (made for Chico performance only)
*****Yeah, but C.B. sells 'em, and so does Berg - (Where's the beef? unless they're the "stretching", one-use kind)
10. NEW 041 heads with 40 x 35.5 stainless steel valves Dual high rev springs with mini D.PORTS
********delete the dual HD springs - they rev higher, but several have found that they wear the cam lobes right off in a few thou. miles
13. Stainless steel windage push rod tubes.
******????? If they mean just S/S pushrod tubes, then fine.
14. Bolt on aluminum valve covers.
****** OK, but not as good as stock GERMAN (NOT aftermarket) with stock bales
15. Perfect fit Chrome sheet metal or black (Power coating ADD 150.00)
***** Do as you like - $150 for powder coat tins is average.
16. 30mm H.D oil pump modifed for full flow with oil filter base and oil filter
***** No engine builder will recommend a filter adapter as part of the oil pump cover - too much by-pass within the pump with the filter's natural resistance. Better to go with a blocked output pump on a full flow tapped case.
17. New Dual 40mm Weber kit.
****** good size for that engine - get the best air cleaner mounts you can, with K&N filters
18. New Alternator,or Generator (your choice)
***** Go with the alternator (85 amp if they offer it)
20. Kennedy Stage 1 Pressure plate with Dankin Racing disk.
***** Delete the racing disk if it is a four-puck style - they are binary in power application - either all grab or all off - REALLY hard to drive in stop-and-go driving after they heat up.
24. 8.5 to 1 compression unless you need more.
***** keep it at 8.5 to 1 - higher means more heat to dissipate
25. Rancho Performance Prostreet Plus trans with 4.12 R/P and welded 3rd and 4th hubs with steel shift forks,harden keys, super diff and aluminum side cover with .082 fourth (swing or I.R.S)
*******
That's a high-reving-per-gear set up, more for between-the-lights street racing than for touring. I bet there'll be a BIG gap between 3rd and 4th, too. Stock 4'th is a .885 and stock R/P is a 3:88 - combining them gives good shift points and good revs at turnpike speeds. I would have to do more math on the combos they mention, but they sound a little rev-y to me.....If you want to win in streetlight races, however, what they're offering is the one for you, but I I'm wondering about that big 3'rd to 4'th gap.
1914 turnkey package 4750.00 Outright
****** sounds competitive
NOTE: Go with the 3.88, right?
...........
Option 2,344 (yes, it seems there are at least that many options).
Roland works for Kirk and apparently has a strong 1915cc engine that has all the goodies (will get a build list) and Kirk is willing to put in a cooling system to keep it drive-able.
******** Sounds like a deal....
So, tell me about the cooling systems.
***** Easy: full-flow oiling through a 16-pass Derale cooler located in the left rear wheel well with a thermostatic switch set for 180 F.
Use ONLY real German cooling tins from a 1971 - 1973 vintage VW with either a T-1 cooling tower from that year, or a T4 (the fan shroud will need to be modified to accept it). Keep ALL of the moveable air foils within the fan shroud, and keep the thermostat to actuate them. Run GERMAN lower shroud pieces (those below the heads) that direct the air out toward the back. Just as important is the exhaust system, but the one they're offering, or equivalent, is fine.
How's that??
Gordon,
Spot on man! I just talked to Kirk. He has a motor that has been past break in and is an upgrade in the HP department, it gets a warranty (very good), will make the deadline and be installed by VS (very good), and will have the external oil coolers with thermotstat fans, etc...
It's not the full-on motor that I suppose I could get...but it's a step up for sure......and very importantly one that has a better chance for longevity by paying attention to cooling - and not just Torque and HP. My guess is that I'll be rolling my own grunt monster in the future....cause building the bug motors sounds like fun once you have a little experience with the car under your belt.
Thanks.......
Now I guess I can get back to enjoying the thought of driving a really cool go-kart with a bitchen paint-job again! LOL!
Heres a picture of the car (same except the motor upgrades for the most part...and A/C).
ebay Item # 4557428510 .... also having the bee hives tail-lights done..
