I Think I Done Broke It

Has the pin just pushed out of 1 side or is it broken.  There is a kit that include the pin and return springs. It could be the hook /loop on other end too.  Just that shaft is available too.

 

Yeah, that pin looks like it pulled out a bit.

Mine uses a simple 10mm nut and bolt. Maybe pull the pin all the way and slide the clutch pedal arm off and see what's up. Could be a simple fix.

Thanks Guys,

Yeah, I think the pedal cracked at the pin hole and has been weakening.  I gotta find a way to get that pin out without taking the whole assembly out, slide on a new pedal and do something like Ted did with a small nut and bolt.  I have a feeling I'm going to have to go at that sucker with a dremel, a drill etc and dislodge the pin, make the hole a little bigger and go Ted's route.  I like that idea ver much.  I'd like to go the Big Foot spaced out route but not right now. 

Crazy coincidence... I just went to get chicken for the bbq and my clutch quit working. I think the clutch cable broke. I felt a pop when I pushed the pedal to the floor.

I had to start it in first and limp home 4 miles in 1st gear.

Ted...you're allowed to shift into higher gears if you're careful and get the timing / snyc right...no clutch required if you're careful. Try it sometime when you get things  fixed up. I've done it to help friends many times. Don't downshift ever...get into neutral when needing to stop and start again if first. Loop in and out of shopping centers etc. when needing time for red lights if available etc.

Geez Ted.  I hope I didn't start something.  Could the cable have come off the hook or do you think it snapped?  I was a few blocks away when mine didn't return from the floor all the way and stayed in second but its a sucky feeling. 

 

It is WAY easier to just remove the whole pedal cluster (2 bolts) and work on it on a bench.  you'll have to drive that pin out with a hammer and punch.

 

Gordon:  I thought you might say that.

Is this about the clutch cable breaking or about the accelerator pedal failing?  Not clear to me.

 

Thanks.

Clutch pedal failing Jack.  Ted also had his cable break after he replied to this thread.

'Nuther good reason to remove the cluster, is that you can closely inspect the hook (inside) end of the clutch shaft to see if it is overly worn or if the shaft needs replacing........Ya never know.

Mine has a little bit of spring in it but when I push the pedal to the floor it doesn't engage the clutch. I did crawl under the car and check the cable at the clutch end.  It's still securely attached. My guess is that maybe I broke a few strands on the cable which allowed the cable to 'stretch' or something. Who knows.

 

I'll need to pull the cluster and see what's going on.

 

Is it cheaper to buy a shortened cable or simply shorten it with a few u bolts?

 

Rats!

 

Ted

I tried to get it out of first once I was up to speed but no dice. The 3.88 r&p and the gradual slope from the valley floor (where the cable broke) up the hill to my house wouldn't allow for enough freewheeling to get it out of gear.  

 

I'll get 'er torn down today and see what I'm up against.

 

Ted

Yup.  Just pulled my cluster. Not too bad but i did hear a clunk.  It was the clutch cable pulling off the hook that allowed the cluster to come out. Now how the heck do I get that thing back again?  I'm guessing I have to disconnect the cable from the transmission to get enough play to hook her up again....thats after I order a new pedal.

Ted:  Do you have an access panel in the vertical part of your rear seating area that will allow you to get at the top of the tranny?  Someone cut a hole there and covered it with plexiglass that allows me to get right there without going underneath. 

Frank that is correct and after you hook the cable wire the pedal vertical to the column to keep it from flopping forward and disconnection because if it does you will utter cuss words that you never knew :~)

Cable was frayed pretty badly right at the hook end. Only 5 cables were left. Taped up a string on the end and pulled it through. Now I have a pull string to help feed the new cable.

Need to get it back on the road by the 6th.

Ted

Thanks Alan.  I would not have thought of that but would have had it flop off and uttered...hell... made up some new words to yell at it.  

 

How much slack does the cable need so that I can get it re-hooked? Maybe I can just loosen the wing nut and let the cable slide forwards enough and just mark how much was sticking out to the rear beyond the wing nut adjustment?

 

My pedal tore at the pin location and bent back such that it did not return all the way. That little set pin was quite stout and required a fair amount of hammering to loosen it then I had to bend the pedal to break it, put it in a vise and get some big water pump pliers on it to get it to rotate off the shaft that it has been welded to all these years.  I really wanted to avoid taking the cluster out but now way was that coming off without going to the bench and getting whacked..

 

Remove wing nut at clutch arm and remove Bowden tube (13mm) from trans case, pull the cable forward and out of the Bowden tube and tunnel being careful not to get old grease on the carpet etc.

With fresh grease on your thumb and index fingers, feed it into the tunnel tube greasing it as you do leaving a few inches hanging out the tunnel. Hook cable over the pedal shaft, insert it into the tunnel, then wire the clutch pedal upright to the column. Thread in the two 15mm head bolts  (good luck with the blind forward bolt) Pass the threaded end through the loose Bowden tube and bolt that to the trans case leaving a decent slack bent of 1" - 1.25" ,

Pull the clutch arm forward to begin to thread the wing nut part way on and remove the temp pedal wire you installed then adjust until you have about 5/16" top pedal play. ...  Beer time

Did not someone say it was cool to wrap a rubber band around the hook from the pedal and the clutch cable fitting to keep them together as you mess with the bolts on the pedal assembly?

 

I remember hearing of that trick right after I did mine.

That's one and another is a few wraps of electrical tape, but then you can't have grease that is needed on the pedal shaft hook...my wire from the pedal to the column always works

I also hold the pedal to the column, but I use a loose bungee cord.  

 

Same effect.  You want to have something holding the pedal in place to keep the cable loop from popping off of it's hook.  I also use another bungee to pull on the transaxle end of the cable to keep everything taught until it's all re-assembled.

 

Make sure you have the brake pedal return spring in the right position before you put the cluster back in or you'll be pulling it right back out to re-position that friggin spring.

 

When inserting the "blind" pedal mounting bolt, I find it better to just close both eyes and keep trying to thread it on with a short socket on a 6" extension (figured that was fair, given the "blind" bolt).  Cussing here seems to help.  So does a break after a while for a nice, hot tea.  Put the rear bolt on first to at least get the cluster half lined up...That seems to reduce the cussing.

 

I find it easier to get both bolts going and only, say, one turn of the threads in, then move the cluster slightly to allow the brake push rod to move past and into the master cylinder socket, then push the push rod loop onto the brake pedal arm stud, then put the spring back on (I use a pair of needle-nose Vice Grips).

 

I truly gave up on the rubber band around the hook - I could never make it work right - and never used the tape trick.  Like Alan, my process works with no cussing (well, almost none....)

 

Don't forget to glop some grease on the hook and loop......