Spot on man! I just talked to Kirk. He has a motor that has been past break in and is an upgrade in the HP department, it gets a warranty (very good), will make the deadline and be installed by VS (very good), and will have the external oil coolers with thermotstat fans, etc...
It's not the full-on motor that I suppose I could get...but it's a step up for sure......and very importantly one that has a better chance for longevity by paying attention to cooling - and not just Torque and HP. My guess is that I'll be rolling my own grunt monster in the future....cause building the bug motors sounds like fun once you have a little experience with the car under your belt.
Thanks.......
Now I guess I can get back to enjoying the thought of driving a really cool go-kart with a bitchen paint-job again! LOL!
Heres a picture of the car (same except the motor upgrades for the most part...and A/C).
ebay Item # 4557428510 .... also having the bee hives tail-lights done..
Jim:
If you want it to handle like a Go-Kart, then have Kirk mount 19mm sway bars front and rear. He usually mounts a stock Bug sedan sway bar upside down in the front (has to be upside down, as the front end is a lot lower than a sedan). That's OK, but somewhat soft on the cornering and it lifts a lot. Run those 19mm's (about 3/4" front and rear) and it'll corner flat, like it's on rails (although your ride will get noticeably stiffer).
Nice wheels on that car on Ebay - Those Porsche numbers or something else with a Porsche center cap?
Your car looks similar to mine ;>)
If you want it to handle like a Go-Kart, then have Kirk mount 19mm sway bars front and rear. He usually mounts a stock Bug sedan sway bar upside down in the front (has to be upside down, as the front end is a lot lower than a sedan). That's OK, but somewhat soft on the cornering and it lifts a lot. Run those 19mm's (about 3/4" front and rear) and it'll corner flat, like it's on rails (although your ride will get noticeably stiffer).
Nice wheels on that car on Ebay - Those Porsche numbers or something else with a Porsche center cap?
Your car looks similar to mine ;>)
I guess Gordon could be right...maybe.
Jerome
Jerome
My VS didn't come with a sway bar from the shop...period. I had to install a 19 mm Bugpack unit with urethane bushings but had to modify the front bumper brackets. Without a front sway bar the front of the car seemed to take off at speed; not a good feeling. Everything stabilized after installing the sway bar and getting the front end aligned.
***The certain views of one Alaska resident don't necessarily reflect on the other Alaskan resident to whom lives on this here site*** Although the other Alaskan resident may have let the other Alaskan resident drive his VS today
Hey....I'm a Socialist. and i used to drive a Subaru...and I had ALL your Mamas. And I still say, "go buy a new convertible from any Manufacturer (not a reassembler) and buy a die cast Speedster".
Feel free to tee-off.
Feel free to tee-off.
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Hey.. Vince has the perfect maintenance-free Speedster.
Damn! Vince's Neighbors have HUGE yard plants!!
Hey Vince,
I'll swap ya a pair of new Birkenstocks for that die cast speedster..
Tony
I'll swap ya a pair of new Birkenstocks for that die cast speedster..
Tony
Damn this is a great site, just look at all the info this guy Jim Guffin has acquired and there is still no happy face on his posts.
Hey Motor Head, throw $36 at the site, I bet you got 36 hundred worth of info the thread.
Get a calendar while you are at it.
I'm going to wait until I see a happy face before I give my opinion on large sumps.
Rant, rant, I'm going out to the garage, fire up the speedster and test my new $70 dollar Compu-fire electronic ignition. Vroom, vroom, no points or condensor.
Hey Motor Head, throw $36 at the site, I bet you got 36 hundred worth of info the thread.
Get a calendar while you are at it.
I'm going to wait until I see a happy face before I give my opinion on large sumps.
Rant, rant, I'm going out to the garage, fire up the speedster and test my new $70 dollar Compu-fire electronic ignition. Vroom, vroom, no points or condensor.
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Gordon, I'm just livin large.....
Tony, thanks for the offer to trade for shoes, but what I really need is a diecast 1/18 scale of a 912......got one of those hiding in your hush puppies?????
Michael, I agree, we have given Jim way to much input.....if it wasen't for us, he'd be cruising in that Boyd-mobile, looking cooler than any one of us......
Tony, thanks for the offer to trade for shoes, but what I really need is a diecast 1/18 scale of a 912......got one of those hiding in your hush puppies?????
Michael, I agree, we have given Jim way to much input.....if it wasen't for us, he'd be cruising in that Boyd-mobile, looking cooler than any one of us......
Wow what an intense thread!
Anyway Jim, Gordon is right on with his grocery list of do's and dont's. I honestly feel that a 1915 engine is a great combo but don't have to A/C knowledge and or experience to tell you if this size engine is enough for the A/C and still retain the right HP to the wheels to instill a perm-grin on your face.
The 1915 engines that I have done for my own personal use have not imploded or the like, Knock on wood....
Hence the reasoning behind my backing a 1915cc engine.
Stay away from the puppy mill motor builders that list on ebay from cheap money becaue that's all you'l get is "cheap"
Do talk to Scat, CB the other well established Type 1 builders and get their opinions......
Do it right so that we'll see you at Carlisle '06!!
Alan
Anyway Jim, Gordon is right on with his grocery list of do's and dont's. I honestly feel that a 1915 engine is a great combo but don't have to A/C knowledge and or experience to tell you if this size engine is enough for the A/C and still retain the right HP to the wheels to instill a perm-grin on your face.
The 1915 engines that I have done for my own personal use have not imploded or the like, Knock on wood....
Hence the reasoning behind my backing a 1915cc engine.
Stay away from the puppy mill motor builders that list on ebay from cheap money becaue that's all you'l get is "cheap"
Do talk to Scat, CB the other well established Type 1 builders and get their opinions......
Do it right so that we'll see you at Carlisle '06!!
Alan
Yeah, and an extra 1-1/2 qt. Sump is fine - spring for the one from Berg. The quality is excellent, and it won't leak (as most of the Asian knock-offs do).
gn
Still Crusty (from the wind and the salt while sailing today), and Still an old Coot from Rhode Island
gn
Still Crusty (from the wind and the salt while sailing today), and Still an old Coot from Rhode Island
When they mount a thermostat driven electric fan for the additional coolers, two questions:
1. Where exactly is the best place to mount the cooler?
2. Where do you blow the fan (in the engine compartment so that the hot air enters the motor or through a hole to blow it out)?
1. Where exactly is the best place to mount the cooler?
2. Where do you blow the fan (in the engine compartment so that the hot air enters the motor or through a hole to blow it out)?
Jim,
1) Some guys put the coolers over the transaxle, some put them in the front of the car, but most put them in the driver's side fender well behind the tire. The advantage is that the lines are short, the disadvantage is obvious. Don't put it in the engine compartment.
2) See above- if it's not in the engine compartment, it doesn't matter...
1) Some guys put the coolers over the transaxle, some put them in the front of the car, but most put them in the driver's side fender well behind the tire. The advantage is that the lines are short, the disadvantage is obvious. Don't put it in the engine compartment.
2) See above- if it's not in the engine compartment, it doesn't matter...
Seems to me that running long lines and up to the front of the car makes most sense.
Long lines = more volume + more surface ares + better air flow
any thoughts?
Long lines = more volume + more surface ares + better air flow
any thoughts?
Need some help again........
Can you private email me and estimate what this car SHOULD be costing me?
jimfins@bellsouth.net
Thanks.
Can you private email me and estimate what this car SHOULD be costing me?
jimfins@bellsouth.net
Thanks.
"Seems to me that running long lines and up to the front of the car makes most sense.
Long lines = more volume + more surface ares + better air flow
any thoughts?"
Wrong!
MB
Long lines = more volume + more surface ares + better air flow
any thoughts?"
Wrong!
MB
To elaborate:
Oil is picked up in the sump by the oil pump, where it is pumped out to the filter and cooler, then back to the engine. If your lines are long, that's a long time to wait before the oil gets to the bearings on start up. In addition, the whole "more oil means better cooling" thing is a misconception. Increased volume only means that the oil takes longer to heat up- you still have to reject the heat sometime. Oil is just a heat sink- a higher volume of oil simply takes longer to heat up, but it also holds a higher amount of heat. You have to get rid of the heat with a cooler- the cooling effect of the lines and sump are minimal. Also, oil lines create a pressure drop- long lines equal significant pressure loss. This is bad, since you need every bit you can get at idle. You could reduce the pressure drop by putting in big lines, but what are you going to do with all that oil when the engine is shut off? In a wet sump system, it's going to drain to the lowest point, possibly creating windage under certain situations.
Long lines are just a bad idea unless you are running a dry sump and reservoir, or at least an Accusump system.
I'd put it in the fenderwell.
Oil is picked up in the sump by the oil pump, where it is pumped out to the filter and cooler, then back to the engine. If your lines are long, that's a long time to wait before the oil gets to the bearings on start up. In addition, the whole "more oil means better cooling" thing is a misconception. Increased volume only means that the oil takes longer to heat up- you still have to reject the heat sometime. Oil is just a heat sink- a higher volume of oil simply takes longer to heat up, but it also holds a higher amount of heat. You have to get rid of the heat with a cooler- the cooling effect of the lines and sump are minimal. Also, oil lines create a pressure drop- long lines equal significant pressure loss. This is bad, since you need every bit you can get at idle. You could reduce the pressure drop by putting in big lines, but what are you going to do with all that oil when the engine is shut off? In a wet sump system, it's going to drain to the lowest point, possibly creating windage under certain situations.
Long lines are just a bad idea unless you are running a dry sump and reservoir, or at least an Accusump system.
I'd put it in the fenderwell.
Stan..all valid points for sure. I had thought of inquirring about the oil pump configuration if we were going to add an external cooler, but was unaware if the engine or cooler got the first shot coming from the pump (would work better if the cooler and filter was post-pump but almost impossible and still drawbacks I know).
My recollection of hte conversation is that the cooler will be put in the engine bay or wheel well (well is obviously better), but in the engine compartment it would seem to generate heat that would be drawn to to intake. Also, an exhaust hole for the hot air would also allow heat to come UP when the fan was not running.
That's why I'm here guys.....to learn
If anybody has time to call, I have a couple of VS questions. I turn in my final build sheet tomorrow - if you bought recently or know a LOT about VS...please call
Jim
770-205-8197 thanks...
My recollection of hte conversation is that the cooler will be put in the engine bay or wheel well (well is obviously better), but in the engine compartment it would seem to generate heat that would be drawn to to intake. Also, an exhaust hole for the hot air would also allow heat to come UP when the fan was not running.
That's why I'm here guys.....to learn
If anybody has time to call, I have a couple of VS questions. I turn in my final build sheet tomorrow - if you bought recently or know a LOT about VS...please call
Jim
770-205-8197 thanks...
The left rear wheel well is the way to go. Mounting up over the transmission just doesn't provide enough air flow for optimal cooling. Mine is mounted as high in the wheel well as possible, while also being as far back as the body curve will allow for the height (there's a trade-off there). The fan pulls out through the cooler and exhausts heat into the wheel well, the heat never getting into the engine compartment.
The cooler body needs only 1/2" - 3/4" clearance to the body panel (provided by the mounting brackets), but you MUST run an electric fan to get the air efficiently pulled through the cooler.
As Stan points out, the cooler/filter hoses are kept short with this arrangement, the whole system adds about 3/4 of a quart (US), the oil is kept in this system when the oil is changed, and it doesn't drain down to the sump, as it is a "closed" system and vacuum keeps it all captive unless a hose is removed somewhere. All you have to do is make sure to fill the new filter with oil (both intake and output sides) before you spin it on when changing oil (which I've done on every car I've worked on for years, anyway). That's it.
gn
The cooler body needs only 1/2" - 3/4" clearance to the body panel (provided by the mounting brackets), but you MUST run an electric fan to get the air efficiently pulled through the cooler.
As Stan points out, the cooler/filter hoses are kept short with this arrangement, the whole system adds about 3/4 of a quart (US), the oil is kept in this system when the oil is changed, and it doesn't drain down to the sump, as it is a "closed" system and vacuum keeps it all captive unless a hose is removed somewhere. All you have to do is make sure to fill the new filter with oil (both intake and output sides) before you spin it on when changing oil (which I've done on every car I've worked on for years, anyway). That's it.
gn
From Stan:
In addition, the whole "more oil means better cooling" thing is a misconception.
Bingo - Listen to Stan
MB
In addition, the whole "more oil means better cooling" thing is a misconception.
Bingo - Listen to Stan
MB
Yup.....Stan is, once again, right on the money.
he wrote: "Oil is just a heat sink- a higher volume of oil simply takes longer to heat up, but it also holds a higher amount of heat."
Theromdynamics 101 teaches us that the oil would just be a transfer medium, taking the oil from somewhere where it absorbs heat, to somewhere else where it releases that heat.
The trick it to help the transfer medium (the oil) do it's job without interference, like line obstructions (curves), resistance (from the inside surface of longer hoses), mis-matched (smaller) connections or filter blockage.
Additionally, that transfer medium, especially if it's viscous, like oil, absorbs and releases changes in temperature relatively slowly, hence the need to move a lot of oil throughout the system all of the time. So if it absorbs slowly, it releases slowly, too, so you need a relatively BIG, efficient cooler to pull that heat out, so cooler oil goes back to the sump.
gn
he wrote: "Oil is just a heat sink- a higher volume of oil simply takes longer to heat up, but it also holds a higher amount of heat."
Theromdynamics 101 teaches us that the oil would just be a transfer medium, taking the oil from somewhere where it absorbs heat, to somewhere else where it releases that heat.
The trick it to help the transfer medium (the oil) do it's job without interference, like line obstructions (curves), resistance (from the inside surface of longer hoses), mis-matched (smaller) connections or filter blockage.
Additionally, that transfer medium, especially if it's viscous, like oil, absorbs and releases changes in temperature relatively slowly, hence the need to move a lot of oil throughout the system all of the time. So if it absorbs slowly, it releases slowly, too, so you need a relatively BIG, efficient cooler to pull that heat out, so cooler oil goes back to the sump.
gn
Gordon,
Another engine option....
2285cc turkey engine. Zero miles. 44 dual webbers. lightened flywheel. professionally built by local san diego mechanic who specializes in nothing but aircooled high performance engines. Just got off the phone with him and found that it has a forged scat counterweighted crank, balanced, forged pistons, Aluminum shroud, multiple crank case breathers, CNC'ed stock case, 2285cc's, big valve heads, 8.5:1, etc. I will get a full build-list tomorrow and try to post but this is what I know so far.
Based on your knowledge.....coupled with the 3:88 trany from VS, am I headed in a better direction? I am thinking of having somebody near VS do the install - or letting this guy do it in San Diego. If the engine looks like a winner I may try to go see this guy Wednesday night to feel the situation out.
What kind of HP do you think we're talking here?
This may be a bit of a trick to orchestrate, but it could be a good deal on a higher performance motor.
Another engine option....
2285cc turkey engine. Zero miles. 44 dual webbers. lightened flywheel. professionally built by local san diego mechanic who specializes in nothing but aircooled high performance engines. Just got off the phone with him and found that it has a forged scat counterweighted crank, balanced, forged pistons, Aluminum shroud, multiple crank case breathers, CNC'ed stock case, 2285cc's, big valve heads, 8.5:1, etc. I will get a full build-list tomorrow and try to post but this is what I know so far.
Based on your knowledge.....coupled with the 3:88 trany from VS, am I headed in a better direction? I am thinking of having somebody near VS do the install - or letting this guy do it in San Diego. If the engine looks like a winner I may try to go see this guy Wednesday night to feel the situation out.
What kind of HP do you think we're talking here?
This may be a bit of a trick to orchestrate, but it could be a good deal on a higher performance motor.
Depends on the cam Jim.
Ron
Ron
Ron's right - the Cam makes a HUGE difference. Some give far more power and torque near the top end, where you seldom run it in most driving situations. Something like a W86 or Engle 120 will give lots of mid-range "grunt", where you use it the most, as opposed to high end power above 4 grand where you seldom hold it for long.
A 2285 is beginning to meander into troublesome territory on a Type 1 case. Old GB had a bigger Type 1 than that, but he was using a new, custom case with increased strengthening in problem places. All of those parts and things you listed are all good go-fast parts, but they (and the engine size) also make a lot more heat, and we all know that heat is the death of Type 1 engines. You should also ask if the case has been strengthened near #3 cylinder, as that is a weak point with higher HP output on a Type 1 (and a lot of the buggy engine builders in SoCal do this).
I'm not familiar with the aluminum fan shroud, but I DO know that these engines are cooled best with 1971 - 1973 REAL GERMAN cooling systems to cool the heads (and the oil), PLUS a real good external oil cooler with fan assist. I know it sounds like I'm harping on these points, but they're proven and they work. Having said that, the SoCal Buggy engine builders have a lot of cooling tricks they use and should be listened to as well (some work well, and some don't). I'll bet serious money that many of them have LOTS more experience with aircooled engines in desert heat than any of us Speedster Owners have.
That engine, with the right Cam specs and the carbs set up right, IMHO should put out 160 - 170hp. The kind of HP that calls out to your right foot to be used a lot.
The plus side (after you figure out how to tame the excess heat problem) is that there'll be plenty of power for cruising with the A/C cranked ;>)
See what kind of a deal you can get, and to get Kirk to install it. Also ask Kirk if he knows and trusts the engine builder......it's a small world out there in SoCal.
But remember where you started all this.....you'll HAVE to take a few days to just putter around LA with it to properly break it in before you head East on the "Super Slab"....
gn
A 2285 is beginning to meander into troublesome territory on a Type 1 case. Old GB had a bigger Type 1 than that, but he was using a new, custom case with increased strengthening in problem places. All of those parts and things you listed are all good go-fast parts, but they (and the engine size) also make a lot more heat, and we all know that heat is the death of Type 1 engines. You should also ask if the case has been strengthened near #3 cylinder, as that is a weak point with higher HP output on a Type 1 (and a lot of the buggy engine builders in SoCal do this).
I'm not familiar with the aluminum fan shroud, but I DO know that these engines are cooled best with 1971 - 1973 REAL GERMAN cooling systems to cool the heads (and the oil), PLUS a real good external oil cooler with fan assist. I know it sounds like I'm harping on these points, but they're proven and they work. Having said that, the SoCal Buggy engine builders have a lot of cooling tricks they use and should be listened to as well (some work well, and some don't). I'll bet serious money that many of them have LOTS more experience with aircooled engines in desert heat than any of us Speedster Owners have.
That engine, with the right Cam specs and the carbs set up right, IMHO should put out 160 - 170hp. The kind of HP that calls out to your right foot to be used a lot.
The plus side (after you figure out how to tame the excess heat problem) is that there'll be plenty of power for cruising with the A/C cranked ;>)
See what kind of a deal you can get, and to get Kirk to install it. Also ask Kirk if he knows and trusts the engine builder......it's a small world out there in SoCal.
But remember where you started all this.....you'll HAVE to take a few days to just putter around LA with it to properly break it in before you head East on the "Super Slab"....
gn
Jim; as John said go with the stock OEM valve covers they seal better with less hassle and they're recommended by some of the more knowledgeable VW folks. That combo you mentioned sounds really good; just make sure you get the internals all balanced and try to get the engine built with a compression ratio of around 6.6 to 1 to lower your operating temperatures and enable you to use regular pump gas instead of premium. If you go with 3.88 go with the .089 fourth otherwise the drop in revs from 3rd to fourth will be very dramatic.
Jim, never heard of a 2285 - what's the bore/stroke on this?